I put some info and pictures together to help others that may think changing fork oil is difficult. It's easy. Remove the key lock ***. watch video!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7-QBH1SFyzo
Remove swith cover and fork plugs on top of forks.
Remove plugs at bottom of forks and drain. See photos for easy way to remove drain plugs without striping them. Follow Iclicks insructions and your done. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ml#post3734005
This is a great site and I am glad to be a part of it. there is so much good information. People that are not much for doing their own wrenching should know there is a vast amount of good help on this site .

 

You don't really need to go through all the rigmarole of making a tool for the ignition. Just aim the forks straight, set the ignition switch to Lock (9 o'clock), and remove it. When you re-install it after the job you're doing just put it back in from the same orientation (Lock position) and all will work fine, or has for me in doing this multiple times. In fact, I just tried it one minute ago and everything works, including the fork lock. Basically, follow his procedure except don't lock the forks. One Harley tech who participates here removes it in the ACC position with forks pointing straight and says that works for him.

I'm not sure what the guy in the video is doing to cause his fork lock to fail when he removes the ignition switch when the forks aren't locked, but it might be because he's doing it in the OFF position. I'm not sure, but I just keep the forks in the same general position during the job I'm doing.

 

That is correct, the switch is the exact shape needed to turn the tumblers so why take it out and install a tool to do the same thing the switch is designed to do.

 

the idea is to show people that they can remove it and replace it without having issues trying to reinstall the ignition switch. As i did two years ago went into full panic trying to get the damb thing back on. Piece of cake now thanks to the video.I agree you don't need that fancy tool when you have the ignition to set it to where you want.

 

IMHO
I have found that having the forks straight and then turn the switch to lock and remove the switch assy. at that time...If the forks aren't locked then the removal of the lower fairing is a piece of cake...Then after the lower fairing is removed then drop the switch assy in place so you don't lose any of the alignment...Then do what ever you have to do with the ignition in the off mode so the forks don't lock while your in there...
FFT

 

rshwetz, Thanks for the key lock video!

 

You could use an impact screwdriver to get the screws out.

 

I would like to know more about OP's subject on changing the fork oil. Don't why all the comments about about the ignition switch.

 

What I don't understand is how the video guy managed to get the fork lock to fail. He pointed the switch **** at 12 o'clock (OFF), pulled the switch, then rotated the forks to the left lock and back. After he replaced the switch it wouldn't lock. I didn't try that on mine, but it seems odd. Maybe you shouldn't rotate the forks to the left lock while the switch **** is out.

 

I did a write-up on this procedure here. This is page 3 of the thread where I finally muster up the ***** to try what we had been talking about earlier. Scroll down to Post #23 for the procedure.

The discussion of the switch removal is because it is required for the job and can be tricky if you don't do it right.