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I'm preparing to install an after-market exhaust system over the weekend. I removed my stock exhaust already. I understand the need to remove the old exhaust port gaskets and install new ones, but after removing the stock head pipe I can't tell where the old gaskets end and the cyclinder begins and vice versa. I don't want to go digging around trying to scrape off what may be gasket material and then screwing something up. How do I go about removing the old gaskets without having to tear them apart and risk debris getting into the cyclinder? Do I REALLY have to remove the old ones?
Second question - The stock muffler support must be removed. Three T-50 Torx bolts are securing it to the frame. I broke a torx socket off trying to loosen up the first bolt because the bolt was/is so tight. Might these be installed with the use of Loc-tite and therefore require heat to remove? I wouldn't think so, but they are so d@mn tight!
Any advice appreciated..
Les
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"If everything is going well, then you obviously overlooked something."
Just use a flatblade screwdriver to get the old crushable gasket out. You'll know when its out fully. You should have a solid flat aluminum surface when you install new gaskets. And yes, you should remove and replace them. SE gaskets are a great replacement and easy to install.
For your muffler situation I would let the torx screws soak in liquid wrench or WD-40 for a few hours. Then try again. If you have a small hand held propane torch, you can also use that to heat the screws up which will make them easier to remove. The threads are probably held tight by oxidation or rust.
Just use a flatblade screwdriver to get the old crushable gasket out. You'll know when its out fully. You should have a solid flat aluminum surface when you install new gaskets. And yes, you should remove and replace them. SE gaskets are a great replacement and easy to install.
For your muffler situation I would let the torx screws soak in liquid wrench or WD-40 for a few hours. Then try again. If you have a small hand held propane torch, you can also use that to heat the screws up which will make them easier to remove. The threads are probably held tight by oxidation or rust.
I agree, the SE gaskets work really well with aftermarket exhausts. When I installed my rineharts I used them because they are thinner, making it easier to install the head pipe. They crush down well too.
As well you could use a shop vac to remove the crud but really when you start it it will exit out so no real concern there. I use a hook pick works great for removal
Use a point hook to remove the gaskets. Mine were a pain in the ass to get out.
replace them with the Screamin Eagle replacements
As far as the bolts, I'm not sure what HD is doing at the factory, but their torx bolts are way too tight and they are soft so they strip out easy. I just went through the same thing when trying to get the rear tank mnt bolt out while installing the oil pressure gage bracket on my bike (mnts to rear rocker cover bolts but the bolts are too long to get out without lifting the takn a little). I ended up cutting a slot across the head and using an impact driver (the kind you strike with a hammer) to remove the thing!!
Update - I removed the gaskets without any real difficulty using a dental pick (I have a cheap set in the tool box containing picks of different angles, etc.) I replaced the gaskets using the SEs that I picked up at the dealer.
The stock muffler support was a tougher nut to crack. The T-50 torx bolts were secured from the MoCo using Loc-tite. The application of a fine flame from a propane torch for a few minutes on each bolt head allowed me to break them loose and remove them.
The new exhaust system required the mounting of its muffler support lower on the frame using the plugged "blind" holes that seem to be standard on a softail frame, and used to affix the exhaust of some other softail models other than the Deuce. If you ever have to remove these buggers for any reason, it can be aggrevating if you don't know how they are configured.
The plastic "plugs" appear to be easlily removed by simply prying them out. However, the "shank" of the plug is molded to produce "fins" that act to lock it against the internal threads of the blind hole. I pryed up the flat outer "head" in order to grip them with a set of pliers, and was able to finally "unscrew" them.
One other observation. The exhaust flanges of the new header pipes dont rest flush against the exhaust port. I can't remember if the stock set did or not. Both pipes were hand fitted into the ports and against the new gaskets as best I could tell prior to replacing the nuts and tightening the flanges snugly without wringing off a stud. I can't detect any leakage around either header pipe and the bike runs great. Thoughts, anyone?
You can see by my avatar how the pipes look.
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"If everything is going well, then you obviously overlooked something."
Just make sure you tighten them even with a Torque wrench. Then I would retorque the nuts after I put afew hundred miles on them. Then you should be good to go.....
The factory flanges don't bottom out on the head. Difinately torque and re-torque and don't over torque or the stud will break when it warms up. That sucks to fix.
Exhaust Port Gaskets - Need Advice
