Do any of you still ride your Pans regularly?
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 499
Likes: 0
From: cambridge, ontario
48pan
hey brother. i had an old linkert carb that was a p.o.s. i tried f'ing with it but gave up. i pulled the carb off my sporty, changed the needles and such and she fired right up. havnt looked back since. it doesnt like the cold mornings though, and i had to make a couple support brackets. if you need the jet sizes ill look it up fer ya.
hey brother. i had an old linkert carb that was a p.o.s. i tried f'ing with it but gave up. i pulled the carb off my sporty, changed the needles and such and she fired right up. havnt looked back since. it doesnt like the cold mornings though, and i had to make a couple support brackets. if you need the jet sizes ill look it up fer ya.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: LAINGSBURG MICHIGAN
Take mine out for short runs(still working out the bugs) Havent managed more than a 160 miles on a run yet. Just gotta get it where I want it far as reliability.
Get some more bucks together and will convert to 12v.
Glen
Get some more bucks together and will convert to 12v.
Glen
Last edited by GJWILEY; Apr 1, 2009 at 04:34 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 46
Likes: 2
From: Roxboro, North Carolina
the '59 ran for the first time, since rebuild.......
Fired the '59 for the first time, last Friday (03Apr09), since it died last August. Man, was it hard to kick over. I don't have the greatest of strength for kicking, since I broke my pelvis in the wreck on my '76. I figured out what the main problem was. Everything is basically stock, with the exception of a few components.
When building for others, I use stock, or replica of stock components. For myself, I tend to search the shelves and use what's available (within reason). My pistons are some NOS ForgedTrue items that I've had since the 70's. Some quick research showed that they are 9:1 compression pistons, unlike the 8:1 of stock.
Had to readjust the points to a bit closer gap, as I left them some loose. No idea why. Excitement in building something of my own, I guess. Fired it again early Saturday morning, to get another heat cycle in, and do some finer tuning to the Linkert. By mid morning, I had 4 heat cycles in, and no more creep to the head bolts. Time for a short ride around the yard, and another up the 2-mile stretch of road in front of the house. Pulled extremely strong, which is a dangerous thing when taking your bike out for the first time in a long spell. Had to resist the urge to roll the throttle.
A note here about the oil. I was using 10W-40 Amsoil, as I wanted to be sure of good circulation in all the tight clearances. By mid afternoon, I had 57 miles and several short trips on the bike. And, three oil changes. I only used 1 quart on the first filling. 2 quarts on the second. And, 3 on the third. Flushing oil, but each drain showed very clean. Filter is doing it's job. I drained the last out Saturday evening and put in 20W-50 Amsoil for the next afternoon, when we got back from Church. I would have used more of the same, but I was out. Possibly the cause of my next problem, Sunday afternoon.
Another note here about the components that I used in the heads. Again, I went digging through the parts on the shelves for valve guides, when assembling the heads. I found only steel guides, left over from the 70's, that were in the correct oversizes that I needed. I don't like steel, as it takes a hone to open them up, and my small one has been out of commission for years. I like cast iron guides, and in a pinch, bronze. I can ream these very easily, and the cast iron have a long life and work well with any valve material. As does bronze, but the life is not as good. I like to leave things together for long periods, so bronze in not the preferred of the two. So, I installed and lapped the steel guides using an old valve stem. Very slow.
Anyway, I'm certain that I didn't warm the engine/oil up enough to get an abundance of flow to the valves. Rear intake stuck open 1 mile from home. If it had been carbon related, it would have unstuck itself in a short time. This one is definitely gauled. So, a quick tow back to the house (wife has no experience in such and almost killed me turning in to the shop) and the bike is back on the stand. You can see the valve head in the spark plug hole.
I won't scrimp on myself anymore. I have new cast iron guides of all sizes either on the shelf, or on the way. Right now, I'm fighting a terrible chest cold and can't get in any shop time. Probably picked it up last week, and compounded the problem riding in the 40 degree temps Saturday morning. Didn't feel a thing until I got back to the shop each time. Hands were numb and eyes were watering. But, a major milestone for the bike, as it will be fired again next week. Think I'll order some more 10W-40. The OEM hydraulics do not like this oil when hot. They tend to collapse. But, run just fine when the oil is cold or heavier. 60W is the recommended weight for them. I have plenty of that. Just not the right time for it. So, the break-in trips will be kept short. More to come.
