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  #21  
Old 10-05-2009, 09:10 AM
cdestuck cdestuck is online now
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Might even check with your local vo tech school to see if they offer a powder puff mechanics course. Although their usually for cars, they still give ya the same basic knowledge you will use on bikes. Once you get your confidence built up on this, youll do great
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  #22  
Old 10-05-2009, 09:35 AM
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Teh fix my hog dvds are excellent. I highly recommend them. The service manual is also invaluable and will give you all the torque specs so you "know what tight is". The dvds will give yo ua good tool list also so you know what to buy. Two torque wrenches for starters. inch lb wrench and foot lb wrench. T27 torx is also very popular on our bikes.
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  #23  
Old 10-05-2009, 01:53 PM
piasspj piasspj is offline
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Haven't seen the videos but might not be a bad idea, if you have a friend to call when you need help that is better.


Get the service manual and the parts manual for your bike (sometimes the parts manual has better pictures) also the parts manual has part numbers so you know which parts to order.

There are a few styles of Torque wrenches, some brands are more expensive than others. The electronic ones are overkill for most.

While the quality of some Harbor freight tools is poor the torque wrenches aren't bad. They tested as good or better than many more expensive tools. Even if you don't get HF, this is the style (size) you should get to start.

3/8 drive ft lb wrench, you will use it often.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=807

Here is the Inlb 1/4" drive.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2696

If you don't have a socket set, get one that has at least 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive.
It is cheaper to buy a large set with SAE and Metric 12 point, 6 point and deep well sockets than it is to purchase the individual sets. Watch for sales, join the craftsman club if your going to buy tools at Sears.

Same with other wrenches. Adding individual wrenches (to get the seldom used sizes) is expensive.
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  #24  
Old 10-05-2009, 02:25 PM
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CroK CroK is offline
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A chick with tools... I'm salivating here!
Go for it doll, you'd be surprised how easy most of this stuff is really. I think 'they' want us to believe it's difficult so they might justify thier charges.

We have been convinced, both methodically and systematically, that we cannot do anything for ourselves so that we have no choice but to accept shoddy workmanship and a poor grade of goods.
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  #25  
Old 10-05-2009, 02:52 PM
9Roadking9 9Roadking9 is offline
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very easy and cost effective to change fluids in all 3 holes, good luck.
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  #26  
Old 10-05-2009, 03:11 PM
BigLowRider BigLowRider is offline
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Don't use blue or <gasp> red Loctite on your drain plugs. Use the white Loctite (Permatex) with teflon. Try NAPA if you have difficulties finding it.

The manuals do not call for using Loctite on drain plugs but most dealers do use it.

BigLow
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  #27  
Old 10-05-2009, 03:16 PM
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One thing I can recommend is get the oil filter from K&N it has a bolt head welded at the end which is the same size as the drain plugs on the bike. I'll verify and re-post. Also, if you forget the o-rings from the dealer you can match them up at any parts store like Auto Zone. they have assorted size o-rings. I forgot once and got the replacement from them. to gain some leverage get a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter then you can use a 1/2 drive breaker bar to loosen the drain plugs. don't over think the process of doing maintenance on the bike. It is simple once you determined your course of action. Good luck.
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  #28  
Old 10-05-2009, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CroK View Post
A chick with tools... I'm salivating here!
Can I bring my bike down !

I bought my service manual when I bought the bike.
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  #29  
Old 10-05-2009, 03:42 PM
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Hi all,

What no one has said is it's a whole lot easier to change your oil on the side stand by just slipping a pan under your bike. I use a 5 gal jug with the side cut out of it. Oil plug points forward tranny points down and don't take out the allen plug. Your owners manual has the torques and capacitys so if that's all you plan on doing don't waste your money on a service manual. The other thing is if you pulled on a wrench with 2 fingers being a girls that would be plenty tight for the oil, primary and tranny plugs (14 -21 ft pd) and just snug on the derby screws, bottom them out and 1/8th of a turn 1,3,5,2, and 4. I have torque wrenchs but have yet to use them on a service. On more thing don't by a strap wrench just get an expanding metal one that fits your filter cuz there is about 4 sizes and wipe it off before you use it so you don't scratch you new chrome filter, oh and about 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn after the rubber seats and make sure you put grease on the gasket.

Kevin

Last edited by cowboy-bc; 10-05-2009 at 04:00 PM.
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  #30  
Old 10-05-2009, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlamedFXR View Post
When working with axles & spacers take close-up digital pics in case you get the spacers out of order. Jump in and get your fingernails dirty!
+1 on the digital camera, and not just for axles & spacers. I routinely take lots of pictures when doing anything new or especially complicated. Just scroll back thru them if you get stuck later!
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2008, 38, breaker, changeing, changing, davidson, drain, drive, flht, fluids, fxd, harley, oil, plug, ring, size


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