How do I stop heat wrap from fraying?
#3
Heat wrap always frays from cut ends if not installed correctly.....But your problem is from boot abrasion mid length along the wrap.
Heat wrap has tremendous heat resistance but is rather fragile and can't tolerate abraision.
All you can do is attempt to keep your boot off the wrap, or consider installing a small metal shield in that area.....if you removed your heat shields to install the wrap, then see if you can salvage a short piece that will fit that area and still retains the hose clamp tang. From there paint it black and clamp it on.
If your salvaged piece of heat shield doesn't have a hose clamp tang in the area you need, then have one welded on. From there sandblast the chrome off and paint/powercoat it black then clamp it on over the wrap.
Word to the wise on heat wrap: For you here who remove your heat shields and install wrap, you need to get the bike dynoed and your fuel map and spark timing tweeked if you expect her to run her best afterwards because the wrap totally changes the flow properties of the exhaust.
Heat wrap is a very effective insulator and will have a dramatic effect on exhaust gas flow and temps and "effective compression" and "in-cylinder A/F ratios and firing pressures"...all those parameters are already close to the detonation threshold on a stock engine-so don't venture beyond there by accident simply seeking that "look".
A change in exhaust flow/temp conditions will totally throw off your inital tune. Heat wrap ain't for just looks or leg protection, it is a very effective tuning tool and is used only when required to affect conditions in the cylinders that contribute to the whole combustion process.
Heat wrap is applied in the same fashion that an intake, cam, exhaust, or other hardware is selected. It is a tool that gives the tuner extended control where he exerts his influence from intake to exhaust tip. It's only a piece of the total science involved. On a properly tuned engine it is visible, but all the other science isn't-so don't allow just heat wrap alone to convince you it will work for you.
Visible heat wrap states you got serious stuff going on and you know what you are doing. Don't attempt to use it to bluff or you can damage your stock engine unless you retune for it.
Heat wrap has tremendous heat resistance but is rather fragile and can't tolerate abraision.
All you can do is attempt to keep your boot off the wrap, or consider installing a small metal shield in that area.....if you removed your heat shields to install the wrap, then see if you can salvage a short piece that will fit that area and still retains the hose clamp tang. From there paint it black and clamp it on.
If your salvaged piece of heat shield doesn't have a hose clamp tang in the area you need, then have one welded on. From there sandblast the chrome off and paint/powercoat it black then clamp it on over the wrap.
Word to the wise on heat wrap: For you here who remove your heat shields and install wrap, you need to get the bike dynoed and your fuel map and spark timing tweeked if you expect her to run her best afterwards because the wrap totally changes the flow properties of the exhaust.
Heat wrap is a very effective insulator and will have a dramatic effect on exhaust gas flow and temps and "effective compression" and "in-cylinder A/F ratios and firing pressures"...all those parameters are already close to the detonation threshold on a stock engine-so don't venture beyond there by accident simply seeking that "look".
A change in exhaust flow/temp conditions will totally throw off your inital tune. Heat wrap ain't for just looks or leg protection, it is a very effective tuning tool and is used only when required to affect conditions in the cylinders that contribute to the whole combustion process.
Heat wrap is applied in the same fashion that an intake, cam, exhaust, or other hardware is selected. It is a tool that gives the tuner extended control where he exerts his influence from intake to exhaust tip. It's only a piece of the total science involved. On a properly tuned engine it is visible, but all the other science isn't-so don't allow just heat wrap alone to convince you it will work for you.
Visible heat wrap states you got serious stuff going on and you know what you are doing. Don't attempt to use it to bluff or you can damage your stock engine unless you retune for it.
Last edited by oinker02; 08-08-2009 at 04:10 PM.
#4
Check this easy fix out from Mudpuddle. He also details how to wrap pipes:
http://www.battersbyornamental.com/rinehart.htm
and
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...wrap-atoz.html
"Picture above, shows the little shield I placed by the footpeg on the Rineharts. I cut it out of a stock heatshield, using a section that has the strap receiver on the backside. Some folks use larger sections, and perforate them. I only wanted enough to keep my boot off the pipe. Pictures below (the ShortShots) show why I am doing this".
http://www.battersbyornamental.com/rinehart.htm
and
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...wrap-atoz.html
"Picture above, shows the little shield I placed by the footpeg on the Rineharts. I cut it out of a stock heatshield, using a section that has the strap receiver on the backside. Some folks use larger sections, and perforate them. I only wanted enough to keep my boot off the pipe. Pictures below (the ShortShots) show why I am doing this".
#5
Check this easy fix out from Mudpuddle. He also details how to wrap pipes:
http://www.battersbyornamental.com/rinehart.htm
and
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...wrap-atoz.html
"Picture above, shows the little shield I placed by the footpeg on the Rineharts. I cut it out of a stock heatshield, using a section that has the strap receiver on the backside. Some folks use larger sections, and perforate them. I only wanted enough to keep my boot off the pipe. Pictures below (the ShortShots) show why I am doing this".
http://www.battersbyornamental.com/rinehart.htm
and
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...wrap-atoz.html
"Picture above, shows the little shield I placed by the footpeg on the Rineharts. I cut it out of a stock heatshield, using a section that has the strap receiver on the backside. Some folks use larger sections, and perforate them. I only wanted enough to keep my boot off the pipe. Pictures below (the ShortShots) show why I am doing this".
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