May I suggest going back to the beginning! I know your frustrated by the whole oil thing! BUT, if I may ask...
How many oil changes did you go through with each type... If you went from one to another at each oil change interval you are doing yourself an injustice. It takes at least two / three intervals to remove the remnants of the previous oil. When you change your oil you are completely removing the oil in the tank (under tranny), as well as the filter... that's it!, Left in there is the oil in the sump (crankcase), about 6 ounces... because its a dry sump, there is a drain screw at the bottom of the crank for removing this oil, to help determine if your oil pump is working correctly. These engines are dry sump and if the pump starts to fail, oil will build up in the crankcase where the flywheel is spinning, the excess oil will impede rotation of the flywheel thereby robbing you of HP! Anyway... also left in there is the oil in the rocker boxes, lifters, oil lines, oil pump, cam housing and oil galley's! So before this sends you off the deep end, go back to dino oil for at least three intervals (sorry, patience will be required). I've done this a number of times with noise complaints and with good results... there is no question about the benefits of Sync... less wear and lower operating temps, but who wants to put up with the noise, not to mention the development of oil leaks at the rocker boxes, the head gaskets and even along the joint between the motor and tranny... shows up as an ugly gray graphite looking mess that's difficult to remove... your local dealer will, believe it or not, tell you its normal... it is not! You can bet if they didn't sell a Sync oil themselves, the finger would be pointed BIG TIME. The catch with Sync... its so thin, that it gets in everywhere. That thin characteristic is what causes these engines to get noisier... that's why it would be to your advantage to switch back, permanently, to those larger dino molecules! It will reduce the noise significantly, allowing you to get on with determining the real problem!
Having said that, I would highly recommend installing a set of adjustable push-rods. The reason being... the assembly of these engines is... assembly line, not balanced or blue printed, "HELL NO"!!! In choosing a set of adjustable push rods, you want to go with a higher thread count (fine thread) for two reasons, more strength and finer adjustment... trust me, after installing a set, you'll know what I mean... its all in locking that jam nut while holding two other wrenches after you've found the sweet spot!
Hint... if you ever want to narrow down a problem with a part, check out the Screaming Eagle parts catalog, case in point...
Screamin' Eagle® Perfect Fit Pushrods. W h a t a j o k e!
Copy the following link
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Another prime example... Screaming Eagle Compensator sprocket. They introduced it in the '06 & up Dyna's and '07 & up everything else. The spring in the original isn't strong enough... rather than admit it, or better still eat it $$$, they simply corrected the problem and called it a Screaming Eagle Performance part!! NICE...
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
PS
How hot is your bike running... if you've gotten this far and would like more info on this, let me know!!
