http://hdforums.com/forum en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:53:13 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:hdforums.com/get/forum//images/kirsch/misc/rss.jpg http://hdforums.com/forum http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448983-96-andrews-26h-new-post.html Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:14:19 GMT Hi there,
I have an 09 FLHT with SE intake, V&H slip-ons and V&H FuelPak installed. What can one expect by just dropping in a set of cams such as the Andrews 26h ? I ride primarily 1 up and do like th open up the throttle on occasion. Looking for the pros/cons. Thx for any input, Troop ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust troop http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448983-96-andrews-26h.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448931-vanch-and-hines-classic-slip-ons-new-post.html Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:17:48 GMT i have a road king (06 bought used) the exhust has no baffles. no dealer has the replacement.... i have a road king (06 bought used) the exhust has no baffles. no dealer has the replacement. because the newer model pipe was upgraded and baffle installation is different. (mine have two small screws on bottom rear of pipe) should i bother drilling out the new baffles so they stay in, seek out the correct baffles or just leave it loud and proud? any help or ideas are welcome
keith ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust kaiser343 http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448931-vanch-and-hines-classic-slip-ons.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448924-vance-and-hines-ovals-new-post.html Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:48:18 GMT I have a set of V&H Ovals on my Ultra. One of the baffles is rusty and I want to replace it. Has anyone removed the baffles out of one of these mufflers? I removed the 2 screws holding it in place and used a broom handle, per V&H tech advice, to tap the inside of the baffle. Baffle broke loose eventually but it looks like the inner "ring" inside the muffler should come out too. Any help/advice would be appreciatted. ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust 2001Roadking http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448924-vance-and-hines-ovals.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448815-hd-break-in-rules-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:22:25 GMT What's the deal with the break in on new motors? The book says not to keep the same rpm steady for long periods of time, and how long is long?
Thanks ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust keith t http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448815-hd-break-in-rules.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448792-port-and-polish-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:12:49 GMT Anyone know of a good shop I can have my '98 evo heads ported & polished in the East Texas area. I'm not havin much luck finding one. Or should I just have them sent off?
Thanks, ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust 999red999 http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448792-port-and-polish.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448733-hooker-troublemakers-and-fuel-injection-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:02:33 GMT Posted as a reply in the Sportster forum, but thought I'd throw in here as a new thread...

I just bought a used 08 1200S with the Screamin' Eagle air upgrade, Hooker Troublemaker pipes and a V & H fuelpak fuel system. The bike does not run smooth at all. Idles rough, accelerating is a little shaky, mid range seems okay, but when I cruise in 5th at about 45 mph bike seems to be missing, bogs and just not smooth. Have been in touch with Tech Support at V & H and we confirmed they are Troublemakers and original map settings on the fuelpak were correct. I just changed some of the settings as instructed. It was zero here yesterday when I fired it up, bit of snow. Idle seems better, but won't road test til Monday. The guys at V & H are great, will be following up again after the road test to see if new settings solved the issue or still need to tweak a little more.

Anyone else with a troublemaker/FI setup that experienced anything like this?

Previously had an 2003 Softail Standard with fuel injection. I installed Porker Switchblades and a fuelpak, dialed in settings and it was like magic. Bike never gave me a problem, ran great with no popping. Smooth and powerful.

I can only assume previous owner - who put about 3000 miles on the bike ran it like this for some time and may have thought it was normal to buck and kick. Anyone offer suggestions on other areas I should be investigating? Plugs, etc...? ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust HDRoach http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448733-hooker-troublemakers-and-fuel-injection.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448728-one-adjustable-push-rod-has-come-loose-three-times-now-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:45:08 GMT First time one came loose (front cylinder - intake) was about 2K after installation of new lifters.... First time one came loose (front cylinder - intake) was about 2K after installation of new lifters.

I had a build done without replacing the lifters and got a ticking in the top end after about 2.5K and had the lifters replaced. Ticking went away. This would have been the first time the pushrods had been touched since being installed new.

The intake pushrod let go about 100 miles from the house so I had the bike trailered back home and discovered the intake pushrod on the front cylinder was flopping around with a loose jam nut and had shortened itself by about a 1/2".

Pulled the rocker box cover and found nothing to indicate anything had broken (I shut it down within 15 seconds of hearing it let go), re-installed it, adjusted it and took it for a spin.

Let go the second time within a couple of miles of the house and limped it back.

Took all the pushrods out, installed each one properly giving the 20 min bleed down to assure the pushrod could be turned easily before moving on to the next.

Took it for a test ride and it came loose after seven miles. Tightened it back up on the side of the road and brought it back home.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Now I'm wondering if there is an internal problem causing the pushrod to loosen up in the first place of if the jam nut/threads might be stretched and no longer will hold torque or, if there is something I am missing.

These are the screaming eagle adjustable pushrods but not the tapered ones.

I'm thinking I should replace all four with something else but I'm not seeing any definitive consensus about who makes the best adjustable pushrods. I'm thinking I should install tapered because I am seeing some scuffing where they appear to be touching the head.

'06 Dyna Twin cam 88 "A" - 95" w/andrews 54H and heads shaved 0.050" running a cometic 0.030" gasket.

