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So basically , you have to mark the position of the points before taking them out. Also when you check the gap on one side of the lobe aren't they the same on the other side of the lobe? Thanks
Here is a pic of the points I just changed out 2 days ago. These points were running the bike OK the last time it was started 18 months before, but when I inspected the condition of the contact surface I found the surface to be pitted and black.
This is caused by the normal arcing that takes place every time the points open.
I considered this worn enough (from the look of them) to replace.
pg
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
Okay now I have something tolook at . Tomorrow I will take a glance at mine and see how they look. The bike runs good but again I don't know the history of the bike This bike is a hard tail and my second bike And I probably put 800miles since I had the bike. Thanks again
__________________ "Miles are kept by how many times you fill up"
1.pinion why dont you like the chevy points?i mean mexican made hd parts or mexican made chevy parts???? just curious.
2.why do you prefer those types of points with the plastic piece? i had reterned some like that.they were loosely fitted in there and the plastic piece was already stressed and distorted.i know/hope they all aint like that but it seems to be a much crappier way compared to the ones you have to use a screw.
3.do you not use grease on the lobe?
4.for the people who has gone from electronic ignition to points it would seem they should use a plug from a points bike....as i BELEIVE it calls for a different plug.i THINK one calls for a 4r5 and the other does not call for the r.i assume r is a resistor plug.i have an 81 with points and honestly ijust use the 81 plugs as i never think about it till later.so if you have any thoughts on this could you/someone enlighten me......and i very well may be totally wrong and its all the same....making question #4 all bs...
have fun at the rally.hope yall get good weather down there.
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there is no try.only do or dont do.--yoda.
My bike is a early 84, according to my manual has a generater not a alternater.Also the bike was suppose to have electronic ign. mine has points which in my opinion was converted.My spark plugs areBosch super R0 192 not thinking are plugs for points or electronic ign.This bike was changed over as well cut up into a bobber I will look into the plugs Thanks
__________________ "Miles are kept by how many times you fill up"
I guess I must be lucky, I've been running Blue Streak points for a Chevy in my Ironhead for the past 17 years. I got the tip to use them from an indy buddy that works on a lot of Irons. I'd guess everyone he puts points in gets the same points.
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2000 Road King Classic. Andrews 26G cams, SE Stage I, DFO, V&H True Duals with Samson Fishtail Mufflers.
1.pinion why dont you like the chevy points?i mean mexican made hd parts or mexican made chevy parts???? just curious.
2.why do you prefer those types of points with the plastic piece? i had reterned some like that.they were loosely fitted in there and the plastic piece was already stressed and distorted.i know/hope they all aint like that but it seems to be a much crappier way compared to the ones you have to use a screw.
3.do you not use grease on the lobe?
4.for the people who has gone from electronic ignition to points it would seem they should use a plug from a points bike....as i BELEIVE it calls for a different plug.i THINK one calls for a 4r5 and the other does not call for the r.i assume r is a resistor plug.i have an 81 with points and honestly ijust use the 81 plugs as i never think about it till later.so if you have any thoughts on this could you/someone enlighten me......and i very well may be totally wrong and its all the same....making question #4 all bs...
have fun at the rally.hope yall get good weather down there.
Straydog......
It's not that I dislike Chevy points but rather if I can buy HD points that fit right in place why go anywhere else?
As an example, the Blue Streak points I bought from J&P were very nicely made. I was impressed, at first.
Then I went to install them. They had a screw that had to be completely removed to get my wire terminal attached. When this screw comes out the points fall apart. I had to grind a flat on them to get the terminal to lay flat.
OK, got it all done.
Next I install them and find the foot on the points does not reach the cam lobe, so there is no setting a gap. Period, no way.
Also, when I tightened down the hold down screw, the points deformed and the two contact disk overlapped by more than a half diameter.
Just plain junk and completely unusable.
Now the Harley points.......
Made in Mexico just like the Blue Streak. I have nothing against Mexican made electrical parts. They have been making them for cars and cycles for years now, if not decades. BUT......
The HD points fit right in place.
I can set a gap.
When I tighten down the hold down screw there is no distortion and the 2 disks line up perfectly.
To attach the wire terminals to the Harley points I simply compress the spring and the terminals attach easily to the black plastic piece without using a single tool. Remember that this 'plastic' piece also acts as a needed insulator.
So I must ask........ why should I use Chevy points?
The Harley points do the job they were designed to do and do it quite well.
The Blue Streak came with a large piece of fuzz attached to lube the ignition cam. Totally useless! All you have to do is put a tiny dab of ignition lube on the tip of your finger and transfer that to the cam.
From then on there is enough lube on the cam to last forever. All you have riding the metal cam is a piece of plastic (point's foot) coated with that dab of lube.
It ain't ever going to run dry and it ain't going to wear down the cam.
You will be putting the next set of points in before that happens.
Regarding the spark plug type to use........
