Electrical/Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionHaving electrical problems? Need advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a MAP or Fuel Injection? Find your answers here.
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I have about 200 miles on the 103 Stage II kit with SE255 cams and Rush 1.75 exhaust. The dealer did a download for this set up. The engine temp is 245 when I stop after running 75-80 mph. Is this normal?
I plan on a dyno tune in the future.
thanks
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How long did you run the bike at that speed, what’s the outside air temperature, and are you referring to the oil temperature?
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07 Street Glide (Black)
SE A/C, Rush True Dual head pipes, Vance & Hines Slip-on Ovals, SEPRT, Oil Cooler, IDS, SE Big Twin Compensator, SE Pro Twin Cam 103+ Cylinder Heads and Stroker forged Pistons for “103+” Cylinder Heads, and Head-Quarters Hurricane HQ-TC-500-HC cams.
How long did you run the bike at that speed, what’s the outside air temperature, and are you referring to the oil temperature?
Thanks for your reply
The bike had been ridden about 30 minutes The outside temp was around 70 degrees I have the oil dipstick with the digital temp guage which was showing 240 degrees
Did the dealer also put on an oil cooler? This temp is too high for 70 degree weather, what do you think it will do in 90-100 degree weather? I tuned one of these yesterday and the canned SEST map 205TQ was not very good and the OEM O2 sensors were not even close to pulling the AFR's back to 14.6 in closed loop. My data showed a lot of
15's, 16's and 17's as actual live AFR in the closed loop area between 2000 and 3000 rpm. Throttle at 10% to 40%. This is way to lean and will generate a lot of heat. This bike had been running on this canned map for 700 miles. I would find a tuner and get this bike tuned to optimize fuel and ignition. You already have the SEST dongle so a good dyno tune will start to fix the heat and make sure to add an oil cooler as well. Just as a point of refernce my 124CI bike runs at 180-190 at an outside air of 70 and it is tuned correctly and I use the JAGG 10 row cooler with no thermostat. Get it tuned as soon as possible.
This is just an opinion, so please take it as that.
I looked up a map on the SERT similiar to your build(176PS005) and that download has a 14.6 afr from just above idle to 4500rpms, up to 25% throttle. This is probably where everyone drives most of the time. That being said, I would rather have my afr at a max of 14.1 in those areas. Not only would the bike run cooler, but it would run better. The trade-off is gas mileage. I don't personally care about gas mileage when I'm on the bike. My truck gets 14mpg. So, anytime I'm on my bike, I'm putting money in my pocket compared to my truck.
In your case, if your bike had a sert(or sesrt, or tts) and you had a good dynotune completed(not just a stinkin' download like most of the dealers do), then the VE'S will have been set correctly and you could manually change the afr settings(or use the bias change) to get a better running afr for you bike. The only reason Harley is running these engines this lean is because the engine won't pass goverment regulations otherwise.
Mind you, this is JMO.
I’m using the 176PC005 map with some minor changes to the AFR table and the front & rear cylinder closed loop bias tables. Even though the components listed for the map don’t match my build it runs amazingly well and with an outside air temperature of 70 degrees my oil temperature runs between 180 and 190 degrees. I agree with eddfive and relxn88, if you’re running 240 degree oil temperature now, when it gets to 90+ degrees outside that thing's going to get screamin hot. The very first and most important modification I did to my bike was an oil cooler.
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07 Street Glide (Black)
SE A/C, Rush True Dual head pipes, Vance & Hines Slip-on Ovals, SEPRT, Oil Cooler, IDS, SE Big Twin Compensator, SE Pro Twin Cam 103+ Cylinder Heads and Stroker forged Pistons for “103+” Cylinder Heads, and Head-Quarters Hurricane HQ-TC-500-HC cams.
'09 FLTR 103 Stage II heat question
