Greetings,
I just bought a 65, both elec and a kicker...
Starts ok with the elec but that just isn't much fun is it?
So, I was kicking it the other day with an older buddy and he freaked out...seems I could be in for a jolt if I get this one wrong...
On other motors I have compression releases, obviously the big T doesn't...
so friends is there a TDC I should look for before I kick or a compression stroke I need to feel with the kicker before I go into it?
Any hints would help...I do know as with any older motor they have personalities...this one's personality seems to be electrifying, electrifying the starter motor!
-rg
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I've always found that electric start bikes are tough to start with a kicker. Maybe it's due to extra drag at the primary chain tensioner because it'son the drive side of the chain while trying to turn over the engine through the transmissionas opposed to the tensioner being on the slack side of the chain when the engine is running and driving the transmission. Actually, with the exception of the '66 (which came set up with a kicker and a button), I've removed added kickers from my '72 FL and the '76 FX (since sold). No kicker gives you more options in exhaust pipe selection too. Pipes for non kicker bikes tuck in higher and look better I think.
Back to your thing. You're going to have to learn to feel your engine's compression strokes before you mess up your knee.To kick startmy '52 cold I open the fuel petcock, wait a moment for the fuel to flow, pump the throttle3 or 4 times, close the choke and kick it over a couple of times to draw the fuel/air into the engine. I'll bring it up onto the compression stroke, THEN I turn on the ignition switch and give her a healthy kick. Starts every time,play with the choke a little til it runs smooth.The fuel MUST be fresh to kick start I've found.Last years stale gas just won't vaporize. Drain the fuel bowl, drain your tank, get rid of it.
When the bike is hot, DO NOT pump the throttle. Kick it through once or twice and bring it up on thecompression strokewith the kicker, turn on the ignition and give it a healthy kick. Again, itwakes up every time.
Your machine may like a different technique. Nice to have the button as a back-up.
after it kicks back on you a few dozen times,you will know how your bike starts.my old bike starts by third kick if gas is turned on.still running linkert carb.44 years old and still working.i turn gas on,turn back spark on left grip,put choke on,get on compression stroke,{you will feel in in the kicker pedal},kick once,get on compression stoke again,kick again,with choke still on,get on compression third time,turn on ignition,romp down on the kicker.if motor starts,reach over and turn off choke.roll back spark advance.hope this helps.
What I do is prime er 3 times ( ignition of, gas on and choked) Turn ignition on, get slightly past the compression stroke and give hell. But thats how I do for my Evo. Starts on second kick. I haven't kicked a pan in a couple years. Hope this helps.
HaHa you have a learnin curve comin on,first what carb?next ,how many times does it turn over before it starts with the button?7-8times, it needs a tune up.What do you do to start it cold,do the same thing.Dont give up,you have the best combo.When you hit the button and only get click! if you have a glimmer of light in the headlight it,ll run,just kick an go.
I had an old pan, kick only with a zenith bendix carb. This is what worked for me.
Make sure gas is on and bike off then....
1) full choke it
2) twist throttle 3-4-5 times
3) then kick it thru 3-4 times as discribed by JohnB445
4) unchoke it
5) turn in "On"
6) kick thru to the compression point then swing thru with one good meaningful kick
7) repeat
If everything was in order, (points/gap/condenser/etc..) it would start
__________________
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Well...there is pretty much no chance of me kicking this bike to start AS IS.....here's why
I have the SUPER E carb on the '65 now. We should go back a few steps...I am at 8000' above sea level! I have gone back to basics here as I need to jet and adjust the carb. Lots of blueing and fouled/misfiring plugs. Plus a hesitant start.
I am told S&S has a link to jetting for altitude...if I find it I will post is here...
latron
-russ
__________________
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timberman, find the Feb issue of American Iron Mag. On page 32 there is a GREAT article on how to tune the E and G S&S's. Hopefully that will get you tuned in. Then come back here, and reread the previous posts. Keep in mind, your pan is your pan, and will not only have a mind of its own, but also a starting procedure of its own. I know guys with CV's, Keihns, Bendix's, you name it. But if you go to the drag strip, check to see what they are running. There's a reason why. They work, and work well and are very tuneable. They run S&S. They have been around for eons and work well. Check around, you undoubtedly will run into an indy who has about all the spare jets lying around that you will ever need, and they will help you. At least up here we/they do. In at least one of the "Remember when" threads, I made the comment, I remember the first Harley I saw with electric start. Now, it is amazing how many ppl gather 'round when they see you go out to kick start a pan or shovel. My 78FLH has both elec and kick. Timing is CRITICAL to kicking. Get the carb dialed in using the elec, and then dial in the timing. I am an on the side kicker as mentioned by John. I also make DAMMED sure the ratchet is engaged solidly B4 the "BIG' heave-ho kick. If you get a li'l hurried, and it is not engaged solidly, you hypre-extend your knee, and will eventually lead to "sportster knee", not good, and WAY worse than tennis elbow.
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I think you have a tillotson carb on that 65 so it has an accellerator pump, you can pump it a couple of times to get gas in the manifold and then kck it once to draw the gas in the cylinders. My 48 had the original Linkert. With that I did the following; (cold)Full choke, full open throttle, ignition off, kick twice; Then, Full spark advance on the left handlebar; Choke moved back to 1/4 (on first click on the choke lever); still full throttle; slowly move the kick lever till you feel the top compression stroke (it'll be the hardest feeling one), turn on the igniton and give her. My 48 would start in 40 degree weather like that, with 6 volts and stock points, but it was in tune. Yours has to be right on if you wanna start it with a kicker. One beer in a bar "hot"; just turn on the fuel (always shut it off when parking) and kick it once, should be running. Sitting in the bar for a while trying to shmooze a couple of hotties for a while/ Well now heres where it gets a little dicey. I kicked it through with the thottle open and 1/4 choke Full retard on the timing, then turn on the ignition and sometimes it would start on the first or second kick. Better to chat with the hunnys for a while (they don't know the real reason your talking to them is you're waiting for your pan to cool off, not that you may or may not be intrested in them) after it cools off it's easyer to start and as you wave the hunnys goodbye; you look like prince as you just flick the key on , retard the timing and one kick and you ride off into the sunset. "What a guy" they think. Of coarse your driving off thinking "whew, glad i waited".
Kickstarting hints please!
I know guys with CV's, Keihns, Bendix's, you name it. But if you go to the drag strip, check to see what they are running. There's a reason why. They work, and work well and are very tuneable. They run S&S. They have been around for eons and work well. Check around, you undoubtedly will run into an indy who has about all the spare jets lying around that you will ever need, and they will help you. At least up here we/they do. In at least one of the "Remember when" threads, I made the comment, I remember the first Harley I saw with electric start. Now, it is amazing how many ppl gather 'round when they see you go out to kick start a pan or shovel. My 78FLH has both elec and kick. Timing is CRITICAL to kicking. Get the carb dialed in using the elec, and then dial in the timing. I am an on the side kicker as mentioned by John. I also make DAMMED sure the ratchet is engaged solidly B4 the "BIG' heave-ho kick. If you get a li'l hurried, and it is not engaged solidly, you hypre-extend your knee, and will eventually lead to "sportster knee", not good, and WAY worse than tennis elbow. 
