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Yeah, the drain is the dead give-away in your case.
Do keep in mind, however, that our bikes are subject to The Dreaded Click, as John and Rufus mention, caused by about a dozen electrical connections between the battery and the starter solenoid coil, including cheesy push connectors, switches, breakers, ring terminals, a relay, etc. After you have this drain tracked down and fixed, and remember that with a 20 amp-hour battery, a .5 amp drain means it's totally dead in a maximum of 40 hours and likely dead enough not to start the bike in 12 or 24, then if you have problems with slow turning over or a chattering solenoid, put a volt meter on the pull-in coil of the solenoid and see how much voltage is there when you push the starter button. If it's less than 10 or so, like say, 8, that could not be enough current available to pull the solenoid in enough to make good contact for the starter motor. Put the volt meter on the wire between the solenoid and the starter. That should read the same as the battery when you're cranking, give or take a little. If it's 8 and the battery is 10 or 11, the solenoid isn't making good contact. A brand new solenoid will do this if the pull in circuit doesn't have enough power available.
I spent 2-3 weeks tracking that whole circuit down. I added an additional booster relay to supply 12V to the starter solenoid and I have not had a Dreaded Click since.
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The more you tell me the more I am beginning to suspect the solenoid. However the best I can do cyberly is suspect it. If it were in front of me then maybe the diagnosis would be different.
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Something isn't right with that solenoid. Could also be the return spring/plunger in there. I suppose that it is remotely possible that the solenoid has caused the drain, but it would have to have a short or severe carbon buildup inside the solenoid. The 9V at the coil wire of the solenoid is about typical for our era and related to The Dreaded Click.
Everyone who has responded knows more than me, but I would add, being an 86, when you check connections, tight isn't everything, could still be corroded and feel tight. Clean all associated connections and put some dialectric grease on em, couldn't hurt. I put that stuff on every electrical connection-bulbs, switches, etc. Ounce of prevention they say.
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Clean all associated connections and put some dialectric grease on em, couldn't hurt. I put that stuff on every electrical connection-bulbs, switches, etc. Ounce of prevention they say.
I have already done that, this is my 3rd "Old" bike
As far as the solenoid, It is a new solenoid, and I did pull it apart and clean it, really was not in bad condition. Also, new plunger spring.
I guess I can put the old one back in and see if that makes any difference.
After replacing the solenoid (did not fix the problem) I finally bit the bullet and returned the battery to J&P Cycles (Odyssey 680) Even though the battery tested out ok for them, they took my word and agreed to replace it.
I decided that I would not go with the Odyssey again, so instead I went with the Big Boar battery (350)
I have had it in since Saturday, and no problems at all! Bike starts right up every time (beginning to think I did not need the CR) and even my dash mount volt meter is sitting in the 14 volt range, even with the spot lights on.
I guess the battery I had was just a bad one. I know it had been suggested before, but when you spend $230 on a battery, you expect it to be good.
Any way, all I need is for the weather to stay good and get some more miles in before the snow starts to stick!
Thanks for all the input, and hopefully this will assist other riders in the future.
Location: NC and across the Mississippi every opportunity
Posts: 1,115
Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzie65
After replacing the solenoid (did not fix the problem) I finally bit the bullet and returned the battery to J&P Cycles (Odyssey 680) Even though the battery tested out ok for them, they took my word and agreed to replace it.
I decided that I would not go with the Odyssey again, so instead I went with the Big Boar battery (350)
I have had it in since Saturday, and no problems at all! Bike starts right up every time (beginning to think I did not need the CR) and even my dash mount volt meter is sitting in the 14 volt range, even with the spot lights on.
I guess the battery I had was just a bad one. I know it had been suggested before, but when you spend $230 on a battery, you expect it to be good.
Any way, all I need is for the weather to stay good and get some more miles in before the snow starts to stick!
Thanks for all the input, and hopefully this will assist other riders in the future.
Don't have a clue why the drain dissapeared but who cares, the end result is the main thing. And too, when dealing with small batterys, an extra 40 - 50 CCA is a big difference, percentage-wise.
Thanks for the update Ozzie and glad to hear your ride is happy again
