05 Electra Glide Standard, CV40 carb, Dynojet kit, SE stage 1 filter kit, Wild Pigs muffler, 24K mi. Got the bike a few weeks ago and noticed an exhaust/gas smell while riding more noticeable at decleration. After reading the forum and others I thought it might have something to do with the Dynojet kit the previous owner had put in the bike.

The Start: bike ran ok, pulled good to around 4500 rpm, started good, idled fine, only issue the exhaust/gas smell while riding. Carb had dyno jet emulsion tube, 170 main jet, 48 slow jet, slide was drilled, dynojet shorter spring, adjustable needle on the 4th grove from the bottom up, and 2-1/2 turns on the mix screw.

The Change: bought these from the dealer on Sat morning and put in a new Slide, Spring, Emulsion tube, 190 main jet, 45 slow jet, stock needle. Hard to start, idle rough, coughs bad, test ride, pull in 1st and 2nd to about 2500 rpm then slugs off to nothing. Surges, backfires, at idle it dies, hard to restart. Got it back home, noticed raw gas dripping from the air cleaner after I shut it off. Took the filter off and it looks like gas is coming up out of the main jet holder in the center of the throat (the part the needle slides into), looks like gas is overflowing, when I push the slide up with my finger I can see fuel easily coming out and into the carb.

Then, I tried adjusting the idle screw between 2.5 turns and 3.5 turns, shimming the needle with 1 and then 2 washers. Same results, popping, coughing, motor wont even rev over 2800 rpm. Adjustmend were made to the mix while the bike was idleing on the kick stand, when I stood the bike upright the idle got much worse and killed the motor, then it was hard to start again with fuel seeping out the bottom of the filter again.

Then I figured I've done something wrong wth all the new parts I put it to "improve what was already working" ha! So, I put the dynojet kit parts all back in, reset the mix to 2.5 turns out. When I first started it, I thought it was back to baseline, then it acted the same as if the stock parts were still in the carb, popping, coughing, maybe even worse, Each time I rode it up and down my street and it won't even rev while riding over 2800 rpm now. I got back to my garage, pulled the air filter and gas is seeping past the needle jet holder in the carb same as before and when I push up on the slide it looks like gas is coming out of the jet holder (overlowing). It does this till the line is emptied from the tank (its a vac petcock still).

What could it be? I never took out the main jet holder so I don't believe it's upside down. Could I have bumped the float when I had it apart? The float moves up and down when I turn the carb upside down I could see it move. It looks and feels like a good tight seal on the intake and once it's started I didn't leave the choke on. I thought about taking it to a dealer to get it dynoed after the stock parts were in to dial it in if necessary but now it's not even rideable to a shop with the stock parts or after putting the dynojet kit back in. I've screwed something up, please help.

 

Sounds to me like you have pinched the rubber diaphragm on the slide thus creating a vacuum leak. This will prevent the slide from rising. It's hard to get sealed. The trick is to stick your finger and hold the slide all the way up and hold it up BEFORE you attach the top cap. It's not that hard if you hold your tongue just right. After you get the four screws on the cap tight, raise the slide with your finger and let it come down. It should make a hissing noise if sealed correctly and not just slam up and down. While you are at it, replace the needle with a 27094-88 Sportster needle to elmininate the cough. Leave your jets stock H-D, do not change them. After the engine is hot, slowly turn the fuel screw untill the engine idles the fastest and smoothest, the set your idle with the throttle stop screw to the desired RPM's.

 

Thanks for the input, I checked the rubber seal each time I had the top off and it made the hissing noise and certainly appeared to be sealed. I tried it again with the method you suggested. Same outcome though as described before. I've got a sporty needle but I'm not adding that into the mix until I can atleast get it rideable.

The gas leaking out of the front overflow opening and from the needle jet housing make me think something is up with the float. I float has spring to it and appears to be acutating the sealing unit. What I'm saying is it's not stuck from what I can see moving, not just the float but the plunger too.

I've put the dynojet kit back in it at this point and it still runs worse than when I started. I'm going to leave the dynojet kit in and try to figure out what went wrong, then I can try the stock cv parts again. Any ideas guys?

 

Just took in all apart again to make sure nothing was pinched, it ran better when I first started it, within 5 minutes it was flooded out again.
When I shut it off, it puked a bunch of fuel out the air cleaner to, about a bottle caps worth. I'm still researching and trying ideas. If anybody as any, I'm open to them.

 

I noticed you are farther apart on your jets than you were before. You always want to keep both jets as close together as possible . In other words, any time I go up on main ,I go up on the other. But, never the other way.

 

something happened to the flot. a hair is in the neddle causing a leak mabey. I am not sure if the is a hollow flot or solid maybe the hold down pin is out of its grove something like that. I don't think the jetting will do that over flow thing. Don over and out>>>> carb are cool. no matter what Atkins says.

 

You are correct. Jetting won't flood the carb , but it is a good time to mention that , while he has it apart. I'm thinking you have a booger in the float seat. One other thing I might mention is to make sure the tank vent is not plugged for any reason..

 

Got a shop manual? Your float is set too high. Pull the carb, take the bowl off, turn the carb upside down & adjust the float. The other possibility is that you have some trash in the needle valve that allows fuel into the bowl when the float drops. Depends on how clean your work area was........

 

Where is the tank vent? I'll check that, but it was running ok before I took the carb off. As far at the float set to high, I never adjusted the float when I changed the needles, emulsion tube, jets, etc.. so that shouldn't have moved, right?
No, I don't have a shop manual but I will by tomorrow. How would I check for trash in the float valve? I've had the needle out several times now and the jets, and the emulsion tube, as well as checked the slide for vac and hiss noise. Something somehow in the float makes since, is there anything on line to show how to disassembly it that I can get into tonight?
Pulled the plugs they are black, (rich). I'll get a new set of those tomorrow too.
I wish that dang youtube would get something really useful like how to rebuild a cv on it. haha.
Thanks guys and if anybody else agrees, disagrees or otherwise. I'm going to pull the dynojet stuff out tonight and go back to the stock parts with 190 main and 45 slow, stock needle, emulsion tube, and slide that hasn't been drilled. Maybe I can see something in that float area while I'm in it again.
All help is appreciated.
Mike

 

I've put together a lot of those carbs and I have to agree on the float issue. My guess is, when you took it to the shop they, (the mechanic), just flipped the carb over after removing the float bowl cover, (bottom of the carb). If one does that, the tang can be compressed which will result in more fuel in the bowl. Also check the interior walls of the needle seats. If they are scratched, like in when the needle was pushed, dropped, slid in place, the scratch will allow extra fuel to pass by. While you're at it, check to see the needles themselves aren't blunted and not seating.