Cam Chain Tensioners!!!
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 208
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
If you watch it long enough you are hypnotized! Especially if you were a bottle baby.
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 208
Likes: 0
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Well I had another wrinkle I did not mention. I was thinking about new cams and pipes. They told me a had a SERT installed (I did not know this and neither did the salesperson) and I would need connectors to make adjustments on the dyno. They are "married" to the VIN of the bike on the first dyno run. The previous owner did not choose to include them so I was looking at having to buy a new SERT if I wanted to make changes or ANY other changes to the motor in the future. I chose just to do the hydraulic tensioner.
The story does have a happy ending; they did find the previous owner and after this much time he still had the SERT connectors so I have them now!!!!! I guess I was lucky.
The story does have a happy ending; they did find the previous owner and after this much time he still had the SERT connectors so I have them now!!!!! I guess I was lucky.
Don't hold your breath for a recall, but I think you made the right decision if you plan on keeping the bike for the long-term. I had my cam-plate out on my '07 recently to upgrade cams to SE255's and at 25k the tensioners showed only some minor wear marks. I'd have to say that <5% of the material was worn on either one and I obviously didn't replace them, so my guess is that the problem is fixed.
As for wear on early TC's, I see no consistency from bike to bike. I've seen some go out at 20k and one friend had his checked for the first time at 70k, only after I nagged him to death with warnings of impending doom, which in his case was in the nick of time. I believe wear is a matter of quality control on the tensioner material more than any other factor, as the type or brand of oil doesn't seem to matter.
I second the idea of changing cams while you're in there, as that should add only a small amount of time to the job and cost very little more than the cost of the cams. Also, pull the old INA inner bearings and install some Timkins (B-148), <$15 for the bearings and maybe 10 min. of shop time. Yes, you'll have to buy a tuner, but a dyno tune is only required for some tuning options.
As for wear on early TC's, I see no consistency from bike to bike. I've seen some go out at 20k and one friend had his checked for the first time at 70k, only after I nagged him to death with warnings of impending doom, which in his case was in the nick of time. I believe wear is a matter of quality control on the tensioner material more than any other factor, as the type or brand of oil doesn't seem to matter.
I second the idea of changing cams while you're in there, as that should add only a small amount of time to the job and cost very little more than the cost of the cams. Also, pull the old INA inner bearings and install some Timkins (B-148), <$15 for the bearings and maybe 10 min. of shop time. Yes, you'll have to buy a tuner, but a dyno tune is only required for some tuning options.
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 61
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From: Plano, TX
I had mine checked at the 30K service and the tech told me they were in great shape. I made the service writer document what the tech said, so if they fail I may have some recourse with the dealer...yeah right
stacy
stacy
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Why would "lugging" have an effect on the tensioners? I can see where aggressive operation would cause RPM's to stay higher on average, and that would make a difference.
I was told the same thing by mechanic whom I trust. Nothing makes logical sense with the cam chain tensioners. That is the problem with them.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 120
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From: Maple Valley, WA.
Go with the Hydrolic tensioners. They will last much longer than the spring. I just replaced spring loaded tensioners on a friends 05 RG w/ 30K miles. The pad was worn completely thru on the inner tensioner. You don't need geared cams unless you plan on doing extreme engine mods which it does not sound like you are going to do. Even the inner bearings are fine unless you plan on high HP upgrades. The crank is not going to flex with a "stock" set up. Best of luck. $800 seems very high for the amount of work required.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Louisville, KY
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 404
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From: Athens, Georgia
When I went into my engine to do the re-build (gear drive, cams, etc.) my outside guide looked great but the inner was in pieces, parts had gone thru the oil pump, had to replace, clean out the engine completely (I hope). They both had been replaced less that 20K miles before the rebuild. The way they come from the factory is "junk", after seeing what happens when they wear thru I could never trust the stock set-up again. I was lucky enough to have a crank within run-out limits, my gear drive is not much louder than stock.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 208
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
I went with the hydraulic ones. I bet there was more money tacked on the parts price since I was sticking them with the labor cost. I bet the labor cost is a set amount for the job performed.
Go with the Hydrolic tensioners. They will last much longer than the spring. I just replaced spring loaded tensioners on a friends 05 RG w/ 30K miles. The pad was worn completely thru on the inner tensioner. You don't need geared cams unless you plan on doing extreme engine mods which it does not sound like you are going to do. Even the inner bearings are fine unless you plan on high HP upgrades. The crank is not going to flex with a "stock" set up. Best of luck. $800 seems very high for the amount of work required.