Jack
When building for others, I use stock, or replica of stock components. For myself, I tend to search the shelves and use what's available (within reason). My pistons are some NOS ForgedTrue items that I've had since the 70's. Some quick research showed that they are 9:1 compression pistons, unlike the 8:1 of stock.
Had to readjust the points to a bit closer gap, as I left them some loose. No idea why. Excitement in building something of my own, I guess. Fired it again early Saturday morning, to get another heat cycle in, and do some finer tuning to the Linkert. By mid morning, I had 4 heat cycles in, and no more creep to the head bolts. Time for a short ride around the yard, and another up the 2-mile stretch of road in front of the house. Pulled extremely strong, which is a dangerous thing when taking your bike out for the first time in a long spell. Had to resist the urge to roll the throttle.
A note here about the oil. I was using 10W-40 Amsoil, as I wanted to be sure of good circulation in all the tight clearances. By mid afternoon, I had 57 miles and several short trips on the bike. And, three oil changes. I only used 1 quart on the first filling. 2 quarts on the second. And, 3 on the third. Flushing oil, but each drain showed very clean. Filter is doing it's job. I drained the last out Saturday evening and put in 20W-50 Amsoil for the next afternoon, when we got back from Church. I would have used more of the same, but I was out. Possibly the cause of my next problem, Sunday afternoon.
Another note here about the components that I used in the heads. Again, I went digging through the parts on the shelves for valve guides, when assembling the heads. I found only steel guides, left over from the 70's, that were in the correct oversizes that I needed. I don't like steel, as it takes a hone to open them up, and my small one has been out of commission for years. I like cast iron guides, and in a pinch, bronze. I can ream these very easily, and the cast iron have a long life and work well with any valve material. As does bronze, but the life is not as good. I like to leave things together for long periods, so bronze in not the preferred of the two. So, I installed and lapped the steel guides using an old valve stem. Very slow.
Anyway, I'm certain that I didn't warm the engine/oil up enough to get an abundance of flow to the valves. Rear intake stuck open 1 mile from home. If it had been carbon related, it would have unstuck itself in a short time. This one is definitely gauled. So, a quick tow back to the house (wife has no experience in such and almost killed me turning in to the shop) and the bike is back on the stand. You can see the valve head in the spark plug hole.
I won't scrimp on myself anymore. I have new cast iron guides of all sizes either on the shelf, or on the way. Right now, I'm fighting a terrible chest cold and can't get in any shop time. Probably picked it up last week, and compounded the problem riding in the 40 degree temps Saturday morning. Didn't feel a thing until I got back to the shop each time. Hands were numb and eyes were watering. But, a major milestone for the bike, as it will be fired again next week. Think I'll order some more 10W-40. The OEM hydraulics do not like this oil when hot. They tend to collapse. But, run just fine when the oil is cold or heavier. 60W is the recommended weight for them. I have plenty of that. Just not the right time for it. So, the break-in trips will be kept short. More to come.
Jack
Fired the '59 for the first time, last Friday (03Apr09), since it died last August. Man, was it hard to kick over. I don't have the greatest of strength for kicking, since I broke my pelvis in the wreck on my '76. I figured out what the main problem was. Everything is basically stock, with the exception of a few components.
Hard to kick over ?? HeHe , bent pushrods make it hard to kick over too , dont ask how I know this ..
When building for others, I use stock, or replica of stock components. For myself, I tend to search the shelves and use what's available (within reason). My pistons are some NOS ForgedTrue items that I've had since the 70's. Some quick research showed that they are 9:1 compression pistons, unlike the 8:1 of stock.
Had to readjust the points to a bit closer gap, as I left them some loose. No idea why. Excitement in building something of my own, I guess. Fired it again early Saturday morning, to get another heat cycle in, and do some finer tuning to the Linkert. By mid morning, I had 4 heat cycles in, and no more creep to the head bolts. Time for a short ride around the yard, and another up the 2-mile stretch of road in front of the house. Pulled extremely strong, which is a dangerous thing when taking your bike out for the first time in a long spell. Had to resist the urge to roll the throttle.
Fine tuning a Linkert 74B is a frustrating process , they can be very finicky
A note here about the oil. I was using 10W-40 Amsoil, as I wanted to be sure of good circulation in all the tight clearances. By mid afternoon, I had 57 miles and several short trips on the bike. And, three oil changes. I only used 1 quart on the first filling. 2 quarts on the second. And, 3 on the third. Flushing oil, but each drain showed very clean. Filter is doing it's job. I drained the last out Saturday evening and put in 20W-50 Amsoil for the next afternoon, when we got back from Church. I would have used more of the same, but I was out. Possibly the cause of my next problem, Sunday afternoon.
