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75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems

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Old 06-14-2009, 12:24 PM
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Default 75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems

Hi, I'm having problems with my starting assembly on my 75 Ironhead. I have the solenoid (brand new) and starter (brand new) assembly on my workbench. I have run jumpers from a good car battery to the solenoid with the plunger sitting in it and it seems to pull in fast and strong. When I put the spring in and bolt it up it doesn't pull in as good. When I hook up the arm to the jackshaft then it pulls in slow and maybe not all the way. Does the plunger and spring go bad? Should I replace them also? Is there a wrong way to bolt it up? It appears that after bolting it up it is a little cocked because of the bolts on one side and the rubber boot pushing against the solenoid. Can anyone give me some pointers?
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Old 06-14-2009, 05:37 PM
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It should not be crooked. Mounted correctly it should sit flat against the starter housing.

In my experience it is a difficult install, requiring lots of care and patience. I use zip ties to get the oil lines out of the way. I very carefully start the two bolts using a 1/4" drive, 7/16" socket on a 6" extension, turning them in with fingers only; then use the ratchet to final tighten; keeping in mind that they are steel bolts going into aluminum and it is easy to strip the aluminum threads. On my bike the top hole is already stripped so i use a longer bolt to go right thru to a nylock nut.
 
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Old 06-14-2009, 06:09 PM
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I'm not sure if I have the boot in the correct position. The old boot was all chewed up and a mess. It appears that the boot is not letting the solenoid sit square when I bolt it up.
 
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by marksjeff
I'm not sure if I have the boot in the correct position. The old boot was all chewed up and a mess. It appears that the boot is not letting the solenoid sit square when I bolt it up.
There are good pics in the parts book, in the factory manual, and in the Clymer and Haynes manuals. The factory manual and parts book are absolute must haves if you are to work on these bikes. The other two, while more optional, are really handy to have.

I might be able to help you if you can post a pic of your parts in the installation order. But the only real solution to the problem is to have the manuals.
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 08:56 AM
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there is also a spacer that goes between cyl and the case well my 76 does i didnt see it fall out when i replaced mine and when installing new one it would get cocked at an angle found the spacer and everything went good might want to check that
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:13 PM
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Here is the cocked solenoid and the plunger
 
Attached Thumbnails 75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems-sol-kink-1.jpg   75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems-plunger-1.jpg  
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:20 PM
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This is how I installed the boot in the housing and on the plunger. I'm not sure it the 2 pins on the shaft are correct. When I took this apart the old boot was ripped up and inside the housing. It looks like somebody beat up the shaft on the plunger so I'm not sure if these pins are the correct size or in the right spot. Also I'm not sure if the boot is in the correct position. Should the boot be between the 2 pins?
 
Attached Thumbnails 75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems-boot-on-plunger-1.jpg   75 Ironhead solenoid/starter problems-boot-fitted.jpg  

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Old 06-16-2009, 08:12 PM
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Can anybody help figure out this mystery?
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:26 PM
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Been awhile since mine was apart, but I think I slide the boot on and then put the pin in the hole closest to the plunger. Then put it in and put the other pin in the outer hole after installing the small spring and retainer cap(cupped looking washer)..but like I say, its been awhile. It does look like the solenoid is cocked. If its on the bench, wouldn't hurt to try it with boot on first then putting pin in. Might let it seat better. Hopefully someone without oldtimers will come along that CAN still remember ****.
 
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Old 06-17-2009, 05:13 AM
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Thanks for all of the input on this tricky problem!
 


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