883 cuts off after a short ride then it won't start up again until I turned the key switch off then back on. It's like it just dies while I'm running. I have put a spark plug tester on it after it cuts off. There is no fire to the plugs. Once, I turned of the key switch then back on the bike will fire up.I was wondering if maybe the TSM switch was heating up or something,

 

Intermittent problems are the hardest kind to diagnose. Definately sounds electrical. Check as many connectors as you can, particularly at the coil. Switch the coil out if you have another. Sometimes they can work cold and fail when hot.

Good luck.

 

It's the switch.

 

I only have one key. I had the coil checked by the dealership. They said that it wasn't breaking down. They had it for a couple of weeks and couldn't get it to cut off. Brought it home and it cut off as soon as I pulled into the driveway. About a 5 mile ride.

 

If you can, take the switch apart and connect the wires in the run position and see if it acts the same way.

 

DO THIS FIRST: Have you checked for trouble codes on the speedometer self-diagnostics? 2003 is more limited than the DTC's on the "newer" bikes but may tell you what is going on esp. if it's killing the engine! If it is not throwing a scanylizer code (on the d01, d02, etc), then it should not be a component problem but a connection/wiring problem. POST AGAIN IF THERE'S A CODE OR NOT! Then: Everything so far is true so no one is wrong! If turn signals work when this problem occurs, the TSM & circuit is good (signal will either not work or blink erratically, spastically if FUBAR) and the problem lies elsewhere. By all means check the RUN/STOP switch in the right control: switch is an OPEN-CLOSE so RUN will show OFL or OPEN on the DVOM and STOP is zero resistance (it "grounds" the coil so no spark when set to STOP). Look for broken or mushy insulation. Or with key on, should read 12 VDC at switch: if not problem lies elsewhere. Could even be a bad system relay [a trouble code]! If that doesn't help, here's a few T/S checks from notes I used at MMI for when it happens again:

XL IGNITION TESTS: INTEGRATED V-FIRE III
DVOM=multimeter

*If “engine cranks but does not start”, check module connection at under crankcase and perform test #7: LED Flash. Check ignition coil hook-ups.

1. BATTERY VOLTAGE WITH KEY ON___________VDC (LOADED BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DVOM LEADS TO BATTERY TERMINALS RECORD VALUE

2. POWER TO COIL________VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
REMOVE W/BLK WIRE TO RIGHT-SIDE OF COIL RED LEAD TO W/BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3. POWER FROM COIL_______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
RED LEAD TO PINK WIRE TO LEFT-SIDE OF COIL BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

3A. COIL/WIRE RESISTANCE: PRIMARY 2.5-3.1 OHMS
SECONDARY 10,000-12,500 OHMS
SPARK WIRES=250-583 OHMS per inch
*The primary is checked acroos the W/BLK and Pink coil connections
The secondary is checked across the spark plug ports.

4. FLASH TEST: SPARK? YES NO
USING COIL TESTER BLK ALIGATOR TO PINK COIL WIRE O/W ALLIGATOR TO GROUND TOUCH ORANGE PROBE TO BLACK ALLIGATOR OBSERVE SPARK
*Need spark tester special tool as described in Section 8 of the service manual.

5. POWER TO MODULE______VDC (BATTERY VOLTAGE)
DISCONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE UNDER CRANKCASE REMOVE FEMALE-SIDE ORANGE PLUG RETAINER RED LEAD TO W/BLK FEMALE CONNECTOR BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

6. MODULE GROUND_______OHMS (CONTINUITY)
RED LEAD TO BLK WIRE BLK LEAD TO GROUND RECORD VALUE

7. LED FLASH TEST: FLASHING? YES NO
RE-CONNECT DEUTCH PLUG TO MODULE WITH RUNNING BIKE, OBSERVE RED LED FLASHING ON MODULE

[don't you love electrical problems? good luck!]

 

rode yesterday and the bike never cut off, but the turn signals were cutting off at strange times, and the 4 way flashes can on by them self. Ran the code test everything showed CLR.

 

2003 uses scanylizer codes and not DTC and doesn't diagnose as well as the newer bikes [had same problem after car wash but "code" didn't show up for water shorting ign]. Does "flashing key" in speedo come on during these occurrances? If so, I would suspect the TSM since the security system is inbred with it or at least something kicking it on [or a conditon such as short or ground which would simulate you hitting the FOB button]. I've been looking at my schematic and I can't say EXACTLY what is going on so I can't recommend running out and buying a new TSM! A good start, check for corrosion at the TSM connection or something in the right control housing.