Deck Restore @ Home Depot.....just a suggestion.

 

i just wanted to make a suggestion for floor paint.

i just bought a 8.5X20 V-nose car hauler. my neighbor worked at Sherwin Williams so i asked him about painting the bare walls and floor. well what we did was primer the wall and use regular ext. white paint. then the had some epoxy paint that someone didn't want that was the right color for me. for $10 a gallon i got the 2 they had. well the first can was just paint. but in the second can i had them add "Shark Bite". man that stuff is amazing for grip. i have a total of $110 in paint cause i asked if they had missed match paint in the back. its also a great to get paint for any projects!!

 

I have one more question.. After I doing measurements and the math on the two baggers fitting within my 7 wide (81" is the inside dimension) The handle bars on one bike are 3 inches from the wall, the other bikes handle bars are 2 inches from the opposite wall (bikes are staggered so inside dimension don't matter on handle bars) and the hard saddle bags on the two bikes are 3 inches apart from each other. The question I have is it seems the 2-3 inches of clearance I have all the way around isn't enough. If tied down properly will the handlebars ever touch the wall? or the bags each other?

 

Checked out your PhotoBucket, impressive trailer and like your work.
What is the option for the flip out bed referred to? I have been in contact for pricing for a very similar trailer and thinking that could be a great option, its not listed..

Joe

 

I have a 7x14 and haul 2 baggers staggered. Honestly, remove all the d-rings and put E Track down. You wont be sorry. Money well spent. Then put wheel chocks centered between the etracks and and strap down. One last suggestion, with bike upright in wheel chock, place boards/blocks of wood under bike until they almost touch the frame then ratchet bike down snug onto the wood blocks and that baby ain't moving.

 

Bars no, fairing maybe if your not careful. I know because My fairing has a little rash were it was rubbing from big bumps, luckily I check at every gas stop and noticed. Unluckily I know have a couple scratches but Its not to bad, I was moving from FT Polk La back to NC.

 

I would not use Line-X on the ramp, or in side for that matter. Unless you add some grit to it, Line-X dries hard and will be slippery.

I have some on my trucks nerf bars and that stuff is a hard coating.

Here is a pic of my deluxe accommodations at Sturgis

 

I have a 7x14, and have hauled an '11 Road Glide and an '07 Ultra at the same time and a '14 Limited and a '14 Street Glide Special at the same time.

All fairings are an inch from the outside walls.

I strap the **** out of my bikes, usually 6 per bike, and they DO NOT MOVE.

Wish I had a pic, but sorry, I don't. in the chock, 2 straps from the trees to the front, straps from a sturdy member near the rear, (peg mount, floorboard mount, frame, etc) also pulling down and forward, then I always strap from the front of the frame back toward the rear on the floor, this adds insurance that they will not move side to side, and provides me piece of mind as the chock is not the only thing holding backward.

Another key for me: DO NOT USE CHEAP STRAPS!

I will not use the cam style straps. I only use higher quality rachets, never the el cheapos from wallyworld.

If I have over $50,000 worth of iron in the trailer, I can afford a couple hundred bucks for quality straps.

My 2 cents, YMMV.

 

A 6x12 V nose is perfect for 1 bike but an option I love on mine is it has 7' height at the back opening instead of the usual 6'. Mine is a Diamond Cargo built in southeast GA but I'm sure many other manufacturers have that available.

 

Sure area lot of talk about trailers thought we were supposed to ride them not give them a ride than again it is has turned into trailer week at Sturgis & Daytona!!!!!!!!!!