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i never understood why there was to separate types of lobes either.it would seem like you would want both being a "sharp" lobe to collapse the coil field and all that....making a hotter spark as i understand it.maybe that is somthing that is only better on paper because by looking at he spark i cant tell one from the other.-----it works so i am good with that.
my last question is-
how much importance do yall place on having a strong spring on the points? the local auto vendor had 2 points in stock(chevy...they fit on mine) one was $5 one was $10.they looked the same except the 10 had a much much stronger spring.tahts what i got. in bike mags they always use that as a plus but with that round lobe it seems a little useless as it doesnt really have to spring back.
i never understood why there was to separate types of lobes either.it would seem like you would want both being a "sharp" lobe to collapse the coil field and all that....making a hotter spark as i understand it.maybe that is somthing that is only better on paper because by looking at he spark i cant tell one from the other.-----it works so i am good with that.
my last question is-
how much importance do yall place on having a strong spring on the points? the local auto vendor had 2 points in stock(chevy...they fit on mine) one was $5 one was $10.they looked the same except the 10 had a much much stronger spring.tahts what i got. in bike mags they always use that as a plus but with that round lobe it seems a little useless as it doesnt really have to spring back.
The sharp lobe and the rounded lobe do the same job even though they are much different shapes.
When the points first break open is when the signal get sent to the coil, the coil collapses and the spark occurs.
The shape of the rounded lobe is due to the rear cylinder piston position which I tried in vain to explain. An engineer is needed to do that where it can be understood. Sorry.
I would opt for the stronger spring myself. With a weak spring the points can 'bounce' (possibly) where a stronger spring resists this from happening.
pg
i never understood why there was to separate types of lobes either.it would seem like you would want both being a "sharp" lobe to collapse the coil field and all that....making a hotter spark as i understand it.maybe that is somthing that is only better on paper because by looking at he spark i cant tell one from the other.-----it works so i am good with that.
my last question is-
how much importance do yall place on having a strong spring on the points? the local auto vendor had 2 points in stock(chevy...they fit on mine) one was $5 one was $10.they looked the same except the 10 had a much much stronger spring.tahts what i got. in bike mags they always use that as a plus but with that round lobe it seems a little useless as it doesnt really have to spring back.
the spring tension on the points assembly should be 14 to 18 oz, according to the manual. I, personally don't have a spring gauge. So , as an UN-educated guess. I would say go with the heavier spring weight. The points will snap back faster at higher RPM's. Me personally, next time I change points, I'm going to the local Harley dealer to get them. That way, I'll know that they were designed specifically for a bike. I'm sure the chevy points will work as well, but I can't help but think of how much faster my bike revs as compared to my ole 65 C-10 with the 250 in-line six.
My dad was a Chevy mechanic back in the '50s, and then in the auto parts business until he semi-retired. The old Blue Streak Chevy 6-banger points were exactly the same as the Blue Streaks for the HD. The HD points could be used in both the cone Shovel or the '71 and later Sportster. I have no knowledge of the slab-side Shovels or the pre-'71 Sportsters. All that said, stuff changes, and it seems quality always goes south. For those who don't live near an HD shop, or who choose not to support a particular "stealer", try the "made in the USA" Accel points.
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