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It's definately a plus when you now how to do it. I would probably buy the parts do the work and then break other stuff and end up having to have the dealer charge me double to fix my errors, LOL.
When I talk to the dealer Friday which Gear Driven cam do you suggest and how much would it cost since they might do the labor to fix it but not replace the part (I would have to pay for the part again for sure). I don't think Harley makes a gear driven cam for my bike since they did not offer me one when I was speaking to the dealer.
Thanks
JD
Jd
If you do a hi lift valve spring/head set up like the SE heads, and comp. around 10 to 1I would rec. the S&S .570 or HQ .575 FireStorm cams.
If your using stock heads and compression around 9.5 to 1 the HQ 0034 or the Andrews 37s work well. These cams have all make 100 lbs of torque with tight tunes! and in some cases made 100 HP as well!
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I believe what your telling me. At this point I would not do the SE head because of warrenty concerns and just do the big bore. I will have to see what kind of risk I assume if I have them do big bore with the cams you suggest. My expenerience has been if you give a company one thing to blame a problem on and they cover everything else it will always be that one thing that caused the problem and they squirm out of any warrenty. I would have to get them to guarentee full fix of everything and I would just have to buy another cam if that broke.
See I'm worried that if I get an oil leak or a valve problem or compression problem they will blame the power caused by the cam. So If I can get them to agree to cover everything but the price of the non HD cam I would do what you suggest. I will try to work it out with them tomorrow. I will post my choices and say what I think I want to do and hopefully you will be around to say if the system they offer and the HP they say I will get sounds true.
Thanks so much for your help and the education.
JD
I believe what your telling me. At this point I would not do the SE head because of warrenty concerns and just do the big bore. I will have to see what kind of risk I assume if I have them do big bore with the cams you suggest. My expenerience has been if you give a company one thing to blame a problem on and they cover everything else it will always be that one thing that caused the problem and they squirm out of any warrenty. I would have to get them to guarentee full fix of everything and I would just have to buy another cam if that broke.
See I'm worried that if I get an oil leak or a valve problem or compression problem they will blame the power caused by the cam. So If I can get them to agree to cover everything but the price of the non HD cam I would do what you suggest. I will try to work it out with them tomorrow. I will post my choices and say what I think I want to do and hopefully you will be around to say if the system they offer and the HP they say I will get sounds true.
Working in the industry, I see your point.
But if that the BS they tell you, they know less about what they do than you do!
Any cam manufactur will warrenty there parts for a time for defects. and If a cam went bad and the dealer installed it corectly, they would flip the bill.(this is where the issues start)!
Ill tell you this, i feel more confident about the parts I just installed than I do about the stock HD parts I just threw in the trash!
If you are feeling uneasy about moddin you bike I would skip the big bore kit and just do cams and pipes, you will get a major kick in the pants just from that.
The SE 203 or 204 cams are the default HD bolt in cams. I would still do the GD Andrews 37s or HQ 0034s.
Mentor, I plan on getting it all sorted out with the dealer today.
What do you think of the HTC-310 Crane cam? I was told that was the best for low end and high end torque and power. Do you think the GD Andrews 37s or HQ 0034s are perferable.
Which HD parts did you through away, the 203 cams?
My biggest reason for doing this is togain low end power. Unless I'm misunderstanding what I've read, the Big bore kit will give me that better than cams and with even better cams, like you suggest, they will amplify the low end I got and add a lot of HP on the top end as well.
Does the HO 1550 package and HI comp, mean it was the domed pistons giving him 103CI?
I'm gonna call another dealer today to see if I can get that deal where they will stand behind it till the end of my 7 year warrenty.
If they won't honor the warrenty and I can get to about 90HP vs 100HP andhave itunder warrenty I would do that.
Thanks Mac and everyone for all your quick reply's to help me get up to speed on dealing with getting my motor upgraded. I can hardley wait to get to the point that I'm telling you how happy I am with the final result.
Hey, we do have the best looking bikes, all your bike pictures look really good.
