Hey guys, I'm new here & new to shovelheads. I just picked up a 74 FLH thats been parked for a few years in dry storage. I rewired it, put on a new coil & a new S&S carb and the bike runs great! The only problem I'm having is with the clutch, it seems to be slipping "ONLY" under "hard acceleration" My question is how hard is it to adjust? Like I said I'm new to shovelheads. I pulled off the clutch cover & it look pretty easy...locknut & a flathead screwdriver. Am I on the right track??? Or do you guys think I should just replace it all togeather?????? Any help would be great! Thanks.
I just got my first shovel a couple months ago.A 74 fxe.So I am new also,but I might be able to help.
Put the bike in nuetral,back off the locking nut(a good ways just to have working room),Tighten the adjusting screw.When the adj. screw starts to feel like it has "bottomed out" back it out a half a turn.Tighten the lock nut and you should be ready.
If I left something out or this is wrong I apologize,like I said I am still learnin myself.
Good luck
74shovel..This from the manual...a new clutch is assembled so that the distance from innner edge of spring collar to the surface of the outer disc is exactly 1-1/32 in. If the distance os 7/8 or less the clutch probably cannot be disengaged.
The manual also suggests adjusting the hand clutch control before messing with the stud nuts for the plates
Control cable sleeve should be adjusted to maintain about 1/4 in free hand lever movement before clutch starts to engage. If sleeve adjustment has been all taken up or there are indications of incoorrect clutch operations (slipping, gear clash or dragging) the following adjustments should be made in the order shown.
Move the end of lever on transmission forward until it becomes firm indicating alll the slack has been taken up.
Measure clearance between starter motor and clutch release lever which should be 3/8 to 5/8 inches. If not within this range, adjust as follows:
Loosen control coil adjusting sleeve locknut and turn adjusting sleeve all the way into bracket. Remove chain housing cover, loosen clutch pushrod screw locknut and turn screww in clockwise to remove lever to the rear, or outward (counterclockwise) to move the lever forward. When 1/2 in clearance between lever and starter motor has been attained. tighten locknut and reinstall chain housing cover.
Adjust clutch hand lever for 1/4 in free movement as described above.
more important than the locknut and cable freeplay is that the clutch is releasing evenly. after you set all of what was mentioned above......... do this....
when the 3 or 5 spring pressure nuts are adjuster to give 1 1/32 distance between the pressure plate and spring hold plate....... pull in the clutch lever and hold it in, now measure again. adjust the spring nuts (by tightening only!!) untill the distance is equal all the way around and check that the inner hub will spin by hand while holding the lever in.
Well, I adjusted it & took it for a ride. It's better but... still slipping under hard acceleration. I think it's time for a new clutch. I don't know the history of this motor, but it looks like theoriginal clutch. Thanks for all the info. Like I said.. I'm new to shovels so I'll probally have alotmore questions for you guys.
If the bike has been sitting for some time, remove the clutch plates and clean them, I would bet they are greased up pretty good, when you are putting it back together, check the spring free length.(the springs could be just worn out) my book says the spring adjustment should be at 31/32". be sure the adjuster screw is backed off well before adjusting the spring pressure. then turn itin until just touches the push rodand back off 1/2 turn. if it is stil slipping tighten the springs a 1/2 turn each,(up to a couple of turns)as long as there is no spring bind you should be ok.
If ya take out the clutch plates and they look like they still got material on them, just take them and a piece of sandpaper. Put the sandpaper on a mirror or something that is really flat and skuff the plates on both sides, dont sand them all the way down, just enought to even them out. Also if you are running a sealed primary, dont use oil. If you have primary fluid (heavy oil) in there, drain it out and replace it with just plain ol AFT red automatic transmission fluid. With the bike sittin up straight, bring the level up to just cover the teeth on the clutch basket. The lighter fluid will help with the clutches releasing and then ya can tell if that puddle is coming from the primary or the motor.
Just my 2 cents worth
Joker
__________________ "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "Holy crap...What a Ride!!"
Clutch Question???
