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...We can argue all day and night. Let's just agree to disagree. I deal with this all the time with bikes on Ft Bragg. But you probably do too. And just like every wrench has different ways, I'm sure we do too.
Ride Safe, Mike
Thanks for the reply.
I would generally leave it if we simply disagreed on the method of getting from point A to point B.
But much of the info in this thread is just flat wrong. And that's where people get into trouble.
Someone is probably basing a decision on the info found here and in other threads. Posting and leaving bad info out there is not helping and could actually cause someone to damage a bike or worse.
I'll end it by saying...READERS BEWARE!
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Well...then you're saying Harley, Fuel Moto, The ThunderMax people and a number of professional dyno tuners...some of the best in the states are wrong. Cause that's where my info has come from. So...I'm wondering where you base your info on?
I have yet to have a system go down, a bike get sent to service, or a rider complain.
But I'll leave a dead horse lie. Enjoy your disparaging comments!
I would go along with the majority here and say that FM is probably the best bang for the buck, but be advised that if you ever have to take your bike to the dealer he is not going to know how to work on a PC V, or any other unit other than a SERT, or HD product and that's a fact. So from that perspective you might be better going with a SERT. I am in the same boat as you.
__________________ Keep your friends close, but your enemies closer.
I would go along with the majority here and say that FM is probably the best bang for the buck, but be advised that if you ever have to take your bike to the dealer he is not going to know how to work on a PC V, or any other unit other than a SERT, or HD product and that's a fact. So from that perspective you might be better going with a SERT. I am in the same boat as you.
Its not a fact...many dealers wil do a PC-V install and then send the bike to their Dynotuner...my dealer did...
Other dealers around the country may not honor the warranty after seeing the PC-V hooked-up, but thats another story...B
Dude, with all due respect: you just don't get it at all. Your Honda was lean when you added better flowing a/c and exhaust - hence the need for re-jetting. Just because you didn't know it doesn't make that fact untrue.
Not being critical or surly here but man, do some backround research on EFI (as well as carbs). This forum is a great source as well as Nightrider and a couple others. The info is there you need only to take advantage of it.
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Just smart enough to know how stupid I am.
Actually the opposite is true assuming you haven't intentionally changed the settings to run in open loop. If the AFR's were left alone, the percentage (with some exception) is more like 95% closed loop.
I don't believe the statement above is accurate. While I haven't seen a stock Harley map using my 2010 Pro SuperTuner, I can tell you that the Harley map I started with to tune my upgraded 2010 SEUC (included with the Pro Tuner software), was more like 60% open and 40% closed loop. Many of the other maps that come with the SuperTuner are similar in terms of the AFR cells that are not in closed loop.
Essentially all map cells in the range 750-3500rpms and 20-70KPa are closed loop. Once you get into manifolds pressures above 70KPa and rpms above 3500 the ECU will move into open loop. The specific ranges vary by specific ecu map but these ranges give you a general idea of when the bike is running in closed loop (lower RPMs and lower throttle positions) versus open loop (higher RPMs and fuller throttle positions)
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2010 FLHTCUSE5 (SE Ultra) Scarlet Red Pearl/Dark Slate with Flames
...I can tell you that the Harley map I started with to tune my upgraded 2010 SEUC (included with the Pro Tuner software), was more like 60% open and 40% closed loop. Many of the other maps that come with the SuperTuner are similar in terms of the AFR cells that not in closed loop...
Was that stoich, AFR, or lambda values you're looking at? Just curious...
Now that I've read this part, I'd strongly suggest you find a shop to do this work for you.
Not wanting to understand the system and why someone went one direction or another means you'll end up with spending a lot of dollars and complaining your bike runs like crap.
You've already gotten some bad and wrong information per the posts above.
Good luck!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Tree
At the risk of sounding disrespectful, I think you're a bit confused as to what a tuning device is or can do.
Most of us are here to help but we can't do all your homework for you.
FWIW, I really hope this doesn't become a complete train wreck for you...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pine Tree
Thanks for the reply.
I would generally leave it if we simply disagreed on the method of getting from point A to point B.
But much of the info in this thread is just flat wrong. And that's where people get into trouble.
Someone is probably basing a decision on the info found here and in other threads. Posting and leaving bad info out there is not helping and could actually cause someone to damage a bike or worse.
I'll end it by saying...READERS BEWARE!
So what information in this tread is wrong and what have you said to help the OP out other than saying visit the tech forums or have someone do it for you? Seems you just want to be combative with other people, but thats IMO.
To the OP, adding a tuner (I use the PCV from Fuelmoto) with out upgrading the pipes or A/C is just fine. As stated above in other threads, you will recieve gains in torque and horse power. These gains will be further maximized by the A/C and pipes, but are not nessicary. If you plan on doing these things later on down the road, and you want to change the tuning on your bike, I would suggest the PCV from Fuelmoto as they have great customer service and tech support. As you make changes you can call them up and they will help you load the proper map for your additions. If you want to have your bike tuned, then as someone said above, get the device that the tuner is comfortable with as this will generally provide a better tune.
Was that stoich, AFR, or lambda values you're looking at? Just curious...
It shouldn't matter. If it's closed loop in Stoichiometric, the same cells will automatically be closed loop in Lambda (and vice versa). I typically work in Stoichiometric when making adjustments to the cells, particularly when using SmartTune.
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2010 FLHTCUSE5 (SE Ultra) Scarlet Red Pearl/Dark Slate with Flames
2009 Ultra Classic, Vivid Black, SERT, A/C, V&H Monster Ovals, Oil Cooler, Chrome Stuff
