95 self build

jackinthebox · #1 10-26-2009, 11:18 AM

So the snow is going to come soon and I'm wanting to do 88 to 95 myself with friends. I figure I have 3-4 months to complete so no hurry. I'm lucky that I have my main bike to ride on any nice days that might come up. I have a good tool colliction. Out of a scale of 10 I figure I'm a 3 and friend is a 6 on ability. I guess if anything goes real wrong can just take it to indie to finish. I really want to try and do it myself for cost reasons becuase did 107 build on my glide so I know it's spendy. This build is for my dyna and goal is to have a high compression bar hopper. So have any non mechinics did this. Plus any ideas for build
thanks

This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members.
Register your free account today and become a member on HD Forums!

djl · #2 10-26-2009, 03:19 PM

I have some ideas about the build but I will leave those to the professionals. However, as a shade tree hack that has built a few of these, I will share what I have learned since I did my first one a few years back.

Read, ask a lot of questions, read some more, study dyno sheets posted on this and other similar forums and be honest with yourself about how you want the bike to perform.

Listen to all advice but accept that the results of the build are your responsibility. Don't blindly follow advice even though it may be coming from a very knowledgeable source, it may not be the solution for your particular application. I guess what I am trying to tell you is that you shouldn't make a decision based soley on advice from others. Do enough homework that you make the decision based on your knowledge and understanding.

Plan the build; build it on paper first and once you have it built on paper and start ordering parts, don't change midstream. If you plan a build around TW37 cams, don't decide to change cam selection to TW55s.

Take your time in the planning and in the execution; don't get in a hurry.

Get the service manual and the parts manual. I have found the isometric schematics in the parts manual very useful and I use it to make a parts list for online ordering.

You and your buddy can do it. Once you have it lined out and all the parts are in hand, it's a DIY weekend project. You will make mistakes but if you are taking your time, you will correct them as you go. You will save some money, learn a lot and have some fun in the process.

kruzin · #3 10-26-2009, 07:43 PM

Here is a good website showing a 1550 with cams build. http://www.harleyhog.co.uk/ Go to the website and scroll about halfway down to find the information. Has great pictures and detailed information.

By the way if you need cam tools let me know as I have some that I have been renting out.

SEDELUXE · #4 10-26-2009, 08:02 PM

please explain bar hopper???????
i know guys that have Baggers that will smoke some bar hoppers.
first determin a few things
1. you can have a good solid build that makes a lot of power and is reliable if you choose the parts correctly.
2. example....95 in with a t-man 625 cam with Baisley or T-man heads set at 10,5 compression will yeild power slightly over 110 hp/tq tuned correctly
3. go with 337 gearing
4. all compoments must match and take great care in checking specs when doing a killer build.
it pays off in the long run.
most shops that i know will bore the cylinders and will gap rings and set pistons in the cylinders just to make sure it is correct for the customer.
5.FIND A GOOD TUNER AND USE A GOOD PIPE

jackinthebox · #5 10-26-2009, 08:30 PM

.bar hopper i guess is just a generic term to me, Im not using this bike for touring, I know alot of guys with screaming touring bikes, mines not a slouch. Im hoping to have some fun and learn a few things. The bikes an 06 streetbob already have pcIII and thunderheader exhuast and kn open filter. Just did a 107 axtell build on my glide earlier this yr so for once trying to things myself with somewhat of budget. Dont know if this is the correct terms but guess im looking for a fast bike light to light. I have the service manual

gunnert · #6 10-26-2009, 08:31 PM

This is not a difficult build, e.g. remove rocker covers, remove heads, remove cylinders/pistons, and then reinstall in reverse order... Cam change is no big deal, you can get by with buying a cheap inner bearing removal tool, freezing new bearings and tapping them in with a socket of equal size. Same goes for cam gears and bearings. It's nice to have the correct tools, but not necessary. Here again with a little ingenuity and a 6" vice, you press in/out the cam bearings, install gear drive cams (if you go that route) etc. The problems that can haunt you are related to not paying attention, e.g. ensure the adjustable pushrods are properly adjusted and the locking nut is TIGHT!

As far as parts I strongly suggest going with one of many reputable builders like Hillside, T-Man, HQ, etc.... You can send them your heads and jugs and they will do the rest. You may even want to have them install the pistons in the jugs. I use this technique, install pistons on the bench, have piston hanging down from bottom of jug, place rubber fuel line hose over (a slit cut all the way down) studs, lower jug/piston onto rod, install wristpins, install clip, etc.

By all means, do it yourself. Of course the Service Manual is a REQUIREMENT. I'd also suggest the Parts Manual for your bike. The Illustrated Parts Breakdown of the various components can be invaluable in visuallizing what the Service Manual is telling you to do...

Good luck!

rthomp159 · #7 10-26-2009, 08:38 PM

I'm running the T-Man 625 cam with their stage 2 heads and 10.5:1 compression in my 103. It kicks ass. I think I'm leaving a little on the table with the quiet baffle in my pipe, but I'm at 116/116 on my 103. A 95 "A" motor with a less restrictive pipe should see near 110/110 at 95 ci.

SEDELUXE · #8 10-26-2009, 09:58 PM

Jack i think you really need to think about what you really want since you have 2 bikes thats great but you also dont want to be working on one all the time
also since you have experience with axtell have them bore your cylindersand fit the pistons in the holes. also ask him about the baisley heads he sells and he also sells T-Man stuff as well. see what he thinks.
also Scott from Hillside can also bore the cylinders andd fit the pistons in the hole as well. i like the t-man cams because they work similar to the woods cams with out the extra noise. now they are not as strong down low but its a good trade off. have seen t-mans stuff first hand on the dyno and on the street and am verry impressed and not just 1 build either several diffrent combos and the all work very nicely
G

jackinthebox · #9 10-26-2009, 10:56 PM

i appreaciate all the info i get here. I have time to keep researching this next build. Just putting it out there so i can start thinking. SE you gave me some good advice on my last build and I take it all in. I like the axtell stuff just not trying to drop that much coin again.

Shrink · #10 10-27-2009, 01:05 AM

I did a shoestring budget build as my first. I purchased a used 95" kit, destroyed the pistons trying to clean the carbon off with oven cleaner. Bought another set of used flat top pistons, and installed with a used set of 203 cams. Total cost was around $500 after purchase of new bearings, rings and gaskets. Rented a blind puller from autozone and a ring compression tool. Went together perfect and runs like a top. Crazy fun compared to stock. Not winning any dyno shootouts, but a fun cheap worthwhile project.