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  #91  
Old 10-26-2009, 11:26 AM
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paco paco is offline
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Hey Beast and John,

If you come up with a solution to the valve noise please post. i just tell folks its the solid lifters. would like to make it a little quiter though. about 20,000 + miles with no regets. replaced the oil pump and the ignition.

later......
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  #92  
Old 10-26-2009, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by miacycles View Post
Beast, you can quite them down some, however if you have a fairing you will be able to hear more valve train noise than without one. Send me a message with your phone number and best time to call and we will talk.
I am in Saudi Arabia right now so with the long distance and the time zones I will have to wait till I get back states side.
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  #93  
Old 10-26-2009, 04:38 PM
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I am in Saudi Arabia right now so with the long distance and the time zones I will have to wait till I get back states side.
See I quited them down already, I'll bet they don't make any noise for a while. Just kidding, Saudi is a nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there. Do they still have the big tent set up for the locals in the lobby of the Hilton??
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  #94  
Old 10-26-2009, 05:11 PM
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Hey Beast and John,

If you come up with a solution to the valve noise please post. i just tell folks its the solid lifters. would like to make it a little quiter though. about 20,000 + miles with no regets. replaced the oil pump and the ignition.

later......
What ignition are you using, we use the Dyna 2000IP. OK here's what we do to get the valves to be as qiute as possible. First we check the lifter to lifter bore clearance, if it's too big you won't be able to quite the lifters. Then we adjust the valves on at a time. We do not bring the cylinder up to TDC and adjust both at the sane time. Why you ask, bexause todays cams have much more lift at TDC than in the past. If you don't believe me than check your cam card/specs. The average lifter has about .200" of travel and most pushrods are adjusted to about .100" or about half the travel. The cam in you 107" has .181" IN and .171" EX lift at TDC. Do you see a potential problem here ?? What we do is put the bike in high gear with the plugs out and turn the engine over going forward until the valve in question just closes. Then we put a piece of blue tape on the wheel at the bottom most spot. Next we turn the engine over some more until it just starts to open and put another piece of tape on the wheel. Then we turn the engine backwards until we are half way between the tape marks. This puts you pretty close to the heel of the cam. Now we adjust that valve. After waiting until it bleeds down then we move on to the next valve repeating the procedure. It takes a little longer, but you will get the valve as qiute as they ever will be doin it this way. Don't forget to look at your pushrods for "witness marks, if they or the springs/retainers are hitting all the adjustment in the world won't quite them down. Lastly remember to check the rocker arm clearance and the pushrods to ensure that all is well (is oil goilg through th epushrods, are there any undo wear on the pushrods or rocker arm cups) with the complete drivetrain. Hope this helps, as usual if you have any more questions send me a message with your phone number and we can bounce a few things back and forth.
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