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After removing the TOP FORK BOLT that is accessible after removing the inner fairing cap, there is a hole there, HOWEVER, it would seem very difficult to be able to pour fork oil into this little hole without making a mess or waiting an hour for it to drain down into the fork tube. The most time consuming part of removing the fork is taking the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender off. After this, it's a breeze. Not hard at all , just time consuming.
I too agree removing the radio is not necessary. The top fork cap bolt is not fastened very tight and easily removed. Just replace the rubber gasket underneath the fork cap bolt as lagniappe.
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__________________ 2007 UltraClassic\103"BB\.030 Cometic Head Gasket\SE 255's Doherty PowerPACC w/vents\Supertrapp SE's\SERT\Bagger Brace M1 15W-50 incrank\Redline MTL in Primary\Redline Shockproof in Tranny My other toy!
After removing the TOP FORK BOLT that is accessible after removing the inner fairing cap, there is a hole there, HOWEVER, it would seem very difficult to be able to pour fork oil into this little hole without making a mess or waiting an hour for it to drain down into the fork tube.
There's only 10.8 oz. to add, so I wouldn't think it would take that long. How large is this hole?
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The most time consuming part of removing the fork is taking the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender off. After this, it's a breeze. Not hard at all , just time consuming.
I know, and I'm not sure why I'm making such a big deal about this, as I've removed and disassembed forks before. It just seems like extra busy-work to do all that just to change the fork oil. I got so spoiled with the easy job on my old RK using vacuum that I'm resisting the extra work.
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The top fork cap bolt is not fastened very tight and easily removed. Just replace the rubber gasket underneath the fork cap bolt as lagniappe.
Isn't it an o-ring under the top bolt (plug) and a larger one under the fork-tube plug?
One last question: Can the fork-tube plug be loosened while still on the bike? If not, how do you secure the fork to remove this plug once the fork is removed from the bike? The manual shows a special vise clamp to secure it. If you can get to it, can it be accessed with a crescent wrench? Someone in another thread said he used a 22mm crow foot, which I don't have, but thought a crescent wrench would work.
__________________ 2007 Street Ultra
Stage 1½: Fuel Moto Power Package, SE255 cams.
Starting with the 06s, HD got rid of the cartridge fork they had in the left leg, both are connventional now. We simply did what you are suggesting in our shop. You will need to "bounce" the bike a little to insure all oil is drained.
BUT, more importantly... you can't just FILL the forks to capacity in one shot. You need to pour about half the amount in, bounce the front end again, this lets the oil get past the new "damper" they use, then pour the remainder.
I'm going to give this a try, as it can't hurt anything and sounds simple and quick. I may add some fluid (maybe half capacity), bounce the forks, then drain again to make sure most of the old fluid and gunk is out.
__________________ 2007 Street Ultra
Stage 1½: Fuel Moto Power Package, SE255 cams.
iclick- I did it your way and had 1 heck pf a time reinstalling ign switch, took many tries, pilling radio id a PITA but I get it, any tips to your way?
Isn't it an o-ring under the top bolt (plug) and a larger one under the fork-tube plug?
Correct
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One last question: Can the fork-tube plug be loosened while still on the bike? If you can get to it, can it be accessed with a crescent wrench? Someone in another thread said he used a 22mm crow foot, which I don't have, but thought a crescent wrench would work.
Actually no. A Crescent definitely won't fit and I wouldn't even attempt putting a crow's foot on it either. The "fork tube plug" is "buried" into the top triple clamp and the room to work is REALLY limited. I only offered the potential idea of being able to fill the fork with oil via the hole in the top of the fork tube plug to answer if it could "possibly" be done. MUCH easier a task to remove the fork and mess with it.
I could of taken my forks off, rebuilt the insides, put on the chrome lowers and had the lowers back on the bike in no more than 4 hours had I not had to wait on a part.
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If not, how do you secure the fork to remove this plug once the fork is removed from the bike? The manual shows a special vise clamp to secure it.
I use a Craftsmen rubberized pipe holder to secure the forks without marring the surface. You need to fasten this around the fork lower and it puts a bind on it so you can loosen the bottom 6mm bolt as well as the top fork plug. Also, don't forget to use a drill or comparable air tool with your 6mm allen wrench tool on it to spin the bolt faster than the bottom of the damper it is fastened to or else you'll be turning both and never actually loosening the 6mm bolt itself.(this is if you are rebuilding the internals)
__________________ 2007 UltraClassic\103"BB\.030 Cometic Head Gasket\SE 255's Doherty PowerPACC w/vents\Supertrapp SE's\SERT\Bagger Brace M1 15W-50 incrank\Redline MTL in Primary\Redline Shockproof in Tranny My other toy!
Last edited by UltraKla$$ic; 08-13-2008 at 12:18 PM.
Shesss, I've been pondering this myself for the last few weeks but now I'm not sure. I'm pretty good with a wrench, but this almost sounds like brain surgery. I didn't find the manual much clearer either.
Beary
__________________
2009 Vivid Black Street Glide
2002 RKClassic - sold
Shesss, I've been pondering this myself for the last few weeks but now I'm not sure. I'm pretty good with a wrench, but this almost sounds like brain surgery. I didn't find the manual much clearer either.
Beary
I'm not kidding, it is EXTREMELY EASY to do. Again, the most time consuming task is taking off the front wheel, brakes and fender without scratching things. It only comes off one way and goes on one way. Idiotproof. Seriously. Absolutely no way would I pay a 5 hour shop fee at $70-$90 bucks an hour to do this job.
__________________ 2007 UltraClassic\103"BB\.030 Cometic Head Gasket\SE 255's Doherty PowerPACC w/vents\Supertrapp SE's\SERT\Bagger Brace M1 15W-50 incrank\Redline MTL in Primary\Redline Shockproof in Tranny My other toy!
iclick- I did it your way and had 1 heck pf a time reinstalling ign switch, took many tries, pilling radio id a PITA but I get it, any tips to your way?
I've had the ignition switch off many times on this bike and only once had a problem. That was when I tried to unlock the forks by reinserting the switch knob without the spacer thingies under it. Used a flat-blade screwdriver to get the tumblers back in the right position, but I had doubts I could do it at first.
Removing the knob takes no tools except the ignition key. Just push on the tab under the knob with a small finger on your left hand, then rotate the key CCW. The knob will then pop right out. To re-install, just put all the washers/spacers back the way they came off, push in the tab again, and re-insert the knob from the same position you removed it. Rotate the key CW back to OFF, you'll hear a "click," and you're done.
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Pilling radio id a PITA but I get it
You don't need to remove the radio for any of this, even UltraCla$$ic's method.
__________________ 2007 Street Ultra
Stage 1½: Fuel Moto Power Package, SE255 cams.
Shesss, I've been pondering this myself for the last few weeks but now I'm not sure. I'm pretty good with a wrench, but this almost sounds like brain surgery. I didn't find the manual much clearer either.
I believe UltraCla$$ic, as I've done this job before--but I'm hung-up on taking all that time for a freakin' fork-oil change. If the simpler procedure works it should take no more than one hour.
I'm going to try the drain-and-add method--i.e., no wheel, fender, and fork removal--probably tomorrow and will do a quick write-up on this thread. If it doesn't work I'll just remove the freakin' forks.
__________________ 2007 Street Ultra
Stage 1½: Fuel Moto Power Package, SE255 cams.
Here's something else I ran across. You could use some inner-tube rubber to keep it from scratching the tube, but the straps ought to work. On this one the 1 5/8" maximum size should barely fit the 41mm lower.
