Another...Mystery Engine Shut Down

[Newhog]

2000 Ultra Classic all stock, 12,000 miles, all service done at dealer. Intermitant complete power shut down, seems to be heat related, when in heavy tracffic the bike will completely lose all power. We have upgraded the main circuit breaker, changed all relays, checked all wiring, turned off all unecessary items like passing lamps, radio, etc. I've had it to three dealers and an Indy, they have drove it home for a week, ran it hard on a dino, changed some componets, did the circuit breaker upgrade. No one can seem to find the problem. It's getting dangerous to ride this thing, going down the street or on the highway, then all the sudden complete shut down, no power to anything. Let it sit for a couple minutes it comes back to life, like a bad circuit breaker or relay, but like I said, all of that has been changed. Anyone have any ideas?

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[2003Springer]

Does the weather effect it? happen more when it is hot?

[the blob]

sounds like the voltage regulator.

[bagga]

if there is an ignition circuit breaker check that. it's different than the main breaker.

[stroker1948]

The engine temperature sensor will cause the problem you are describing. It's mounted on the rear cylinder on the left side. Has this been changed ?

Stroker

[geargrinder]

Have you replaced your battery? A heat induced internal open on the negative or positive terminal would cause such a problem. A fuel injected engine cannot run without any battery voltage due to the ECM and fuel injectors, unlike a carbed engine. (You cannot push start an EFI engine to get it started if the battery is very low or dead.)

Also, there is a major ground from the battery to the frame, if I recall, under the seat, in front of and near the battery. Has it been removed, cleaned well and re-installed to the frame?

[KBFXDLI]

Does your bike have a bank angle sensor? If so check it as well.

[Newhog]

These are all great responses and suggestions thank you all!

How do I check these componets without just replaceing them?

Such as the battery, as it does start the bike and is never on a tendor, it does hesistate though but that could be due to compression.

I'm good with a meter but don't know what tolerance to look for on the bank or temp sensor, and the battery draw?

I've also been advised that the ring terminals on some of the circuits coming from the silver side of the main breaker are to thin causing it to trip. I'm curious why these ring terminals are not copper as well as that side of the circuit breaker? Can these be replaced with copper ring terminals or does that create some other kind of issue?

Thanks again,

10-17-2009 08:46 PMKBFXDLIDoes your bike have a bank angle sensor? If so check it as well. 10-17-2009 07:14 PMgeargrinderHave you replaced your battery? A heat induced internal open on the negative or positive terminal would cause such a problem. A fuel injected engine cannot run without any battery voltage due to the ECM and fuel injectors, unlike a carbed engine. (You cannot push start an EFI engine to get it started if the battery is very low or dead.)

Also, there is a major ground from the battery to the frame, if I recall, under the seat, in front of and near the battery. Has it been removed, cleaned well and re-installed to the frame? 10-17-2009 07:21 AMstroker1948The engine temperature sensor will cause the problem you are describing. It's mounted on the rear cylinder on the left side. Has this been changed ?

Stroker
10-17-2009 07:21 AMstroker1948The engine temperature sensor will cause the problem you are describing. It's mounted on the rear cylinder on the left side. Has this been changed ?

Stroker 10-17-2009 02:23 AMbaggaif there is an ignition circuit breaker check that. it's different than the main breaker.

[Ram]

Have you checked the keyed ignition switch? Friend of mine had similar problem switch arced over internally and would heat up changing positions of contacts then open the ckt.

[Newhog]

Interesting, I don't think it's that at all but I will check.

Thanks,