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I just finished changing the rear wheel on my bike.
I removed the wheel myself and had a local shop mount the new rubber and balance the tire. Charged me $15. No torque wrench available today, so I'm gonna have to recheck all the fasteners tomorrow. Maymess with the belt tension and alignment a bit more too. Although everything felt nice on the short test ride I just took.
Some things I learned in the process ...
Do not follow the steps in the manual ... Don't even open it up. It will cause WAY more work than you need.
The instructions should be as follows:
[ol][*]Jack motorcycle up[*]Remove axle nut[*]Remove axle[/ol]
Everything else written in the service manual is unnecessary. The manual actually says to remove the brake pads
Anyway, The remove axle part is the hardest. Mine took some persuasion with a hammer that left me with some damaged threads to the nut. Just be careful. You can takethetireoff and put it back on yourself, but an extra set of hands is the way to go, so call a friend.
Take care,
And thanks to all those that replied to my axle nut post.
Ray.
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My axle was frozen in there. I had the dealer remove it and recoat with plenty of anti-seize. The MOCO did not put any on during assembly. [sm=insomnia.gif]
Tackled mine myself, and I agree, why does the brakepads need to come off, left mine alone. My axle was alittle hard to come out, but not to the result of damaging threads. Looked a little dry on the anti-sieze, so I cleaned her up and put a good coat on.
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**2007 FXDC**
Got no time to for spreadin roots, The time has come to be gone. And to our health we drank a thousand times, Its time to ramble on.... L.Zep!!!
my wheel is at the dealer now getting the 180 on it... i did take the caliper off, though....bled it first, then pulled the bango....no need to take the pads out....i didn't see why i'd have to do that...but removing the caliper did make it easier
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"Great words won't cover ugly actions and good frames won't save bad paintings." -D. Lyxzen
my wheel is at the dealer now getting the 180 on it... i did take the caliper off, though....bled it first, then pulled the bango....no need to take the pads out....i didn't see why i'd have to do that...but removing the caliper did make it easier
I removed the caliper as well, but not until the axle was out and the tire was dropped.
No need to bleed it out and pull the banjo (next time).
With the axle, (and more importantly the spacers) out, there is ample
room to move the tireout of the way and slide the caliper off the rear fork.
I don't have a service manual. I've got the axle pulled and the tire won't come out w/ the brake caliper still on there. Do I just remove that top bolt that is attaching the brake line to the caliper? Any juices flow? thanks a bunch, never thought I would have to do this..
i also flipped my axel around, but easier when you pull it hte next time without the exhaust in the way... then again i pull my wheels alot for little mods here and there
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The Powder Pro www.thepowderpro.com
Joe Knapp, Chicago IL
Custom powdercoating work, fork bag stereo's, and much more
Yep, don't follow the manual. That's true with several things you can do yourself - like the front fork sliders. There is plenty of info on the forums on how to do these things on your own. The manual helps but the forums help with the shortcuts.
I was able to remove and reinstall my rear wheel and skip several steps. And it went back on perfectly aligned and with the same belt tension because I did not have to touch either of those adjustments. I didn't do anything with my brakes other than set the caliper aside out of the way to get the wheel off. Just make sure the brake pedal doesn't get pushed while it's disassembled. Didn't have to completely remove my belt guard either. One of the screws was not cooperating so I removed the ones I could get out and just moved the guard out of the way.
Also, I highly recommend the generous use of anti-sieze when reinserting the axle. Goes in like butter and will come out again much easier.