I just finished the install of Wild 1 WO577 12.5” Apes on my 2 week old FLHX. I figured I would post a couple pics as well as a few tips on things I ran into. The pics didn’t come out that great because it was late in the day and very overcast, the bike looks black instead of Merlot since you can’t see the usually bright red flake that pops in the sunlight.

The job was pretty straight forward without any issues but I do have a few tips that could make it easier for the next guy. Be prepared to have your new bike stripped down as you can see in my last pic.

Parts List
Wild 1 WO577 Chubby 12.5 Apes - $200
Magnum Chromite II +6 Clutch Cable - $70
Magnum Chromite II Mid Brake Line & +6 Upper Brake Line - $120 (see tip below to save $)
Namz +8 Wire extension Kit - $50
Namz Fly-By-Wire extended Cable - $40
2 bottles Dot 4 brake fluid

I also installed Avon Air Cushioned grips, I don’t recommend them. The 1” section on the bar ends is short while the grips are long. The Avon's are not sleeved and are just rubber with end caps. On the clutch side the grips are longer than the bars and flex where they extend past the bar, plus they are junk glue on grips. I will be replacing with a good set of Harley grips.

Tip Removing The Bars
Once you have the outer fairing and switch cap off you need only to move the radio forward a few inches, no need to remove it. There are 2 hex screws on each side of the radio with limited and skewed access. Use a ball end hex. If you opt to remove the radio good luck with the antenna wire, it isn’t just a normal coaxial connector and I have yet been able to figure it out and have broken one trying. I recommend just sliding the radio forward out of the way.

Tips for Wiring
The recommendation from Wild One was +6, this is perfect for the brake and clutch, Namz offers either a 4 or 8 extension kit, I went 8 but doing it again I would go 12. Having extra length would be better. Everything fit fine I but couldn’t use the stock placement of the connectors, the extra 4” from the 12" kit would have been much better.

The nice thing about the 12.5’s was I was able to feed the stock length wires through the bars and then add the extension which made the job easier. Taller bars would have required me to have to add extensions first then feed them through the bars, the area where the extension connect can get pretty bulky and make it much more difficult to feed through, especially with the Fly-By-Wire cable in the bars as it has two molex style connections inside the bars.

Don’t use any electrical tape on the wires when you’re trying to pull them through the bars. I have learned to use only braided fishing line (or waxed thread), wrap the **** out of the wires starting at the sheathing all the way to the tips and tie off leaving a couple extra feet to tie a weight to. Drop the weight through the bars and pull the wires through… very easy. I also added baby powder in the bars and on the sheathing of the FBW cable and the control wires. This lets the 2 cables slip by each other much better when you need to pull the FBW cable to set the throttle in place. The molex connector on the FBW needs to be pulled past the top bend while your other wires are in place. This is the toughest part and the powder helps a lot.

If you are able to pull the wires all the way through before you add the extensions I highly recommend putting the connectors back together with the extensions first before you connect them to the wires in the bars. The connectors are easier to assemble when the wires ends are free. Once you have the connectors built with the extensions then slip the heat shield on and connect them to the bar wire. If you can do it in this fashion you can get away with just using the quick connections rather than soldering. Soldering is always recommended if your bars are taller and you have to pull them through the bars pre-extended.

Clutch Cable Tip
Do not have the bike on a stand or jack when taking the trap door off unless you drain the tranny. If you have it on the kick stand you will lose 1 – 2oz of tranny fluid. If you have the wheels on a 2X4 with the kickstand on the ground the angle will be enough to lose no tranny fluid and eliminate any mess without having to drain the fluid first.

The new Magnum cable has very limited inner cable length once its connected in the tranny. I assume this is to allow the cable stretch that will naturally happen over time. However it is difficult to get enough slack (even with the cable adjustment completely collapsed). I recommend connecting it in the trap door and the clutch lever before you put the trap door back on. I was unable to get enough slack to connect it to the lever and had to take the trap door back off, connect the lever end and then connect the tranny end... then put the trap door back on.

