Primary Oil Drain Screw in too far...

[Nightking]

That plug only needs to be tightened flush with the cover. Any more and it will go right inside. The newer models do have a shoulder on them. But, that is definitely a drain plug for the outer primary. I sure you were hitting something on the clutch basket. Do do that no more, ok.

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[Buddha2]

That is most definitely the primary drain on older TCs. Being a fine thread and not having a lot of taper you can easily run it too deep. I always used to add teflon tape and just snug the plug. If it leaks you can always tighten it some more. I never had a problem.

[CroK]

Yep, that's the primary drain plug. Mine has the same one, and I did the same thing except it took the magnet clean off of mine. I haven't opened the primary other than the clutch cover yet, and I found a piece of the magnet stuck on the outer primary case just inside. It's got to be hitting the bottom of the clutch bell by the looks of it. When I say it took the magnet 'clean' off, I mean just that. My plug looks like it was machined not rubbed off.

[CroK]

Originally Posted by beerguz

I guess you could see what the tourqe is for that bolt and go from there.

Since that is a straight thread, not a tapered pipe thread, there is no torque to achieve. It will keep going until it gets completely free of the thread and drops inside.

Just make sure you have plenty of teflon tape on it, no less than three wraps, and like some one else stated just flush with the outer casing.

I tried some Silicon gasket sealer, but that was not good enough. No leaks with the teflon tape as long as you put enough wraps on it. It will make you wonder if it's going to stay in place too. So far, mine hasn't come loose, and hasn't leaked (yet). Next time I pull the primary out cover, I'm going to tap it for a pipe plug.Doesn't seem to be enough area for a bolt with a head and O-ring.

[Roadking Cal]

You got the plug in far enough that the PRIMARY CHAIN was trying to saw it into bits.

I highly recommend checking/replacing the chain.

[davessworks]

Speaking of Teflon tape - I've been using the yellow type for sealing natural gas pipes. It's heavier duty - works MUCH better than the white plumber type. Am I onto something new here? Furthermore the white stuff breaks down around petroleum products - so I've heard (not entirely sure about the accuracy of this claim). Check this link out by way of a description: http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/teflontape.php - you can buy it at any good hardware store.

One more thought - never apply in such a way that an end could fall off inside a sump of any kind. No saying where it may get stuck!

[Trex]

That's the correct plug but you should read the Manual sometimes, that plug should only screw in until it is sticking out .16 of an in.

[davessworks]

Originally Posted by Trex

That's the correct plug but you should read the Manual sometimes, that plug should only screw in until it is sticking out .16 of an in.

- I do believe that's what the manual says. Unless you have set of feeler gauges (and who does anymore?) then that's a ball park number. Dang - wish I'd kept my feeler gauges - all kinds of uses beyond setting points.

[Trex]

Originally Posted by davessworks

- I do believe that's what the manual says. Unless you have set of feeler gauges (and who does anymore?) then that's a ball park number. Dang - wish I'd kept my feeler gauges - all kinds of uses beyond setting points.

To me that translates into about a big black hair past a sixteenth.

[CroK]

My manual only says to clean debris from the magnet and install. Another section says to apply pipe sealer with teflon, then install plug into primary chaincase. No mention of distance or clearance that I can find.


I still have feeler gauges. Prolly 2 or 3 different sets. And, I read the tech manual like your children read bedtime stories, most likely more often.