98 E-Glide quit instantly going down the highway
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: SO MO-Ozarks
98 E-Glide quit instantly going down the highway
Hey, I hope someone can help me with this. First, which I am not sure if this has anything to do with it...I blew the muffler off the header pipe. Took some bailing wire and clamped it back down. Two miles later going 60 down the highway the thing just quits like someone flipped the off switch. No sputter, coughing or anything like that. Just died. Checked all fuses and circuit breaker. All good. The ignition still would turn it over, but no spark in at least the front cylinder. I couldn't get to the coil yet because some engineer thought it would be a good idea to cram it under the gas tank real tight. I just turned 8300 miles on it yesterday. I am thinking about starting with plug wires and going from there. Now it is like it is out of gas-crank, crank, crank and nothing. Someone said something about coil going bad? Then I read something about heat temp sensor? Until yesterday it has run perfect since I have owned it which amounts to 3000 miles. Any suggestions would be great as my electrical knowledge is lame. Thanks.
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 915
Likes: 2
From: nw alabama
my evo lost coil and ignition module at the same time..... coil will usually have a bad smell and perhaps a drainage of yuck.. ...try to get a service manual for the bike ( lotsa help)my ignition had a lite that flashes---- you can swap plug wires to see if one is bad.. no need to run out and buy new ones without checkn
Last edited by imrotton2; Oct 22, 2009 at 10:02 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,945
Likes: 4
From: Victoria, Australia
I would suggest the first thing you chack s to see if you have fire at the plugs. Pull one, install the lead onto the plug and being careful to ground the plug to the head somewhere convenient, crank the bike over and look for a spark between the electrodes. Do the same to the other plug. the way it died sure points to an electrical fault somewhere...If you see a spark on both plugs your problem may be fuel delivery but if you have EFI I can't help.
If you have a carbed bike tell us.
If you have a carbed bike tell us.
Last edited by V2Evo96; Oct 22, 2009 at 10:48 PM. Reason: fix smelling pistakes and minor edit
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1-is bike fuel injected? is check engine light on? if light is on there is a sequence to read code.
2-muffler off header??? is that the slip-on muffler that slipped off?
probably had an exhaust leak for some time and the heat,unburned fuel and oxygen made conditions perfect for a nice back fire.
3-8,300 miles is low for years, it really sounds electrical...check coil, also check connection at ECM..the connection at ECM gets corrosion and causes problems.
If bike is fuel injected check for a power commander or similar connection, especially if slip ons or airfilter has been changed.
4-If bike is fuel injected and mostly stock the list of problems should be limited for year:
a-coil
b-connections from battery, connections to starter, little silver breaker near battery
c-temp. sensor--would affect ability to drive more than starting issues.
d-the cam position sensor--very common, makes starting really difficult, will crank but not catch..usually starts with difficulty until eventually no more starts.. easy sign that it is going bad is to..look at bottom of cone..right floor board(brake side) by your ankle..just below that 3 inch circle cover..look at black wire that exits the bottom of this cone just behind muffler..the original melts a biege goo out this hole...
2-muffler off header??? is that the slip-on muffler that slipped off?
probably had an exhaust leak for some time and the heat,unburned fuel and oxygen made conditions perfect for a nice back fire.
3-8,300 miles is low for years, it really sounds electrical...check coil, also check connection at ECM..the connection at ECM gets corrosion and causes problems.
If bike is fuel injected check for a power commander or similar connection, especially if slip ons or airfilter has been changed.
4-If bike is fuel injected and mostly stock the list of problems should be limited for year:
a-coil
b-connections from battery, connections to starter, little silver breaker near battery
c-temp. sensor--would affect ability to drive more than starting issues.
d-the cam position sensor--very common, makes starting really difficult, will crank but not catch..usually starts with difficulty until eventually no more starts.. easy sign that it is going bad is to..look at bottom of cone..right floor board(brake side) by your ankle..just below that 3 inch circle cover..look at black wire that exits the bottom of this cone just behind muffler..the original melts a biege goo out this hole...
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: SO MO-Ozarks
Yes, it is fuel injected. No spark at the front cylinder plug. Did not check the back one yet. Will check to see if engine light is on. How do I check coil? Do I have to remove gas tank? ECM? Where is it? Bike is all stock as far as I know. I should say the battery is two weeks old. Dealer said that circuit breaker by the battery could be cracked and when it heats us could shut bike down. My friend checked it with a volt meter and it had juice. I have only had simple carbed sleds in the last 30 years so I am totally lost on this rig. Thanks a bunch as you all have given me some starting points.