JD
no it would still be a 95" but it will have domed pistions
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I just spoke to the dealer. He said he would try to get the quote to me in one or two hours. It's 12:23 pacific time.
He is doing 3 Quotes
plain Big Bore Kit
Big Bore Kit with adjustable rods and SE tuner plus Dyno'd
Big Bore Kit with Adjustable Rods, SE tuner and a Woods Perf -TH6 or something and Dyno'd.
I told him of all the cams you guys suggested, the HQ and the Cranes and Andrews. He said "we use a better cam, a Woods Perf cam. He could not remember the exact part number so he guesed at TH6.
Have you heard of the Woods perf cam and do you agree it is as good or better as the other camsyou guys have suggested? I hope everybody agrees on the same best cam (the Crane HTC-310 or the GD Andrews 37s or HQ 0034s)And I am assuming all these cams and the one he is suggesting are all of the 9.5:1 type cam not up over 10:1.
With the cam he suggested they will warrenty all of the job 100% for 90 days and then through my 7 Yrs 100% of labor with me paying the differenece between HD parts and upgraded HD parts and me paying 100% for non HD parts assuming I have kept up the maintenance and have the cam chain checked at 35,000 miles.
I went in and orded the Big bore with the Woody Cam Se tuner and adjustable rods. They will dyno my bike before the work and then after the work. They said they will guarntee It will beat least 90HP. They said the cam they suggested is going to give me the best low end power and good top end power. they will set my RPM limiter at 7,000 RPM. Then after 500-600 miles it will be time for my 5000 mile tune up and they will do the tune up and discount it 15% and re dyno the bike and re tune it - no charge.
They said they will warranty all labor, and only charge me the difference between the standard HD part and the performance HD part. They said they would only charge me cost if I needed a new cam (plus the normal 90 day warrenty). They said the Se tuner had no guarentee, after they install it and use it there is no gaureentee but that theyhave almost never seen one break, plus its just the link to program the chip. They said if I lost my SE tuner link or broke it they would replace it at cost.
They put all this in writing.
They charged me $3,100.
It will be done in two weeks. I bring the bike innext weekend. I'm excited. They said it will perform very nice and feel much stronger than before.
Your helpenabled me to understand the choices and ask them about the pros and cons and my options. I hope you guys think I did okay. I'll be watching for your replies.
I have heard of Woods cams, the only thing ive heard bad about them is the HI lift cams are hard on valve trains and are very noisey. (Every one says they have the BEST whatever.) most of your gain will be in the hands of you exhaust choice and the guy tunning you bike! the latter is the critical one!
But I havnt heard anything about the TH6, and I dont personally know any one running them so, I will not bash them on only hear-say. Im surethey will be fine.
Be carful in checking the wording of your contract. It is very possible to damage the engine when tuning on the dyno by running too lean and or too much timming. they usualy make you sign a waver before the tunning releasing them from responcibility if they burn your engine down!
Your about an hours ride from me, so I hope to see it first hand when its done!
I went with a 95" kit which included boring the cylinders, S&S .570 gd cams, S&S heads, SE Flat Top pistions 9.6:1 comp, SE adjustable push rods and Fueling tappest. I also replaced my SE II slip-ons with V&H BSS and then had the bike dyno tuned. It wasn't cheap but it pulls like a freight train! ;-) See attached dyno sheet.
Nice looking bike. Your HP and Torque look great. I don't know how to compare your cam to mine but you did heads and got other components, but we have the same pipes.
I got the picture of the Dyno chart to open but it was to big and it didn't come up with scroll bars on the sides of the window so I couldn't move around and see it. I'm not sure how to read it yet. I saw a blue square and a red square at the top of the picture with the HP and torque but what are the red and blue - your bike and a standard?
Maybe there is another way for me to open it so I can resize it. If you know what I'm doing wrong let me know, thanks. I need to learn to read it because soon I will get my charts.
RE: 95 or 98 ci kit
