FYI!!! There was a recall issue on the '03 Touring models when new.
the main breaker would trip when the motor got hot, causing the bike to shut down. The fix was a replacement 50 amp breaker, covered by the MoCo. Did you bring this matter up with the dealership when having the 10k service done? Also, 10k miles on a 7 yr old bike? Did you just get this or don't ride much? Whats the story?
AP

 

my story is different : idle rpm's go down and then the engien dies. As if no gas was applied by the ECM. All the rest keeps on working: headlights, blinkers,...
I just need to OFF/ON the starter button, and it starts again. Sometimes it shuts down again at the next trafic lights. I just keep on revving with the trothle...to preventing it from stopping. Someone sugested to replace the Engine Temp Sensor, disconenct the battery leads, clamp them together overnight ( to drain all electricity in the electronic components ( condensators keep power ). Will keep posting untill my problem is solved.

I drive a RK 2001 with MM efi , 95 CI, SE203, true dual, PCIII, Open air filter,and have approx 40K miles on it, doing 93 HP and 135 TQ.
Visit www.harley-david-son.eu. It's is the RK with the taildragger and the maltese cross taillight, with a batwing from Mempjis Shades.

 

Thanks for the info on the recall, greatly appreciated!

I did the 10K service myself, but I'll go in and see if this recall still shows against the bike.

The bike had 4,500 miles on it when I bought it a year ago. I've put 6,000 on now in just under a year. It was owned by NASCAR driver Geoff Bodine who didn't have much opportunity to ride it (his one main ride was the Petty cross-country ride).

 

Your symptoms are very similar to mine. I would recommend replacing the engine temp sensor to see if it solves the problem. It's only a $37 part and takes a few minutes to change.

That's a great looking bike you've got!! Nice job!!

 

Another common problem with the '03 that will cause the dying at idle and other low speed driveability issues is pinholes in the intank fuel lines. You can check by looking and listening inside the tank as you turn the ignition switch on, if you hear any hissing , gurgling or squeeling sounds and or see fuel spray inside the tank then you have pinholes. This problem will not cause the ECM to throw a code.
AP

 

My '03 Ultra did the exact same thing during Bike Week 2004. Engine would just shut down, but lights, etc still worked. I took the bike to Daytona HD and the service writer just shook his head and said that I was the 5th one that week with the same problem. He told me that the fairing lowers were keeping too much heat and the front engine sensor was protecting the engine by shutting down. He told me to go back to the room and remove the lowers and the problem would go away. He was right. Since then, every May I remove the lowers and put them back on in October, unless going to Bike Week and I remove them for that also. The bike has never shut down anymore since then. To make it easier to remove I bought a set of quick disconnects for the lowers from Rivco and taking them off is a simple no-tool 5 minute task.

 

I am calling the engine temp sensor the culprit. I replaced it and have sat in traffic on three occasions now with zero problems. Appreciate the other possible problems. Will refer back here if I have future problems.

 

If when it dies you could carefully remove a spark plug and test for spark before it cools, and there is none, this might help.
Intermittent Ignition Problems

Intermittent problems are usually caused by temperature
or vibration variances. Perform the following.

Temperature test

NOTE
Perform Steps 1-3 with the engine cold.

1. Remove the outer timing cover, inner timing cover and
gasket .
2. Start the engine.
3. Spray the sensor

 

Wanted to post an update. Had this problem reoccur again so did some more reading on HDFORUM. I cleaned my IAC (had quite a bit of crud in it) and found that the cap on the fuel purge fitting was cracked all the way around. Replaced that, went ahead and changed the fuel filter (blew a bunch of crud out of the old one) and the hose in the tank that goes from the fuel pump to the fuel filter (it didn't have any holes but it looked kinda old so glad I changed it). Ran it for quite a while after done and it ran great. Have to take for a longer ride this weekend if the weather cooperates but with what I found I'm reasonably confident these three items were contributors to my problem.

 

Okay, in what I hope is my last post on this issue, and something that may help others...took a ride Sunday evening to test and see if the bike was fixed. Rode about ten minutes, filled up with gas, rode about ten more and the problem came back with a vengeance, and finally gave me enough info to figure out what was going on. Very hot evening, sat at a couple stop lights and then just driving down the road the bike died. No electricity at all, got the bike fired up again, crappy idle, turned around to head back home and had the bike die a couple times and after a couple seconds would fire back up. It did this repeatedly and then died completely. Pulled over, check battery terminal bolts, which weren't loose, and then the bike fired up and ran okay for a few minutes. I had turned off the spots, removed my intercom cord, turned off the radio, and the bike made it into my neighborhood so I turned on the spots, turned on the radio and the bike died, no electricity at all. Turned off spots and radio, turned bike back on and rode the rest of the way home with no problem. When I got into the driveway I turned the spots and radio back on and the bike died again, no electricity. At this time it was clear that it was a circuit breaker/relay heating up and popping.

Spent some time reading this forum and some other articles and found that the circuit breaker and location was changed in 04 to a maxi-fuse located under the right cover instead of the circuit breaker on the 03's and earlier located just behind the rear cylinder under the seat. Several folks had retrofitted a fuse into their bikes and I am pretty sure this is the problem I have been having....the circuit breaker heats up and pops, cools down, resets. I placed an inline 40 amp fuse in place of the circuit breaker, wrapped it with a thermal shield and wrapped very well with electrical tape. Zip tied up the fuse and ran the bike for twenty minutes in the garage with everything turned on. Bike seems to run perfectly, but I know I need to take another test ride while it's hot out to ensure my problem is fixed. Hopefully the weather will cooperate tomorrow and I can post the results.