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You guys that are dyno testing a clutch spring need another hobby!!!!!
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Thanks for that good info. You really helped us out a lot. It is amazing the kind of knowledge that one can share through this forum. If the guy can post a difference in dyno runs with a different clutch spring, you ought to let him. If you think it is crap, don't click the post. It is just that easy.
Dude, ease up, ya gotta admit that's pretty funny. You're telling him he's tearing up his bike, how's the view from that high horse you're riding? Never said it was crap just having fun!
Dude, ease up, ya gotta admit that's pretty funny. You're telling him he's tearing up his bike, how's the view from that high horse you're riding? Never said it was crap just having fun!
Never said anything about him tearing up his bike. I said I wanted to make sure I did not tear anything up. (by not having a better clutch spring with my build) If the clutch spring lets the clutch slip, would it not cause a dip in the transfer of the power to the rear wheel. Which could cause a drop in the reading on the dyno. I think we all know that the spring would not increase or decrease the actual power.
By the way, I am not on a high horse but I will ease up.
I had my 09 UC done when I went to the 107, makes a big diff, the clutch grabs earlier and gives you more control at slow speed. Had my clutch bloe out on my 09 Dyna, replaced under warranty, had them install the SE medium spring at same time no charge for labor, huge difference. I recommend the meduim spring the heavy is hard on the hands in traffic and the medium is strong enough for high toque situations. This is my 3rd time through this and ham happy each time.
I can see how this would help.
My question is:
Did you notice The clutch was slipping?
Or did you just change it from what you discovered from a dyno.
I have noticed that my Ultra doesn't seem to hit 2nd as hard as it use to.
I've got an '07 bagger running a TMax A/T with Jamies tuned Rush slipons. It was making more torque than my OEM clutch could handle when speed shifting, especially into 5th and 6th causing the clutch to slip.
I installed the HD Screaming Eagle clutch spring today and reset my clutch adjustment.....All together it took an hour and I reused my derby gasket. I got the spring for 20 bucks and change. So total cost was equal to a decent lunch and two drinks.
My friends, that is the best 20 bucks and an hour I've spent all season.
My scoot hooks up now at the lights and almost jerks my hands off the bars when I shift. Shifts at WOT on the on ramps into 2nd lifts the front wheel 4-6 inches insteada the 2" I was getting before.
This has to be the cheapest, simpliest. and most rewarding mod a guy can make using nothing more than basic hand tools and nothing else.
I strongly suggest you pick one up next time you belly up to the parts counter-just toss it in your parts bin to await your next fliud change and clutch adjustment.
The OEM spring measures .065" thickness, the SE mics out at .080"....... That .015" extra thickness makes a HUGE difference without increasing lever squeeze too much!
Just a little clarification for the unknowing............you have to remove the PRIMARY COVER to get the spring out. It ain't coming out no derby cover hole. Not sure what oinker was alluding to with the ability to reuse his "derby gasket" but there ya have it folks.
The tech that did my 103 when I bought the bike asked me if I wanted to put in the SE spring. I asked him if I should, he said if you are going to RIDE the thing, use the SE spring, it can handle ALOT more torque than the factory spring. I told him I was putting in the 103 to RIDE it, so do it. I actually like the feel of the clutch better with the SE spring. I actually know that I have a clutch when I pull it instead of the lever just slapping the bar.
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