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I also tried cleaning the pistons on the calipers as mentioned and it worked. What a difference. Before doing it, the lever was just about touching the grip, now it doesn't even come close. This was on my wife's 03 Road King.
I haven't experienced this myself, but I do know there's a reason HD went back to DOT 4 after using DOT 5 for awhile. I have friends who've rebuilt brake systems in older collector cars and used DOT 5, and every one of 'em went back to either 3 or 4 because of spongy feeling brakes and leaks in systems not designed for 5. I just can't believe any dealer would switch from 5 to 4 or vice versa without doing a complete disassembly of both the caliper and master cylinder, as there's no way in hell you could ever flush it well enough to say you'd completely eliminated all the old fluid, and 5 is totally incompatible with any other type of DOT fluid. Also, as some people I have talked to found out the hard way, DOT 5, which is a silicone based fluid, may attack the seals in systems designed for 3 or 4, as a lot of the seals in these systems are made from silcone based rubber, and 3 and 4 aren't so hot for systems designed for 5 either. This isn't something you want to go changing back and forth on a whim.
I haven't experienced this myself, but I do know there's a reason HD went back to DOT 4 after using DOT 5 for awhile. I have friends who've rebuilt brake systems in older collector cars and used DOT 5, and every one of 'em went back to either 3 or 4 because of spongy feeling brakes and leaks in systems not designed for 5. I just can't believe any dealer would switch from 5 to 4 or vice versa without doing a complete disassembly of both the caliper and master cylinder, as there's no way in hell you could ever flush it well enough to say you'd completely eliminated all the old fluid, and 5 is totally incompatible with any other type of DOT fluid. Also, as some people I have talked to found out the hard way, DOT 5, which is a silicone based fluid, may attack the seals in systems designed for 3 or 4, as a lot of the seals in these systems are made from silcone based rubber, and 3 and 4 aren't so hot for systems designed for 5 either. This isn't something you want to go changing back and forth on a whim.
+1 to the 10th power. Ive said this at least a dozen times on another thread, some folks just dont want to do something the right way. I just hope no one crashes over it.
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07 Roadglide
103 kit. 510 cams 108hp/113tq With Kuryakin Crushers
VANCE AND HINES BLACK MONSTER OVALS now 96HP/105TQ with tons of low end torque. Very happy with the results, even with less power output.
So in 03 they used dot5 now they are back to dot4? and the concensus is stay with what you have for your model year? Or as most seem convinced dot5 is an issue so if I have a bike with dot5 should I consider going to dot4?
From the info I have the reason for the change from DOT 5 to DOT 4 was because of ABS. DOT 5 airates with the rapid pulsation of the ABS. This came out on Police bikes before the public got ABS.
Haven’t any body here heard of vacuum bleeding?
If done correctly you will not have to gravity bleed again & it is the only way to bleed new lines 100%.
My 1990 FXSTS worked for awhile with very hard front brake lever effort. Now there is nothing. The lever pulls all the way back with no resistance and I have no front brakes. There was fluid in the reservoir when I checked and still no braking. Any ideas?
I think I may have this problem with my 04 electraglide. Pads are good, fluid is new and I bled them for way too long. Even rebuilt my master cylinder, and still have too much travel in the brake lever. Dealer says change the pads lol. I'm going to try your method and if it works I may rebuild the calipers. (then go down and get a job at the harley shop) Thanks from Toledo, Ohio.
There is actually a very easy fix for this soft brake lever. I have a 01 Road King, the lever was very soft from day one. The dealer told me normal. Well I know that it is not normal but what are you gonna do. Any way the issue here is that the pistons in the calipers are sticky and are getting sucked back into the caliper. All you need to do to correct this is to clean up the pistons in the caliper. Start with the Clutch side take it off and hang it up with some string if you do not have a helper. Then work the lever until the pads are touching together, it will take several times for this to happen and you may have to keep at it for a bit until they actually touch together. I work then lever until it gets firm and the pads are fully touching. Then take some brake clean and a tooth brush and clean off the build up on the pistons. make sure you get them good. Now the fun part is getting the pistons back into the calipers. I use a big screw driver and pry them apart and then just kinda work them back in. Bolt them back up then repeat with the other side. You will, be amazed at the difference in lever feel. It is like a new bike. This will not permanently fix the issue but you should get a few months before you have to do it again.[/align][/align][/align][/align][/align]
You were right on the money with this solution. A very easy fix and the best part is I didn't have to pay anyone. Thanks for the heads up. I bought this 04 electraglide last year and never liked the front brake. All the dealer would say is replace the pads. Well the pads are about half but the brake works as close to new I'm sure. I even walked through the dealer here and checked the pulls on the used bikes they were selling - most had the same soft pull, one was worse than mine. When I questioned this they really didn't have an answer, but suggested I bleed mine- almost wanted to tell them they needed to bleed almost everyone of the obnes they had. Oh well THANKS again and be safe!
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