Top end rebuild

[ChiefGator]

I have never been a big wrencher, but I am thinking of tackling my top end myself. I have almost 60k on the S&S Shovel and it is starting to leak pretty good around the rocker boxes and a slight seepage around the front base. I have all the tools I need except a tourqe wrench that I will pick up soon. Any thoughts before I dig in over my head?

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[FilthyLucre]

You shouldn't have any problems. Just follow the service manual. Those curved starter wrenches will be a big help in loosening and tightening the head bolts. When putting it back together check to make sure the intake manifold is square to the ports before you tighten the heads down.

[AlCherry]

Originally Posted by FilthyLucre

You shouldn't have any problems. Just follow the service manual. Those curved starter wrenches will be a big help in loosening and tightening the head bolts. When putting it back together check to make sure the intake manifold is square to the ports before you tighten the heads down.

Absolutly right. Along with the starter wrench, Snap-On sells little "Dog Bone" wrenches you can use to torque your heads and cylinders when you get it back together. (Square drive on one end and bolt size on the other end.)
When you put it back together, put a light coat of grease on your cylinder base gaskets and rocker box gaskets when you install them. I found this helps seal them and eliminates future leaks. Same with the lifter blocks and nose cone gaskets. DO NOT USE SILICONE IN THESE AREAS!!! Al

[cj_slowdown]

Originally Posted by ChiefGator

I have never been a big wrencher, but I am thinking of tackling my top end myself.

I have almost 60k on the S&S Shovel and it is starting to leak pretty good around the rocker boxes and a slight seepage around the front base.

I have all the tools I need except a tourqe wrench that I will pick up soon.

Any thoughts before I dig in over my head?

Chief,

Man since getting out you really are stacking on the miles : - ))

You got great tips by these two, the only thing I can add is a buddy who got new heads from S&S (forget the size of the bolts) took a socket did the poor mans, putting the socket on a extension rod and grinded off some extra meat around it on a grinder, it worked but since he is a mechanic he ordered that “dog bone” size, like Al said, it worked, he used his snap-on torque wrench, if your going to buy one, try Precision Instruments makes a great click style about two large but it will last forever, good luck, remember having a Flex-head torque wrench is real nice and to always use a “star pattern” when torquing we like to bring it up half way, then do the final torque.


Precision Instruments

M2FR100F
3/8" Flex-head Drive Micrometer Click Wrench
– Drive Size: 3/8"
– Drive Type: Flex ratchet
– Capacity: 20-100 lb.ft.
– Increments: 0.5 lb.ft.
– Price: $ 210.00

http://www.torqwrench.com/tools/item...kCode=M2FR100F

Good info on torque wrenches

http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/

Good places to buy

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TTW355.html

http://www.toolsource.com/

Ride safe,

cj

[pococj]

Wrote this up a few years ago.

If you ever remove the intake manifold of a Shovel motor it’s a good idea to check how it aligns with the spigots on the heads. If it doesn’t align well, you’ll probably end up with a leak sooner or later. The best method is to loosen the heads and adjust their position to match the manifold. Once the head bolts are loosened, you’ll notice you can actually rotate the heads a bit.

One method is to put your manifold in place between the spigots and then start tightening the head bolts. Look at the gaps between the head spigots and the manifold to see if it's aligned correctly. Adjust the heads as needed.

Another method is to install the manifold without the o-rings. Install the clamps and tighten them, and the loose heads will align themselves to the manifold. Now tighten the head bolts in the standard crisscross pattern to 15 or 20 ft. lbs. Remove the manifold and finish tightening the head bolts to the proper torque specs.

You can make a leak tester to check your work by fabbing some type of cover for the front of the manifold. A piece of metal with holes drilled to match the holes of your manifold, and another hole for some method to connect an air line, works fine. To test your manifold-to-head connections pump about 5 psi into your contraption. Yeah, you gotta make sure both your intake valves are closed! Use some leak detector or make some with soapy water. Slosh it on the head-to-manifold joints and watch for bubbles.

When you are installing those dang o-rings, roll ‘em up onto the head spigots, but make sure they don’t twist when you slide them into the gap. Then before you put the clamps on, take a wrap or two with some electrical tape around the o-ring. Use some good tape, not the el-cheapo crap from the bargain bin. I like either Scotch 33 or Scotch 88. 33 is thinner and more flexible.

Some folks don’t like the tape routine. It does goo things up as the tape gets warm. And that is one reason it helps seal things. The next time you pull the manifold off, it easily cleans up with some good ol’ gasoline.
You folks with later model Shovels don’t have to mess with the o-rings; you’ve got those nice wide sissy bands. But things’ll still last longer if’n you align the heads and intake manifold.

[d_slat]

the only thing to remember about the dog bone sockets they are talking about, just like using crows feet with a torque wrench, the socket needs to be perpendicular to the torque wrench body for the torque readings to be accurate.

[extech]

These boys pretty well covered it, but make sure to take a close look at the threads in the cylinder head where the exhaust pipe bolts on, they're notorious for being buggered up, if they look the least bit questionable have a time-sert installed and install a stud instead of using a bolt to hold the pipe on.

[Shovel Ed]

If you haven't done much on a top end tare down.
My suggestion is.

1) Invest in a service manual or go to S&S website http://www.sscycle.com/ download manuals related to you motor.

2) Ask Questions.

3) Have wire ties and tags, label and tag all the parts you remove.
If your like me, at the time you remove the part you'll say I'll remember where it goes, then I'll turn around and completely for get. <bg>

4) Have 4 long but narrow (14"lg x 4"wd x 2"hg ) containers marked:
a) front exhaust
b) front intake
c) rear exhaust
d) rear intake
Put the parts removed into related container labeled, such as the pushrods, lifters, pushrod covers, also if you remove the rockers from the rocker boxes these containers will come in handy also.

5) I invested in a set of 12 point headbolts.

6) Invest in a complete topend gasket kit.

7) Don't be in a hurry putting everything back together, take your time. The way I see it, it's not like your lawnmower, if it breaks down you can't just push it back to the shed or garage.

8) Ask Questions.

[d_slat]

Originally Posted by extech

These boys pretty well covered it, but make sure to take a close look at the threads in the cylinder head where the exhaust pipe bolts on, they're notorious for being buggered up, if they look the least bit questionable have a time-sert installed and install a stud instead of using a bolt to hold the pipe on.

i'd put the stud in and a nut on even if they aren't messed up. It will keep them from getting that way.

[ChiefGator]

Thanx guys. Great advice all around.
I have a shop manual and the S&S manual too (Thanx CJ!).

I plan on putting in a stud on the read cyl. I already did the front a while back.

Now I just need to find the time.....................................