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I took some pics of my points. Judging from what you have said, I think replacing the seal would be premature. I think I'll be ok, but let me know what you think. (if I can get the pic's to post!). Woohoo! Got it!
Something else I found tonight was that my voltage regulator was not grounded well. Would that cause hard starting if the bike was hooked up to a battery charger while I was kicking?
Well I'm going to try changing the points and condenser when they get here. I think i might have access to a CV carb off of a 90's fat boy. I'll change that. Hopefully I don't have any jetting issues. Uh, does a mikuni have jets or rely solely on a diaphragm? My oil level is closer to where it's supposed to be. I think we're getting closer.
Thanks again for all the help.
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After giving myself some time to calm down and absorb all of the aforementioned info, I now see that I'll just have to get rid of all of the oil in my bike. I put 2 different kinds in. Castrol GTX in the oil tank and Rotella T in the primary when I initially started this process.Because there is a transfer valve, will I want to run the same oil in the engine and transmission?
To effectively drain entire oiling system and not risk overfilling, what do I do.
Here is what I believe I am supposed to do. Please correct me where I am wrong.(This ain't no chevy. Small block!)
1. Pull plug in bottom of primary and drain oil.
2. Pull plug in oil tank and drain all oil.
3. Leave plugs out for 1/2 hour or so to allow complete draining. Will this allow some of the excess oil in the crank case to flow through the transfer valve and out the primary drain?
4. Replace all plugs.
5. Put 1 1/2 pints of oil in top hole of primary.
6. Put 1 quart of same oil into oil tank.
7. Upon engine start up,pay close attention to oil level in tank , and add oil as necessary.
And as far as the bike not wanting to start, I'll go back to basics. Change points and condensor. Gap points to .018. Check static timing. Check for spark. And swap out the carb for a more reliable unit.
Does this sound like it will work? Is there anything I'm missing?
I put 2 different kinds in. Castrol GTX in the oil tank and Rotella T in the primary when I initially started this process.Because there is a transfer valve, will I want to run the same oil in the engine and transmission?
You will want to use the same oil. What I use in my 1971 is Harley 60wt.......for both the engine and trans/primary. I recommend you use it too.
To effectively drain entire oiling system and not risk overfilling, what do I do.
1. Pull plug in bottom of primary and drain oil. Yes.
2. Pull plug in oil tank and drain all oil. Yes.
3. Leave plugs out for 1/2 hour or so to allow complete draining. Will this allow some of the excess oil in the crank case to flow through the transfer valve and out the primary drain? No. Leave the plugs a reasonable time (until the oil drain is a drip, drip. That should happen fairly quick, but take as long as you like. 10 minutes should be fine.
No on the transfer valve allowing oil to flow to the primary.
This valve lets pressure in the crankcase transfer over to the primary (which has a vent hole in the cap). As the pressure goes through the transfer valve, some oil mist goes with that, but a very, very small amount of oil.
You are never going to completely drain every drop of oil out of the engine, so do not expect that to happen. There is always going to be a small amount of oil sitting in the scavenger section of the oil pump, waiting to be pumped back to the tank. And that is fine. Look at it this way..... When you change the oil you are changing most of the oil, but not 100%
4. Replace all plugs. Yes.
5. Put 1 1/2 pints of oil in top hole of primary. Yes.
6. Put 1 quart of same oil into oil tank. No. Pour in all the oil that the tank holds (Up to the fill mark). On a standard center mount oil tank this is 3 quarts.
7. Upon engine start up,pay close attention to oil level in tank , and add oil as necessary. Yes, but don't be expecting to add any oil. You already have the old oil that still sits in the scavenger section of the pump and that is going to be pumped back to the tank as the new oil you just changed begins to pump into the engine.
And as far as the bike not wanting to start, I'll go back to basics. Change points and condensor. Gap points to .018. Check static timing. Check for spark.
And swap out the carb for a more reliable unit. I recommend you do not put a carb off a Fatboy on the Sportster. Your bike should have a 38mm carb. The larger displacement machine will use a 40mm or even a 42mm size carb, and this is too large a carb for a Sportster.
In addition, there may be throttle cable issues to deal with. Does the replacement carb have twin throttle cables? Which direction opens the carb? This is affected by which side of the carb the cable connects to. Without any details I have no way of knowing if another brand of carb would work, but I do know that a carb off a Fatboy is going to be too large.
Does this sound like it will work? Is there anything I'm missing? See below.
Thanks again.
I hope the above answers your questions. Now, when it comes to installing the points and timing the engine I am sure you will have a few questions about that.
You will need a timing light.
You should have a plexiglas plug to screw into the timing hole. You should also have a manual to guide you through the steps.
pg
__________________
Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
Thanks for the insight and clarification. I tend to get a little wound up when I think I broke something! Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have time to get going on what we have discussed. I just got my timing and advance kit tonight. It has the cam, backing plate coil wire, points , condenser, and all the hardware. For now I'm just going to change the points and condenser. I'm takin' my manual to work with me tomorrow and readin up when I get time and I'm going to check out that video on you tube again.
Here's the link if you feel like checking it out. I realize ya probably don't need it, but if there is any mis-guidance in it ,PLEASE let me know before I tear into it.
As for the carb, I'm looking into the one mentioned by another post-er earlier in this thread. Ever hear of Sudco? It does have a single cable pull, and a 38 mm body.
Thanks.
As for the carb, I'm looking into the one mentioned by another post-er earlier in this thread. Ever hear of Sudco? It does have a single cable pull, and a 38 mm body.
Thanks.
Sudco? Sure, they are who sell Mikuni carbs.
38mm is what you want and single cable is good.
A Mikuni VM-38 is the best carb you can get for a Sportster, in my opinion.
pg
__________________
Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
oily points
Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have time to get going on what we have discussed. I just got my timing and advance kit tonight. It has the cam, backing plate coil wire, points , condenser, and all the hardware. For now I'm just going to change the points and condenser. I'm takin' my manual to work with me tomorrow and readin up when I get time and I'm going to check out that video on you tube again.