Any thoughts appreciated. ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust sniper77 http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448728-one-adjustable-push-rod-has-come-loose-three-times-now.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448653-is-this-the-right-bearing-to-replace-when-changing-cams-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:06:21 GMT Hi, is this the right bearing to change when changing cams on an 09/10 96" motor? I keep hearing about Torrrington bearings but couldn't find them.

JIMS Inner Cam bearing $9.99 Replaces OEM 9215 (times 2 of course)

Thanks for any advice. ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust thewholehog http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448653-is-this-the-right-bearing-to-replace-when-changing-cams.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448646-compression-release-valves-close-w-o-engine-starting-is-that-normal-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:43:20 GMT I was trying to start engine ( it didn't run for several months) and noticed that comp. release valves close (buttons go up) w/o engine starting. They close after probably 2 revolutions and then starter couldn't turn engine anymore.
It is 99 Ultra with "Screaming Eagle" marked head, another head says "CNC ported"
Should I replace them? ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust car5car http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448646-compression-release-valves-close-w-o-engine-starting-is-that-normal.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448542-08-hydraulic-cam-tensioners-new-post.html Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:49:43 GMT Was wondering if anyone has had any issues with the 07 and newer style hydraulic cam tensioners? ... Was wondering if anyone has had any issues with the 07 and newer style hydraulic cam tensioners?

My valve train is ticking badly on start up, decel and hard acceleration. Once the oil pressure is up or while Im cruising the valve train is quiet. I just replaced the tappets. I have screamin eagle +.60 perfect fit push rods and still cant get the valve train to quiet down.

Anyone have a possible answer? ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust FLTR2008TRIKE http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448542-08-hydraulic-cam-tensioners.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448323-cam-plate-new-post.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 04:48:29 GMT Looking to get a little more out of my '05 Road King and am starting to get parts together for the winter mods to begin. I am putting in an Andrews 21N and the newer style hydraulic tensioner setup, 3.37 gearing and am having the heads cleaned up over at Big Boys. Staying at 88" for now (gotta watch the $, been out of work since March).
My question is about the cam plate. I see they sell a complete SE kit for what I want to do . While I haven't priced out my options yet, I am assuming the stock '07 cam plate is less expensive that the SE billet one. I haven't heard of any problems with the stock plate. Is there any reason to go with the SE kit rather than ordering all the individual parts for the newer setup or is it, the SE kit, a waste of money?
Thanks,
Jeff ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust JefFLH http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448323-cam-plate.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448272-life-of-stabil-new-post.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:12:39 GMT Is there a shelf life for Stabil? I've been using the same container for about 5 years now. Should I discard this can and get a new one... don't want to have gummy injectors! ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust patriotmc http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448272-life-of-stabil.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448249-replace-both-cylinders-new-post.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:38:30 GMT Hello all,

I've been reading this forum for a while now - great info. So about a month ago I was cut off on the highway and forced to lay down my 1991 Heritage Classic. She slid straight down the highway from about 80km/h to 0 without hitting anything (and so did I). Anyway the left side is pretty scrapped up and insurance is willing to fix all the damage (100% no fault). It's mostly just cosmetic stuff except my clutch linkage was pushed into my front cyclinder causing a decent gauge in one of the cooling fins. Insurance has agreed to replace the complete cyclinder and I understand from the shop that this comes in a cylinder/piston assembly. My question is if I only replace the front cyclinder without replacing the rear cyclinder and doing any other engine work am I asking for trouble down the road? The bike has about 90,000km on it so one cylinder would be running with 0km and one with 90K. The shop is suggesting that I, at the very least replace both cylinder and piston assemblies.

I've always been told that if you don't have to crack open an evolution engine don't. Should I just live with the cosmetic damage to the cylinder and not start tearing the engine apart? If I do go ahead with the repair should I also have the heads and crank looked at while the mechanic is in there?

Prior to the accident the bike ran like a clock - no oil burn, lots of power.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice. ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust Jefferson http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448249-replace-both-cylinders.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448239-carb-spits-and-big-puff-of-white-smoke-mist-new-post.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:00:12 GMT 94 evo, S&S E, thunderheader pipes, Mega-Fire ignition

What tha...?

changed the oil today and when I fired it up to warm it up it didn't want to start. Last night I had two big POPS out the pipe and then one carb spit with the "smoke" coming out of the air cleaner.

Today after I got it warmed up and I got the oil changed I messed with the air/fuel screw a tad, and opened the accelerator pump up a notch, and now the son of a gun won't start, even with the choke on.

If I understand, the carb spitting usually means lean? I don't know what jets are in there, but it's run pretty darn good for the most part for the year+ I've had it, good response at all speeds (if a tad bit of stumble when just "coasting" without giving it gas)

I do have some pretty noticeable valve train noise. Maybe a valve went bad?

thanks in advance for any help ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust NewDude http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448239-carb-spits-and-big-puff-of-white-smoke-mist.html http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448180-power-commander-question-new-post.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:02:25 GMT I have a 2009 Ultra Classic, 103 with 251 cams, and have heard good things of PC V, but HD techs... I have a 2009 Ultra Classic, 103 with 251 cams, and have heard good things of PC V, but HD techs say there can be problems with ECM later on. Any thoughts?
keith t ]]> Engine/Fuel/Intake/Exhaust keith t http://hdforums.com/forum/engine-fuel-intake-exhaust/448180-power-commander-question.html