Just wondering if any one can give me any advice on installing heated grips on a 2009 ultra. If you have done this job, please let me know any tips , problems you ran into doing this. Thanks Mark

 

Hi.
I have been going through installing factory heated grips on my '08 FLHTCU, and all I can say so far is...Sweet Baby Jesus why is this so hard? and I'm a F$%@ing Engineer! I am probably 6-8 hours into it and have everything buttoned up just so I can ride again, but the grips are not functional yet.
You will need a service manual if you do not know how to remove the front fairing, seat, gas tank, backbone electrical duct cover, remove the battery, top electrical caddy, left electrical caddy, and dig into the fuse box, The electrical schematic helps a lot at the point I am at since the crux of the installation is the last electrical connection, which is supposed to be installed from the rear of the fuse block on the "P&A IGN" fuse location. The instructions state "there should be a black with red wire already installed to one side of this circuit", and the electrical schematic indicates that too. Well, my bike doesn't have that wiring in place, nor can I find the accessory connector which is also supposed to be obviously located under the seat. The additional circuits near have wiring, but not this location. That is why I am back on the forum tonight, to see if anyone else has found this situation. Elsewise, I need to find another location to connect this wire to. And I still don't see why the circuit needs 2 positive voltage connections, one being the easy to find B+ connection for the red wire, and this one at the fuse block. My next step will be to pull out the DVM and do some resistance and voltage checks.
The provided instruction on my kit (-08 kit part number) don't show the correct fuse block, and there are some other issues that are referred to in another thread on the installation. There are 2 "P&A" fuses on the fuse block, one is already in place with a 15 amp fuse and is labeled "P&A", while the one you need to look for is "P&A IGN" which is in a different location on the fuse block,. The cover has it indicated, even with the 2 amp fuse, but the block outline is dotted on my bike.

Also, good eyes, access to the lower parts of you bike (maybe a lift would be ideal here) and real good light will make the job easier. Someone else suggested a headlamp. Having the bike up higher off the ground would definitely be helpful.
I split my harness that goes through the handlebars into 2 pieces and used the small molex connecter to connect the left tot her right via the opening in the center of the handlebars, allowing ~ 6 inches of wire from either side to come through. They provide 2 molex pins to crimp on for one connector on the throttle side, and I over crimped one so it wouldn't seat in the molex connector at all, so I soldered all the connections and split the harness instead. The MOCO should throw in several extra 1 cent pins instead of only providing the 2 minimum needed.

Anyway, it ain't a simple job, but I still look forward to them working, since I've had them on my prior bike, and I like the feeling of holding on to heated bars. If it weren't for the dangling cable, heated gloves might be a more direct way to go.

Good Luck!

 

I laughed when I read the last post, as I'm an electrical engineer also, which is probably why I wind up involved in these jobs . . .

Anyway, I posted this about my experiences:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...all-notes.html

Hope something in it is useful. Cross my fingers, the Ultra heated grips are still working. But there's gotta be a better way.

 

Cookiemech: your post is the one that is saving my day. I read it earlier and keep losing it. I should have plugged that wire in the fuse block when I had the chance! I sat there and stared at the back of the crimp connector where the instructions said there should be a wire and kept mumbling to myself. Apparently you went the exxtra mile and found out there is a continuous connection between that hot side location and the other 2 shown on the schematic. Thanks for that, I hope to get that finished tonight.

One other thing for me, I wasn't able to just slide the left grip on easily. After measuring the depth and marking where the grip should slide to with tape on the handlebar, I had to take a Dremel with sander drum to both the inside and outside of my stock bars to get the grip to seat fully. That was unexpected.

Lastly, a part of my problem may be that the suppled schematic for the grips is misleading, and that there is a relay inside the left grip. It needs the switched ignition circuit to engage the higher current B+ connection to the heater elements. If they would put that information on the schematic, it would make a lot more sense.

 

Last post from me....
Followed through and installed the final connection to the rear of the fuse block per instructions even though no wiring is apparent, trusting Cookiemech's observations. (About 1 hour to rip into, connect and put everything back together.)
Grips operate as expected, and I want to thank cookiemech for providing the information about the hidden fuse block connection.

The factory should improve both the supplied schematic, and the instructions to reflect how the bikes are leaving the factory. Better yet, put in a pre-wired harness for this upgrade rather than have the field dig into the bike so far, wasting time and putting the install cost probably higher than it should be.

 

Well, it looks like your headaches are now passed onto me. After finishing the install, I was pissed that they didn't work. With the motor running, I have 12V in the grip harness red wire, but no voltage in the fuse block slot.

 

LOOK for gray connector in front of the bat plug your grip wire into it and then it runs off the acc switch on the dash

 

There is a MUCH easier way. you don't even need to look for any connectors or access the fuse block in any way. the O/W wire goes to switched power, or any O/W wire anywhere on the bike, the red wire goes to Batt constant power, and the black to ground. almost all harleys now have an O/W and a black wire zip tied to the headlamp connector, so this just leaves the red, which you can run back to the batt, or use the accy connector in front of the batt. (wierd shaped grey connector). don't worry about the 4 amp fuse they want you to use, it usually causes blowing problems anyway, and the O/W circuit on the bike is protected by a 15 amp fuse, which 15 amps through any of those wires will not melt or burn anything. and i believe now the only wires you have to run through the bars are from the left side on the touring models since harley now wires the right side to a connector in the fairing/nacelle to the throttle position sensor connector that the right grip just plugs into. whole thing shouldn't take more than an hour max.......