Has anyone checked the crankshaft runout on the primary side? Book says .003 maximum at flange face. I am mainly interested in just how much the normal run out will be on the drive sprocket. I pulled the compensator and took off the sliding cam and put the compensator outer spring cover on reversed to tighten it back up. Removed the clutch plates. With sparkplugs out I can crank engine with socket and I get about .006 run out on the od of the spline shaft extension (what the sprocket fits on) Is .006 OK.

 

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What is the runout on the cam side?

 

Have been in that side (see album) but did not indicate it since I have original tensioners. Went in primary second time looking for an odd noise.

Just got thru checking it all out in primary. Pulled clutch hub and clutch plates. The massive balling bearing in the hub looked and felt brand new. From the outer side after cleaning the oil off the inner primary bearing it was fine. No wear on the pressed on race and all the rollers were smooth. With it all torn down and the wheel off and the cog belt pushed back I can turn the inner clutch shaft and fill all the gears and bearings. Put the clutch back together and snugged up the clutch adjuster so it drove the throw out bearing and it felt smooth. I checked crank on the smooth area were the spacer is for the side oil seal to the block is. The runout is only .0008 on an .0001 dial indicator. (less then .001) I managed to index the shaft extension on the crank 180 and with some bearings used as spacers to tighten it up was able to indicate of the smooth round area were the sprocket can turn within the range of the compensator fingers. Amazingly it runs within .0015. Plan on using the auto tensioner and prime and apply loctite and torque the primary the new 45-50 degree method.

 

.006 is a lot of runout.

 

Note my updated post 4. The .006 was way out on the extension on the od of the spline were the slideing cam is. The actual crank back were I should have been checking is less then .001 Amazing to me for 40K of turning and wear. Actually no wear would be a better word for it.

 

What is the real question? Why are you ?????

 

One of my albums shows back at 30K when due to noise I went into primary after dealer was in it only to discover the alternator rotor spline was stripped and chain was out of alignment. Replaced the parts but still seemed to have a lot of runout causing the chain tension to very more then the adjust range of 5/8-3/4. Also an odd noise when everything is warmed up. I needed to replace tire, so I pulled it back apart to see why I had so much runout. As true as it all is, I am thinking it's the chain but even the pitch seems to be pretty even on it.

I always drop the manual tensioner down to the bottom of the primary to loosen and tighten the clutch and primary nuts. With the auto tensioner do you take it completely out to do the clutch and primary nuts? I am replacing the manual one with the auto one and my 04 manual does not cover the auto one.

 

Got it all back together. Interesting thing about auto tensioner. I could not get the initial 1" play with it completely closed. Figured 7/8 was close. Tighten it all up and released the lock. Flipped the chain like it said and it ratcheted up a couple bumps. Turned it a few turns and it ranched one more time. Set the chain at 1/2. Bit tight for what 04 book says. Oh, well see what happens. Also interesting how the clutch adjuster is since I had the disk out. Sure until it get full of oil its going to grab on startup.

 

Seems you already have your answers. I'm with badwhine, what is the purpose of your OP? And what does your albums have to do with it? Vinyl or 45's?