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Have you had hd flip your rotors. It is a TSB on the street glides to have them flipped. If you do the screech will be gone. Also new brake pads would work well for you as well.
I'm not so lucky, I had mine flipped worked for about a couple days and squeal was back. I'm gonna try the Z+ pads. hope it works or I'm gonna have to try floaters myself, just so much I would rather buy for my bike other than brake products right now.
I have a '05 rk custom... When I got the bike, it made a terrible noise when pulling in the front brake... when I took it to the dealer (before the TSB came out), they told me it was caused by the chrome dome spacer between the wheel and the rotor. They filled the dome with silicone/foam, and the squeal never returnd. Now, when the TSB came out, I had the rotors swapped, just in case... I still have absolutely no noise... IMO, take the bike to the dealer and ask them to fill the cavity, which is causing a harmonic noise... worked for me, and cost me no cash, at all...
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__________________ PapaTravis
'05 RK Custom FLHRS
95 cubic inches
Screaming Eagle 204 cams
Fullsac 2-2 Samson Drag fishtail exhaust...w/lollipops
Police air ride seat... all day comfort...
18" LA Chopper 1 1/4 in bars / Braided lines
Before blowing big bucks on floating rotors just to try and get rid of squeals, try some Kevlar pads. I have been running EBC Kevlars for over 60k miles on both the stock rotors and some cheapo polished stainless ones. Neither squeak, sweal or have that annoying swishing sound like you get with OEM pads. EBC Kevlars are 19 bucks a pair from Jireh Cycles.
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2000 Road King Classic. Andrews 26G cams, SE Stage I, DFO, V&H True Duals with Samson Fishtail Mufflers.
Any 2 piece rotor is a floating rotor. No, they shouldn't move back&forth if you push them, that would be way too much movement. The specs on movement are like 0.2mm or less.
I am getting Hawg Halter 6 piston calipers up front and W8less Brakes composite floating rotors too. Anyone have these rotors and or calipers to opine about??
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2009 CVO Ultra in Twilight Blue&Silver
Remember, no matter where you go, there you are.
AMA Life Member 721314
Any 2 piece rotor is a floating rotor. No, they shouldn't move back&forth if you push them, that would be way too much movement. The specs on movement are like 0.2mm or less.
I am getting Hawg Halter 6 piston calipers up front and W8less Brakes composite floating rotors too. Anyone have these rotors and or calipers to opine about??
We make floating rotors and they are suppose to move back and fourth (if you push them side to side. That is why they are called floating rotors. We have been making Metal Matrix Composite Ceramic rotors for over 10 years and on numerous motorcycles out there. We spin cast our friction rings unlike the look-a-like cheaper rotors out there. When you squeeze cast a friction ring the molecules do not align up and air bubbles are a problem. We had catastrophic rotor failure in the beginning years during development using this same squeeze cast process testing on a race bike. Do your homework first than decide what to buy.
Any 2 piece rotor is a floating rotor. No, they shouldn't move back&forth if you push them, that would be way too much movement. The specs on movement are like 0.2mm or less.
I am getting Hawg Halter 6 piston calipers up front and W8less Brakes composite floating rotors too. Anyone have these rotors and or calipers to opine about??
We make floating rotors and they are suppose to move back and fourth (if you push them side to side. That is why they are called floating rotors. We have been making Metal Matrix Composite Ceramic rotors for over 10 years and on numerous motorcycles out there. We spin cast our friction rings unlike the look-a-like cheaper rotors out there. When you squeeze cast a friction ring the molecules do not align up and air bubbles are a problem. We had catastrophic rotor failure in the beginning years during development using this same squeeze cast process testing on a race bike. Do your homework first than decide what to buy.
OK, we are saying the same thing. Float should be from side to side, not in the direction of travel as I called back&forth(like rocking the bike fore and aft on the wheels ) So, I think we are saying the same thing, just worded differently
__________________
2009 CVO Ultra in Twilight Blue&Silver
Remember, no matter where you go, there you are.
AMA Life Member 721314
RE: OK, we are saying the same thing. Float should be from side to side, not in the direction of travel as I called back&forth(like rocking the bike fore and aft on the wheels ) So, I think we are saying the same thing, just worded differently
You are correct. Thanks for the clarification for all to read and decide for themselves. There are many who claim they have floating rotors, however they have two piece ones.
There are many ways to make rotors, some good and some bad. The cheap ones are dropped stamped (Drop Hammer) where the metal distorts under the tremendous pressure when hit with the die. The blanks are than finished and ground smooth. The problems arise when you try to use these rotors once you leave the store. Heat allowes the metal to find the molecules true alignment. Once this happens, these stamped friction rings may go out of parallel which gives the pulsating feel thru the piston to hydraulic brake fluid to master cylinder to brake handle to the riders hand.
When machining a part from a sheet that is rolled (manufacturing process) from the foundry, all of the molecules are aligned. It takes much more time and costs to machine (think CNC or Bridgeport) a piece from a sheet than it does by a stamp method. For some parts, a stamping is acceptable. For others, such as brake rotors, they are not. The cheap price you just received, sometimes is not all that cheap once you have to re-buy that cheap part. It pays to know how an item is made before buying it.
This is the short version. You may research this subject better on the internet or by calling or e-Mailing me with your questions.
RE: ROTOR UPGRADE