The spark plug marked with an 'R' as part of it's number refers to resistor type. You are correct.
Resistor plugs are to prevent radio interference. Not a problem on most scooters I have ridden.
As far as the type of plug to use, this is dependent on these things:
Reach....long or short. An ironhead uses a short reach plug.
Heat range....... This depends on the way the bike is ridden and the condition of the engine.
Spark is spark, regardless if the source is points or electronic. The type of ignition has nothing to do with what type of plug to use.
An engine in good condition and ridden at highway speeds will require a colder plug than a bike that is ridden slowly around town.
That bike needs a warmer plug.
A bike burning oil and ridden around town requires an even hotter plug to keep from oil fouling.
I cannot get into heat range numbers because every manufacturer has a different system and description.
With a Harley plug, a number 4 is a warm plug.
A number 5 is a colder plug.
A number 8 is colder yet.
And finally, I too hope the weather is good next week for the Rally. They used to hold it in the first week of October and it was always blazing hot or a hurricane would threaten it.
They smartly moved it to the end of October and things got better, aside from Ike wiping it out last year.
pg
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
Last edited by piniongear; 10-22-2009 at 11:26 PM.
i have always heard bluestreak was top of the line.maybe they WERE top of the line i dunno.they use to be popular in the hotrod world anyway.i specifically asked for them at several locations and was informed that the company no longer existed...that they were taken over by someone else/sold under new name/whatever but that company is no longer in business either.
pinion did you double check the part number on the package?? i know probably yes but just askin....
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there is no try.only do or dont do.--yoda.
i have always heard bluestreak was top of the line.maybe they WERE top of the line i dunno.they use to be popular in the hotrod world anyway.i specifically asked for them at several locations and was informed that the company no longer existed...that they were taken over by someone else/sold under new name/whatever but that company is no longer in business either.
pinion did you double check the part number on the package?? i know probably yes but just askin....
The Blue Streak from J&P is part #H/D-Kit 1
Points and condenser in the package.
Says it fits:
1971-E1978 XL Models
1971-E1978 FLH
1971-E1978 FX Models
Well, it might fit a shovel, but it does not fit a Sportster.
Please understand that my complaint is not so much with Blue Streak as a manufacturer, but as far as the statement they print on the package as to what it will fit is not correct. There is where I have the problem. And I have a problem with J&P (and any others) who sell this as fitting a Sportster.
Also, I do not knock Chevy points made by Blue Streak. They are fine points. The ones I got from J&P are finely made points. They just do not work in a Sportster.
Now for the fellow who said he was lucky because he has used Blue Streak points for a Chevy for 17 years........
He has not been lucky! He has simply been using Blue Streak points, made for a Chevy, that will also work on his Sportster.
I have no problem with that at all and I truly believe him.
The Blue Streak points I bought will not work in his Sportster however.
So I have to still say what J&P sells is the wrongly mislabeled product. That is the crux of my complaint with Blue Streak and J&P combined.
pg
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
PG, in all your years of working on the old Ironheads did you ever have the idea to do away with the small lobe, or the big lobe (grind, machine, or what ever) so you only have one lobe and then you could get your .018 every time. Because it fires both wires, wouldn't that work???? Just wondering, I don't plan on doing it. Ride safe.
PG, in all your years of working on the old Ironheads did you ever have the idea to do away with the small lobe, or the big lobe (grind, machine, or what ever) so you only have one lobe and then you could get your .018 every time. Because it fires both wires, wouldn't that work???? Just wondering, I don't plan on doing it. Ride safe.
No have never given it a thought. And I would not want to either.
The sharp lobe (front cylinder) rises quickly......peaks........then falls just as quick as it went up.
The rear cylinder lobe is more rounded and has a greater range between going up and going down.
I guess the proper term for that is 'dwell'. I am certainly no engineer but I believe the different shape is due to the position of the rear piston at a given time. The 2 cylinders are 45° opposed, but the moving pistons are in different respective places in their cylinders at a given moment. That does not make sense but it is the only way to describe it.
So the rounded shape is required for that rear cylinder, but it takes an engineer to figure that one out. Just thinking about it gives me a headache.
Now, you cannot remove one lobe because even though both wires fire at the same time, you have to think of where the piston is and where the valves are positioned when this fire happens. More engineering stuff involved here.
When the sharp lobe opens the points to signal the coil to fire both plugs only the front cylinder is on compression stroke.
At this time the rear cylinder is on the exhaust (or overlap) stroke.
When that plug sparks no power is produced because the valves are open.
When the rounded lobe comes around next to open the points the cylinder conditions are reversed and it is the rear cylinder that has compression. You need both lobes to run a 2 cylinder engine.
Remove a cylinder and you could then remove an ignition cam lobe as well.
That's about the best I can explain it as I understand the subject.
pg
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
"Miles are kept by how many times you fill up"
one lobe?
