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Please write more I am interested in any information on this subject there is nothing better than experience and I am sure a whole slew of combinations have been experimented with.
KMvallee,
Before you read the long story below this short story, here's one bottom line that's worth spewing; stage 2 builds are ok. stage 3 builds are only about 1500 dollars more than that and the positive results vastly out weigh the initial cost. It's worth it. You will be much happier. I get 42 miles per gallon average and I have tons of torque in any gear and at any RPM. I tuned the bike myself. It's not quite their yet. I'm getting an air fuel ratio meter from "fast" to help me with my VE tuning. The front end will be much lighter after that....LOL. I probably won't take it to a dyno unless I want some bragging rights. Some day maybe.
Here was my experience. In 2005, I put SE203's in a 95" fuel injected ultra, with stock heads and bassani true duals, bought a race tuner, had it dyno tuned a year later. 97.4 ft lbs/ 81 horses. NOt bad for this build. However, my mileage went down to an average of 32 per gallon. It ran good but when my bike was loaded down for a long trip, I still needed to down shift If I wanted to pass someone quickly. I really was dissapointed with the miles per gallon lost. It smelled like an old lawnmower at times too.
two years ago, I started researching the web for solutions. I really wanted to do things my way. My build is unique because most builds use parts from the same company. I made a mistake putting Keith Black hypereutics in my twin cam 6 months ago. a forged piston releases heat better then the hypereutics do. The motor ran hot. The other mistake I made was not having the pistons in the hands of the guy that bored my cylinders so that he could match them with the pistons. The motor ran hot. I rebuilt my build two months ago after I started having alot of heat issues and top end noise. I brought my top end parts and pistons to a local builder and he told me that my valve seat pressure was too low for the type of cams that I had. I told the guy that built my Dan Vance heads what cams that I had too. The valve spring pressure was set up by someone that I've never met.
What I'm really saying is; if you do major engine work, use a local builder that you can go to face to face and have him do everything so that your components are toleranced correctly. It doesn't matter if you have a unique build or not. My first mistake was that I tried to save a dime and it almost cost me a new twin cam motor.
Harley Davidson screamin eagle parts are ok, but for the same money or less, you can find far better performing parts then SE.
This is one mans opinion; Head quarters is a good direction to go. Dan Vance heads flow very well. D&D exhaust systems are a good direction to go.
If you keep your motor at a stage 2 level, buy Head quarters cams.
If you go beyond stage 2, buy head quarters cams. Give your stock heads to Head quarters or a local builder and have them ported. Do not buy SE heads. They will not perform as well as having your stock heads professionally ported.
Keep your stock throttle body. Buying a large diameter throttle body will only help you win a dyno "load shooting" contest. The stock throttle body will out perform most bigger ones in street applications in mileage and torque accross the rpm range. Of course, once again, it all depends on what you are looking for.
Read about this stuff on the web. It's interesting physics and engineering stuff.
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I agree with the SE cyl/head comments. Some years back a buddy bought them for his Evo FXR. He thought they were a HUGE waste of money. Says the TC one's aren't much better.
I'm considering the 95" conv with those 570's (maybe?) some porting and a Mikuni 42. That should at least get out of it's own way.
I agree with the SE cyl/head comments. Some years back a buddy bought them for his Evo FXR. He thought they were a HUGE waste of money. Says the TC one's aren't much better.
I'm considering the 95" conv with those 570's (maybe?) some porting and a Mikuni 42. That should at least get out of it's own way.
The 570 cams look like they should work good but that's because it's a "known product" That's my personal opinion. There are better choices for the same money.
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a cam question. What is a 251 cam? Previous owner had 95" big bore kit installed with Screaming Eagle heads, receicpt shows 251 cams. I've never heard them mentioned.
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I have a cam question. What is a 251 cam? Previous owner had 95" big bore kit installed with Screaming Eagle heads, receicpt shows 251 cams. I've never heard them mentioned.
........will you really see a benifit to your low end torque with a 4 degree advance on a low lift cam? You will loose miles per gallon just to gain maybe 10 more ft lbs of torque. I've been down this road and found something much better.........
Hi producer, could you explain this a little more? I was also considering the TW6-6 cam with 4* adv gear (which BTW is a very popular choice) but that cam is also a "low lift" cam at .510?? Now I'm confused.
John B
