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So did they tell exactly what they did..........if all they tell you(it's got a crack somewhere), i hope they don't charge ya for it. But yeah just rebuild it, it's pretty easy, and you may wanna pick up a new main and pilot jet, a 45 and 180 is a good start.....just to make sure the former owner didn't oversize the original jets by drilling them, jets are only a few bucks so. Also check the jet needle to see if anyone put shims/washers on it, and if so take them out and start fresh. Check all the gaskets and replace if needed. Also when dissassembled, get a gallon of good carb cleaner to soak the carb in, then after a good soak, use gumout carb spray to rinse it, and also shoot it through every orifice hole you find, followed up by a flash dry with compressesed air. Put it back together.....double check the float level is correct....too high and you'll run very rich, which could have been the problem to begin with so take the time to do it right. And keep us posted if you find out what the problem is........sooner or later someone else will be on board here looking for the same solution.
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94' 1250 Hugger
stretched tank
andrews n4 cams
cycle shack slip-ons
mustang vintage solo
Mikuni HSR42
Plugs badly fowled upon arrival
Stage 1 installed. slow 45 main 175 needle 65a slide vent 1/8
found fuel screw @ 1/4 turn. Bike ran and started w/ not enrichment.
adj float height .433
bike still ran with zero enrichment w/ fuel screw at zero.
changed enrich plunger. same result as above.
plugged enrich jet in bowl, bike still ran recomend new carb. Fuel is by passing appropriate passages. possible fuel screw seated to tightly, deforming seat.
Thats everything they found out, costing me a grand total of $229.38.
So anyone have any suggestions?
Or where i can get all the specs and settings on the carb?
Well do a rebuild and check things out yourself first....... The thing is with the mixture screw......it'll have little to no effect at anything above 1/8 throttle.......if you want proof of this, take a good running bike and fully seat or even remove the mixture screw and the bike will run just fine as long as it has a little throttle.....but will die when back at idle.....this is just to prove that the mixture screw isn't necessarily your problem unless it did in fact relate to cracking the carb near the seat. So all i'd reccomend is give the carb a rebuild and keep a sharp eye out for any physical damage, and like I said earlier, pay close attention to all the gaskets, including the accellerator pump diaphram. But from there, i'd probly keep an eye on ebay for a new carb......i see used keihins often sell for $40-50. Or if you can't find one, i have my old keihin still in exellent shape, Its from a 94, but as far as I know it's the same carb with no changes over the years, although you'd have to double check that, but if you were interested I'd sell mine for $30 +shipping.
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94' 1250 Hugger
stretched tank
andrews n4 cams
cycle shack slip-ons
mustang vintage solo
Mikuni HSR42
I turned my fuel selecter valve to the almost off position to see if that would help restrict the amount of fuel being delivered. it seem to help just a bit but really hard to tell.
all the more info would be appriciated.
oh and is there a website I can visit that will point out all the different parts of my carb, so that i dont get them all mixed up.
Unfortunately I don't know what the part number of the carb is, you'll probly have to check with the dealer and have them look it up and compare part numbers. I tried to look for info online on the carb, but details were a bit sketchy. I'm out of town right now, so I'll dig the carb out on Monday, and see if I can find any more info for you on it then. I may also be able to scan a picture of the carb parts diagram from my hd-manual then also.
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94' 1250 Hugger
stretched tank
andrews n4 cams
cycle shack slip-ons
mustang vintage solo
Mikuni HSR42