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Thanks ... I'm not being a prick either.. or a lazy ass ...so, first, thanks for offering your help. Now my sermon ... Some of us are not mechanically inclined ... and some of us are ...and some of us are good at other things .. in my case its math ... I can map fuel curves like no body's business and work non linear energy transfer functions that most people could never begin to understand how to unravel .. but I don't have a clue as to what a "pull open cable" is and I sure as hell don't know what an "idle cable" is ... I have manuals for my Mercedes and the Miata and 60% of the time its confounding as hell to me. I do the best I can ... with what I have .. I'm 56 years old ... and I am now forgetting more things I used to know than I could ever replace with new knowledge and talents ...
I was just asking for some help from more experienced folks ... I won't ask again so I don't have to get a lesson I don't need ...Hell .. I'll just take it the Harley dealership and let them deal with it .. its under warranty ... and when its not .. that math ability I have gave me another ability .. I can write checks that don't bounce ... and typically that is the best tool in my tool box. Thanks again.
You'd better have the dealer look at that bur under your saddle also.
I second buying a manual a Harley ain't no Mercedes.
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It is an easy job just play with it a little. The video should help you and you don't need to take the pcs apart as he did because you just want to take up the slack. Hope this helps.
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Last edited by OhioSkully; 10-27-2009 at 11:48 AM.
two cables going into your throttle. adjust one. If the bike starts idling higher the more you adjust turn it back to where it was and adjust the other.
Won't that work? I have some tools and know what a crescent wrench is and usually make stuff worse but it is fun.
Ask all the questions you like. That said, the service manual is pretty well written, and will pay for itself with the first service you do yourself.
All bikes in the US after some year (70s?) have a throttle cable and a return cable (to force the throttle closed). All this because once upon a time someone's throttle stuck, they freaked out, crashed, and sued. That's probably why the kill switch made an appearance, too.
At any rate, there are two - I find the service manual procedure to be an exception to the "well written" statement I made above - to me, it's confusing.
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'07 XL1200R, SE Street Perf slipons, Progressive 412s, S
undowner seat, compact windshield, cheap nylon saddlebags. 7000 miles a year or so.
Well, I'm 68, retired, also have enough $ to take my bike to the stealer, but I've been a heavy equipment mechanic a lot of years, so I qualify to be "inclined". I also had the extra "play" in my throttle cables. I said to my self, phock how hard can it be to adjust two cables, so I did. (worked out of the manual) Went for a ride, I could not maintain a steady speed. Went home and tried again, I had the adjustment TOOO close together and any movment in my hand (bumps, pot holes, tar snakes, etc) would move my throttle and bike would surge or drop off. After all of this, I guess I'm saying it could be a tricky job for you to do. If i were you I'd give it a shot (with the manual) if it don't work the first time, (like mine), do it again. When you are all done, you can stand back and be proud, you did it your self and kept some of your $s. Hope this helped. Ride safe.