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From:
lets keep it as simple as possible first.
steps to take:
per book:
you need a multimeter =M.....a digital one
with ignition switch to ON..fuel pump cycles..does the fuel pump cycle?????
or could problem be fuel pump...difficult to diagnosis with-out being in front of bike.
1-red wire from M to white/black on coil....black wire from M to good ground
if NO power(no 12 volts) check circuit breaker
2-now do same with red wire from M to pink wire on coil and white black wire alternatively..if NO 12 volts..probably need to dump the coil.
3-Was the tank removed at some time and wires to coil bent? cut?
could it be as simple as a handlebar change that bent/shorted a switch.
**The ECM computer is on the right side-throttle behind plastic cover that is under seat...bikes with connection problems are usually those that are pressure washed or go through some major rain/flooding type conditions or are exposed to a lot of road salt.
***The circuit breaker by the battery i believe looks old school..two nut posts....are you positive it was checked for power by connecting with multimeter..one end to ground and then other end of lead testing each post????
IF this is a trike: could there be a load of stuff connected to that circuit breaker and causing it to heat-up?
steps to take:
per book:
you need a multimeter =M.....a digital one
with ignition switch to ON..fuel pump cycles..does the fuel pump cycle?????
or could problem be fuel pump...difficult to diagnosis with-out being in front of bike.
1-red wire from M to white/black on coil....black wire from M to good ground
if NO power(no 12 volts) check circuit breaker
2-now do same with red wire from M to pink wire on coil and white black wire alternatively..if NO 12 volts..probably need to dump the coil.
3-Was the tank removed at some time and wires to coil bent? cut?
could it be as simple as a handlebar change that bent/shorted a switch.
**The ECM computer is on the right side-throttle behind plastic cover that is under seat...bikes with connection problems are usually those that are pressure washed or go through some major rain/flooding type conditions or are exposed to a lot of road salt.
***The circuit breaker by the battery i believe looks old school..two nut posts....are you positive it was checked for power by connecting with multimeter..one end to ground and then other end of lead testing each post????
IF this is a trike: could there be a load of stuff connected to that circuit breaker and causing it to heat-up?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,889
Likes: 104
From: Mississippi
Just for the heck of it take your seat off and check to see if your fuel pump came unplugged...It should be up toward the front of the seat where it fits into the frame ...I am trying to remember but I think it is a yellow wire.
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Intermediate
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: SO MO-Ozarks
Man, what a bunch of good stuff! Yes, my fuel pump cycles when I turn on the ignition. 12 volt reading at circuit breaker by battery off each post. Ok, borrowed a digital multimeter and so now time for a question that I don't want to hear the answer to...Do I have to remove the tank to get to the coil? On the Heritage it is in plain view on the side behind a cover. It seems on the Glide it is crammed so tight above the heads that I can't even get my fingers in there. I took 3 tank bolts out so is there another one that I am missing hidden in the mess of wires underneath it? Started to take off breather in the hopes I can get to it from that side or at least get a good view. If there is anything special I need to know for tank removal that would be very helpful before I get into this. Fatbobs are so much easier! Thanks.
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From:
3 tank bolts.
2 up front and 1 just under lip of seat on my road king..should be same.
just need to raise the front of tank..stick some shop towels , tennis ball, what ever under front of tank in frame tunnel.
MAKE SURE THE STEERING WHEEL WILL NOT TURN AND WHACK TANK.
doing it this way saves draining tank and removal of fuel lines that are $$ and leak easily if removed/re-installed.
2 up front and 1 just under lip of seat on my road king..should be same.
just need to raise the front of tank..stick some shop towels , tennis ball, what ever under front of tank in frame tunnel.
MAKE SURE THE STEERING WHEEL WILL NOT TURN AND WHACK TANK.
doing it this way saves draining tank and removal of fuel lines that are $$ and leak easily if removed/re-installed.
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,088
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From:
did you ever look to see for the melted goo under the timer cover on throttle side by right foot?
when that cam position sensor gives up the ghost the bike turns over but will not catch..engine can not figure out its position....sometimes just a very quick tap of starter button followed by the real press of starter with cause it to catch....BUT you would have a check engine light.
when that cam position sensor gives up the ghost the bike turns over but will not catch..engine can not figure out its position....sometimes just a very quick tap of starter button followed by the real press of starter with cause it to catch....BUT you would have a check engine light.