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So the misses says to me, "I think you should lower your bike when you add the chrome lowers to the front". (BTW, I really love this lady). If you've lowered your RK or RKC, who's kit did you use and what do you think?
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2005 Road King Classic, Vivid Black
Stage 2 Kit (from an 88 to a 95, because 7 inches means a lot)
V&H Classic Slip Ons
V&H Fuel Pak
Mean City Cycle's Custom Saddle(s)
H&K Tactical .40 S&W
I went with the Race Tech gold emulator valve and one inch drop springs, depending on the weigh of the riders , they have a spring to match. cant go wrong with that set up, I made my own air ride for the rear, works great and can ride anywhere between 9.5 to 14 in shock spread on the rear end.
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2000 Road King Classic, Hillside 98 c.i. Big Boyz Heads, Andrews 26G gear drive w\ 1.725 rockers, 48mm HPI, SERT, Thunderheader 2:1, Quadzilla Fairing, Race Tech Gold Valve forks, Home built air ride, Sta-Bo bushing and 08 swing arm.
Just wait until you hit a tight curve that you were not suspecting and all hell breaks loose. I really dont see the attraction to lowering and reducing your turning radius. Of course if all you do a bar-hop - go for it.
...gene
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2003 Road King Classic
SE Air, Slip-ons, ME880
Andrews EZ Pushrods
Thundermax w/Autotune
Max Power 71.22, Max Torque 80.54 @6000ft elevation (pre-TMax)
Take care when lowering if you already drag your floorboards. Lowering a stock touring scoot reduces lean angle several degrees. Lean a little too far and you will low side skid when floorboard support arms contact pavement.
If however, you install larger wheels, like the popular 21F/18R combo, then you can safely lower the front and rear 1 to 1 1/2 inches, and probably should lower it just to get proper jiffy stand height and handling back near stock.
I ride in an area that is heaven for mountainous twisties, long sweeping turns and desert overlooks. Definietly the last modification to ever hit my FLHR will be lowering the bike to reduce turning angles!
__________________ 2001 FLHRI 95" - SE Hi-Perf. Heads
Henderson Porting - SE Forged Pistons
S&S 570G Cams - BC Gerolomy Modified Throttle Body
SuperTrapp SuperMegs 2-into-1 - PCIII-usb
my sg is lower than the electra glides, a good thing if you're short. but it really reduces the usable suspension travel a lot. i will either end up buying new eg standard rear shocks to replace the shorty sg shocks to get the suspension back that the factory took away by lowering the streetglide. good luck cw4. by the way if you were a cw4 did you start your training at ft rucker alabama? warrant officers were usually either flyboys in whirlybirds, or in supply. i went the rotor wing route myself.
Lowered the front 1" (Progressive springs) and the rear 1.5" (progressive 11.5" 412 HD shocks.) I also moved the floorboards forward 1" and out 3/4". I scrape the boards when I try to but only once on accident. I like the 1" out front but if i could do it over again and had some extra cash i would go with the Arnot Air in the rear to be able to adjust the height and raise or lower depending on mood and driving conditions.
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Chris
08 Road King Classic
Rinehart True Duals
V&H Fuelpak
Nes Big Sucker A/C