Tips Brake line with ABS
The stock line is one piece that runs from the master cylinder under the tank (reason for removing tank) to the ABS black under the right side cover. The Magnum cable is 2 piece, what they call a mid line and a upper that just connect together. The reason is that with the 2 piece you can always disconnect the brake line from inside and fairing and only replace a short length if you need more length for taller bars. Good idea. The mid line cable is one length, the extension is on the upper shorter cable only. Also since you don’t see the mid line you can buy the cheaper plastic shield instead of the Chromite II. I didn’t realize this and spent the $ for the mideline in Chromite and no one but me will ever see it. A little note, I ddint know the with the new 2009 and up frame they removed the crossover line that ran under the frame from the gas tank! I was so happy to learn this. Now 1 bolt on each side of the tank, 2 under the seat, 2 vent lines under the seat, a wiring connector under the seat, and the check valve gas line to the tank and the tank is off with not one drop of gas spilled… even with a full tank. It’s so easy that anytime I am working where the potential for tank scratches exists I will just remove it. 5 min job even for a shade tree mechanic like myself.

The front brake line attaches to the ABS block marked FM (front master?) and is the rear outside connection. After connecting the brake line to the master leave it off the ABS block. With the ABS end in a can to catch fluid fill the master and squeeze slowly to prefill the line and quickly attach to the ABS block. Then bleed as normal. After normal bleeding from the front I had good brakes. Someone said that the bikes with ABS need to get bled by the dealers with the Harley Digital Technician, I don’t know if this is needed, my brakes seem pretty good now.

Now the pics…

My son on the bike to show ride position.




Just a couple shots.












Scary to see my 2 week old bike in this state.

 

With the taller bars that how can you see in your rearview mirrors? I have slightly taller than stock bars on my RKC, but the mirrors attach to the bars themselves unlike a fairing bike where the mirrors are set in the fairing. Just kind of curious when I get a new bike someday.

 

Fair question... I can't.

Well, with a little head movement and I can see ok but it's far from ideal.

I have a new painted inner fairing on order without the holes for the fairing mirrors. In the mean time I didn't want 2 sets of mirrors and figured I would just make do. It may take a while for HD to deliver my inner fairing so I might just have to install the new mirrors and take the faring ones off and block the holes.

 

mirrors are over rated... Nice SG!

 

Got about 500 mi on my 577s on my 08 SG. Super comfortable and if I lean back a bit the stock mirrors work fine. Mig welding wire works great for pulling the wires thru the bars. I didn't have to use wire extensions, just rerouted the fairing side of the control harness down each side of the radio. You will really like them.

 

I put the same bars on my 2009 SG. Love them, no more back pain, I'm 6'6" and the stock bars hunched me over. The issue I am having is my clutch adjustment by the crash bar only has about 2 or 3 threads in the sleeve. Basically about to fall out, and there is still play in the lever. Too much play anyhow. Anyone seen this or have any suggestions

 

Did you replace the clutch cable?

My new Magnum cable was the exact opposite, even with the adjuster all the way collapsed I didn't have enough slack to install the lever, I had to install on the lever and then on the ramp. Since then it has stretched some, I have just started to expand the adjuster to take up the little slack. I guess this is good, I have plenty of adjustment left to accommodate for cable stretch as time passes.

Sounds like yours has stretched too far.

 

I changed my clutch cable out with an extended one. I need to look back and see which one I ordered. I think I need to adjust my clutch internally behind the derby cover. Banging my head against the wall on this one.

 

Loosen you cable adjuster all the way lose, take off your derby cover. Back off the retaining nut from the center of the clutch, then back out the adjuster a couple turns (hex in the middle of the retaining nut). Now start to turn in (tighten) the adjuster hex until you feel it just start to touch, then back it out 1 1/4 turns and lock down the retaining nut. Then adjust your cable adjuster until you have a dime's thickness of play in the cable.

 

You can't go wrong with Wild 1, good product and good people to deal with. Informative post and nice SG.