Cool , I thought I was the only one still does this
Another note here about the components that I used in the heads. Again, I went digging through the parts on the shelves for valve guides, when assembling the heads. I found only steel guides, left over from the 70's, that were in the correct oversizes that I needed. I don't like steel, as it takes a hone to open them up, and my small one has been out of commission for years. I like cast iron guides, and in a pinch, bronze. I can ream these very easily, and the cast iron have a long life and work well with any valve material. As does bronze, but the life is not as good. I like to leave things together for long periods, so bronze in not the preferred of the two. So, I installed and lapped the steel guides using an old valve stem. Very slow.
Anyway, I'm certain that I didn't warm the engine/oil up enough to get an abundance of flow to the valves. Rear intake stuck open 1 mile from home. If it had been carbon related, it would have unstuck itself in a short time. This one is definitely gauled. So, a quick tow back to the house (wife has no experience in such and almost killed me turning in to the shop) and the bike is back on the stand. You can see the valve head in the spark plug hole.
I won't scrimp on myself anymore. I have new cast iron guides of all sizes either on the shelf, or on the way. Right now, I'm fighting a terrible chest cold and can't get in any shop time. Probably picked it up last week, and compounded the problem riding in the 40 degree temps Saturday morning. Didn't feel a thing until I got back to the shop each time. Hands were numb and eyes were watering. But, a major milestone for the bike, as it will be fired again next week. Think I'll order some more 10W-40. The OEM hydraulics do not like this oil when hot. They tend to collapse. But, run just fine when the oil is cold or heavier. 60W is the recommended weight for them. I have plenty of that. Just not the right time for it. So, the break-in trips will be kept short. More to come.
Jack
Hard to kick over ?? HeHe , bent pushrods make it hard to kick over too , dont ask how I know this ..
When building for others, I use stock, or replica of stock components. For myself, I tend to search the shelves and use what's available (within reason). My pistons are some NOS ForgedTrue items that I've had since the 70's. Some quick research showed that they are 9:1 compression pistons, unlike the 8:1 of stock.
Had to readjust the points to a bit closer gap, as I left them some loose. No idea why. Excitement in building something of my own, I guess. Fired it again early Saturday morning, to get another heat cycle in, and do some finer tuning to the Linkert. By mid morning, I had 4 heat cycles in, and no more creep to the head bolts. Time for a short ride around the yard, and another up the 2-mile stretch of road in front of the house. Pulled extremely strong, which is a dangerous thing when taking your bike out for the first time in a long spell. Had to resist the urge to roll the throttle.
Fine tuning a Linkert 74B is a frustrating process , they can be very finicky
A note here about the oil. I was using 10W-40 Amsoil, as I wanted to be sure of good circulation in all the tight clearances. By mid afternoon, I had 57 miles and several short trips on the bike. And, three oil changes. I only used 1 quart on the first filling. 2 quarts on the second. And, 3 on the third. Flushing oil, but each drain showed very clean. Filter is doing it's job. I drained the last out Saturday evening and put in 20W-50 Amsoil for the next afternoon, when we got back from Church. I would have used more of the same, but I was out. Possibly the cause of my next problem, Sunday afternoon.
Cool , I thought I was the only one still does this
Another note here about the components that I used in the heads. Again, I went digging through the parts on the shelves for valve guides, when assembling the heads. I found only steel guides, left over from the 70's, that were in the correct oversizes that I needed. I don't like steel, as it takes a hone to open them up, and my small one has been out of commission for years. I like cast iron guides, and in a pinch, bronze. I can ream these very easily, and the cast iron have a long life and work well with any valve material. As does bronze, but the life is not as good. I like to leave things together for long periods, so bronze in not the preferred of the two. So, I installed and lapped the steel guides using an old valve stem. Very slow.
Anyway, I'm certain that I didn't warm the engine/oil up enough to get an abundance of flow to the valves. Rear intake stuck open 1 mile from home. If it had been carbon related, it would have unstuck itself in a short time. This one is definitely gauled. So, a quick tow back to the house (wife has no experience in such and almost killed me turning in to the shop) and the bike is back on the stand. You can see the valve head in the spark plug hole.
