Few Questions About the Compensator Nut
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
Few Questions About the Compensator Nut
Due to some noise that I'm hearing in my primary, I want to check the "compensator nut" that I've read about so many times on the forums. But in looking at the service manual, I don't see a "compensator nut" at all. What I DO see is a "compensating bolt". It looks like it's what holds a sprocket on the flywheel. Is that what everyone is referring to? I ask because it is obviously not a "nut" at all, but rather a bolt.
Also, when you tighten it, how do you lock the sprockets in place so they won't move. I see that HD has a special tool for it, but what about a homemade solution?
Also, when you tighten it, how do you lock the sprockets in place so they won't move. I see that HD has a special tool for it, but what about a homemade solution?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 33,062
From: King George, VA
Actually, you can make the locking tool out of a piece of 2X4 wood.
The compensator nut is just that. It's about 2 1/2" long and is threaded on the inside.
When ya use the tool to lock the sproket, be you DO NOT have it wedged UNDER the sprocket. You can damage your chain tensioner pad. When tightening the nut, read the manual real close about the proper torque and then the additional turn.
When the nut is properly tightened, check it real close to be sure it is seated properly and does not touch the inside of the outer primary cover.
The compensator nut is just that. It's about 2 1/2" long and is threaded on the inside.
When ya use the tool to lock the sproket, be you DO NOT have it wedged UNDER the sprocket. You can damage your chain tensioner pad. When tightening the nut, read the manual real close about the proper torque and then the additional turn.
When the nut is properly tightened, check it real close to be sure it is seated properly and does not touch the inside of the outer primary cover.
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
Actually, you can make the locking tool out of a piece of 2X4 wood.
The compensator nut is just that. It's about 2 1/2" long and is threaded on the inside.
When ya use the tool to lock the sproket, be you DO NOT have it wedged UNDER the sprocket. You can damage your chain tensioner pad. When tightening the nut, read the manual real close about the proper torque and then the additional turn.
When the nut is properly tightened, check it real close to be sure it is seated properly and does not touch the inside of the outer primary cover.
The compensator nut is just that. It's about 2 1/2" long and is threaded on the inside.
When ya use the tool to lock the sproket, be you DO NOT have it wedged UNDER the sprocket. You can damage your chain tensioner pad. When tightening the nut, read the manual real close about the proper torque and then the additional turn.
When the nut is properly tightened, check it real close to be sure it is seated properly and does not touch the inside of the outer primary cover.
Ok, but again, I don't see a NUT anywhere in the illustrations.
What I see is a BOLT, as illustrated in post #3 (item #6 on the illustration). This is very different from what everyone always says about tightening the compensator NUT.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 634
Likes: 8
From: Plum & Nearly
earlier models used a large Nut about 1 and 1/2 inches in diameter ...........the late model compensators such as yours have been redisgned an uses a BOLT to hold the compensator on.....the photo in the manual is correct....be sure and follow all of the tightening procedures to insure a proper torque.
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 880
Likes: 81
From: California
earlier models used a large Nut about 1 and 1/2 inches in diameter ...........the late model compensators such as yours have been redisgned an uses a BOLT to hold the compensator on.....the photo in the manual is correct....be sure and follow all of the tightening procedures to insure a proper torque.
Cool, thanks twincam47! A quick question, if you know... Is it common for the redesigned compensators to come loose too? Or are most of the reports of "loose compensator nuts" from the previous versions?
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Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: California
Does anyone know?
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 3
From: Texas/Arkansas border
if you have done any upgrade to your engine, ie 103ci or se255 cams, you will find that the stock compensator may no longer be stout enough for your engine. I ran into this on my '07 Ultra after the above mentioned upgrade. Had the stock compensator replaced, did no good. Mine was causing serious starting issues like the starter was stripping out the gears. It was not. Solution was an SE compensator install. cured all my problems. It consist of about a dozen pieces rather than about 5 with the stock compensator and does a much better job of keeping the slack out of the primary chain at all times, especially during start up. You might consider the SE compensator upgrade, will probably cure any ailments you seem to have.