You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join HDForums.com community today!
Ok, heres the progress and boy is it going slow. The motor and tranny are aligned and bolted down. Pulled the intake to remove the map sensor boss. The voes will hit on it. Had to do it to the Ultima intake I had on the 80. I also noticed that the transition into the cyclinder head port is terrible so I'm going to blend that.
Whats the trick to get the stator harness thru the case? My old one is pretty swollen and just would not go. Used every type of lube I had including our KY His and Hers. Didn't work but it got me thinking so I stopped for the night. Notice the insulation is cracked on one of the leads so I'm going to get a new stator. Could have been split or I could have done it. Not sure. Not real happy about it either.
I took one of shocks loose to get the tranny loose.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on HD Forums!
The insulation was cracked with our '90 as well and the plug on the new OEM replacement stator went in OK. My mistake
( as previously posted) was missing the set screw to hold the plug in place - I did like the original Harley set up to secure the plug better than the Ultima.
I know some can change an engine in a few hours, but it took me a long time, but I have learned over the years that things don't have to be done right away. For me it is a hobby, if it seems too much like real work then it is not as enjoyable. As long as you are satisfied with your progress, it doesn't matter how long it takes.
Your comment about KY reminded me of a thought I had while watching Cher's Farewell Tour on dvd last week. Although she looked and sounded as good on that show as she did in the '60's and had a lot of young guys around her, I couldn't help but think that she probably needs the KY as well, as there are some things you just can't change when you get older.
It was actually a good night working on the bike. New stator right in. Didn't even need the KY. Compensator and clutch hub on and torqued. Clutch disassembled to put the extra plate kit and heavy duty spring in. I also got the map sensor boss ground off and the intake port matched.
If the hew stator :went right in" with little or no resistance you might want to put a little silicone sealer on it so that it does not leak. Glad to hear all else is well.
__________________
John Therrien
SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO ????
Marines may guard the gates of heaven
A job they may do well !!
But it takes the 82nd Airborne
To guard the gates of hell !!
There was some resistance and I did use silicone. The old stator the plug was so softened and swollen that there was no way it was go to go in. It's the first stator I've replaced, so you know what it's like when you do something for the first time. No sure exactly what to expect.
I made alot of progress today. The primary and new clutch are buttoned up. The oil lines are run. The coil has been relocated. Intake and carb are on.
Now for the problem. I went to put the exhaust on and its hitting on the cam cover. It's a Thunderheader for a Fatboy with floorboards. It's hitting so bad that the rear mount is an inch off of the frame. Has anybody else had problems with their old exhaust hitting?
I had to change the headers on my '90 FLHTCU as the front pipe was against the cam cover as well. I was lucky and bumped in to a set almost new '08 headers for $80 shipped in the for sale section of one of the forums. The '08 headers allow O2 sensors, which worked great with my air/fuel ratio meter.
If you want to you can mark the affected area with a non-permanent magic marker. Then put the header on something soft, take a ball peen hammer, hold it in the center of the area and hit it with another hammer until the area is dimpled enough to clear. Be sure to wear safety glasses whenever hitting one hammer with another. The dimple will allow it to clear with minimal performance loss, and is cheaper than a new exhaust. It doesn't take a big dimple at the nose cone to move the back in one inch or more. Hope this helps.
__________________
John Therrien
SPEED COSTS, HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO ????
Marines may guard the gates of heaven
A job they may do well !!
But it takes the 82nd Airborne
To guard the gates of hell !!
John thanks for the advice. A couple of dimples and the exhaust fits. Fired it up tonight and boy does it sound strong. I left the point cover off while it was running and the VOES/retard light was on. Is that normal? I have the VOES set at 7. Does the light being on mean that the timing is retarded? Thanks.
The VOES passes the signal to ground that triggers the ignition to advance the timing and on mine it is on most of the time ( advanced) , I have it wired through an indicator on my air/fuel ratio gauge and it only goes off when I open the throttle pretty much such as going up a hill or accelerating pretty hard or if I rev the engine.