I won't scrimp on myself anymore. I have new cast iron guides of all sizes either on the shelf, or on the way. Right now, I'm fighting a terrible chest cold and can't get in any shop time. Probably picked it up last week, and compounded the problem riding in the 40 degree temps Saturday morning. Didn't feel a thing until I got back to the shop each time. Hands were numb and eyes were watering. But, a major milestone for the bike, as it will be fired again next week. Think I'll order some more 10W-40. The OEM hydraulics do not like this oil when hot. They tend to collapse. But, run just fine when the oil is cold or heavier. 60W is the recommended weight for them. I have plenty of that. Just not the right time for it. So, the break-in trips will be kept short. More to come.
Jack
But it iz a boatload o fun
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Newby to the Forum
Assuming the snowfall this morning was the last of the winter (ha!), I hope to put my '49 EL on the road at least weekly this riding season. I am in the process of upgrading the front forks/wheel/brake with '02 Fatboy parts. The older I get, the less nerve I have to trust the mechanical brakes.
This is the only motorcycle I have owned and I've had it since I was a young boy in the US Navy in 1982.
Allen
Texas Expatriate
This is the only motorcycle I have owned and I've had it since I was a young boy in the US Navy in 1982.
Allen
Texas Expatriate
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 260
Likes: 3
From: Fort Worth, Texas
48pan
hey brother. i had an old linkert carb that was a p.o.s. i tried f'ing with it but gave up. i pulled the carb off my sporty, changed the needles and such and she fired right up. havnt looked back since. it doesnt like the cold mornings though, and i had to make a couple support brackets. if you need the jet sizes ill look it up fer ya.
03-25-2009 08:24 AMdragpipe
hey brother. i had an old linkert carb that was a p.o.s. i tried f'ing with it but gave up. i pulled the carb off my sporty, changed the needles and such and she fired right up. havnt looked back since. it doesnt like the cold mornings though, and i had to make a couple support brackets. if you need the jet sizes ill look it up fer ya.
03-25-2009 08:24 AMdragpipe
Thanks dragpipe, I appreciate the offer. After fiddling with the Bendix for 2 weeks I took it off and replaced with a S&S super B. I use to run it on there but replaced with Bendix for accel pump, easier starting. Got the carb dialed in and went for a ride. Clutch started slipping about 3 miles down the road and before I could do anything about it I burnt the plates. Thought I had it adjusted correctly, at least where I usually adjusted it. Not so sure now. Can't really find anything that points to smoking them. Hub had a little tight spot sliding the plate up and down. Also had a slight warp to it. Pressure plate wasn't square either. Not sure if it wasn't one of those or misadjusted.
Any ways waiting on parts now. 
Bendix ran great when I had it on until it quit running. Couldn't really pin it down to anything in particular had a adjustable main. Would run and just die all of a sudden. Wait a little while it start back up and run from any where from 15 seconds to 20 minutes. 
I invested in a Super E I've got on the bench right now. Want to keep the stock air cleaner so I'm working on a spacer.
I am in the process of upgrading the front forks/wheel/brake with '02 Fatboy parts. The older I get, the less nerve I have to trust the mechanical brakes.
This is the only motorcycle I have owned and I've had it since I was a young boy in the US Navy in 1982.Yesterday 03:46 PMMoJoWorkin
This is the only motorcycle I have owned and I've had it since I was a young boy in the US Navy in 1982.Yesterday 03:46 PMMoJoWorkin
[QUOTE]major milestone for the bike, as it will be fired again next week.[04-07-2009 08:44 AMJack Hester/QUOTE]
Good luck Jack. Sounds like we're chasing the same gremlins.
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Hello 48 Pan,
The Joe Hunt magneto was on when I purchased the bike and has always worked great. Starting is easy if practiced regularly. The carb is '70s era Mikuni 38mm and the heads are STD pan replacements.
Allen
The Joe Hunt magneto was on when I purchased the bike and has always worked great. Starting is easy if practiced regularly. The carb is '70s era Mikuni 38mm and the heads are STD pan replacements.
Allen
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 260
Likes: 3
From: Fort Worth, Texas
I was running an S&S super B with it. Reason for the hard starting. It's easier now with the points manual advance ignition. 
Sweet looking pan. How's an expatriate Texan end up in Ottawa?
Brrrrrr.
Sweet looking pan. How's an expatriate Texan end up in Ottawa? Brrrrrr.