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Getting more power out of an Evo

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Old Mar 2, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #21  
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Okay --not knowing your skill level here is my answer. For 2 grand I would do heads, cams, lifters, and push rods, carb, and exhaust. Ignition upgrades are like spark plug indexing to me--a waste of my time and money for too little hp gain. Too many times I have had to chase parts for an ignition that has gone out far--far--from home with exotic single fire voodoo magic mushroom parts. We have had to bring it back to stock to get it home because no one has the parts. This only applies if your bottom end is in good shape. If this engine has many miles on it, or is sloppy---you need to spend your dollars bringing it back to like new or upgrade to a new engine. My two cents.[QUOTE=Ridetard;4642408]
Originally Posted by oldairboater
You should post how much you can spend and if you are going to do the work yourself. Without enough information you get answers from on extreme to the other.[/QUOTE



Yes, I plan on doing the work myself. As far as a budget goes, I would spend a couple grand if thats what it takes but on the other have if I can cut that cost in half and still get the extra Torque /Performance that I'm look for then it's a no brainer.


Don't need 120hp but on the other hand when doing 65mph and hit the throttle, I want power NOW!

And anyone reading this that decides to swap out an EVO for a Korean engine, let me know as I will be more then happy to give you a fair price for it.

Thanks for the replys.
 

Last edited by oldairboater; Mar 2, 2009 at 04:09 PM.
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 04:08 PM
  #22  
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A very good answer. I agree with you on Patrick's kits. Simple and guaranteed to make HP.[QUOTE=cowboy1;4642457]
Originally Posted by Ridetard

If you are gonna do the work yourself, you need to check out patricks Racing as they have performance kits for most motors and you can get 100+hp for a couple grand easily...
 
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #23  
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A very good answer. I agree with you on Patrick's kits. Simple and guaranteed to make HP

The only problem I see with this thread and the answers herein is that I got rid of my chopper recently and now I really want to build another evo. All I have left on the bagger is basically a little paint on the fairing so maybe if this economy ever turns I'll build another chopper...nice lil rigid bobber with a bunch o horses, kick start and jockey shift, no front fender, no frills or chrome, just raw F.U. power...
 

Last edited by cowboy1; Mar 2, 2009 at 06:26 PM.
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 06:41 PM
  #24  
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Just checked out Patrick and the only EVO cam they carry seems to be "Cranes". The Andrews cams are available only for TC.

Crane closed its doors last week.

http://www.autoweek.com/article/2009...NEWS/902259979
 
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 07:10 PM
  #25  
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Never would have thought Crane would have to close. Evidently they are planning on restructuring and reopening this month yet. Scary what this economy is doing.
Andrews cams for Evos are available from many sources. I'm sure they're the aftermarket Harley cam kings. jirehcycles.com is usually as cheap as anywhere.
 
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #26  
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You can squeeze a lot of power out of an EVO when it's built right. Everyone has different opinions about what to do to make that power. The link below has many dyno runs with different engine components. I guess the point here is these are real numbers and not opinions. The research is in the numbers and you don't have to guess on the right combination of parts to find out later something isn't working like you expected it to perform.

I have a HD CV carb and it works great, it also has a Wood high flow kit. You may not need to replace your carb and use the $ for other mods. I'm getting TQ in the mid 90's on an 80" EVO, it's reliable and has over 20K on the build.



http://www.woodcarbs.com/dynoruns.htm
 
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 09:10 PM
  #27  
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I used Bob Woods stuff on my 99 Heritage EVO. He recommended the cams and rebuilt the carb after asking about my riding style. Was happy in the extreme with his products and his work on the carb. Bumped the horses to my satisfaction without spending a fortune. Rode the bike for over 40,000 miles after the mods and it was still running like new. The Woods cams are some of the best for usuable horses and torque without going crazy with the build. But that's just my opinion. Call Bob and talk to him about what you want.
 
Old Mar 2, 2009 | 09:47 PM
  #28  
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Make it so it can inhale. S&S E carb with K&N filter work for me.

Make it so it can exhale. Rineharts with baffles work for me. Sounds great, and I don't get pulled over for noise.

Make it so it can get more air/gas in at a time. Changing bumpstick to one with same lift (about), but more duration worked for me, and still idles great. Mine is Andrews EV3 (works with the stock heads and springs) and I'm very happy with it. Ask your shop for recommendation.

Getting a better electronic ignition worked for me. Harley used to sell one.

Make it get good zap. Better coil and plug wires.

Mine is 89 Softail Custom.

These are all fairly reasonable priced changes, and are fairly straightforward.

Don't know about no horseys, but these will keep your reliability.
 

Last edited by Campingout; Mar 2, 2009 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 12:56 PM
  #29  
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Thanks again

You guys are great.
 
Old Mar 3, 2009 | 01:16 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by mp
Actually, if you read the few magazines that actually test for performance, the Evo was just as fast as the current TC96. But we all need more power than stock, and you're on the right track for a noticeable bump in power by changing the cam, exhaust, and air cleaner. If you can still get a Screamin' Eagle air cleaner for an Evo (with a K&N filter), they're as good and as cheap as any if you order from one of the 20% discount dealers. Otherwise, I'd go with the complete air cleaner and filter from K&N. Good slip-on mufflers like Cycle Shack or Kerker or D&D on the stock headers will make nearly as much power with these mods as anything else, and for a better price.
An Andrews EV13 for more low end, or an EV27 for more power above 3000 rpm would be good reliable choices that won't hurt your fuel mileage much, if any. Be sure to toss the OEM inner cam bearing and use a Torrington B-138 instead. New lifters are a must; the OEM in '94 were weak. Some say the newer style Evo lifters from Harley are OK, and less expensive. I used Crane.
Evo heads flow quite well for OEM, so it's not a necessity to do anything to the heads.
If you don't want to spend money on a Mikuni carb, the CV does very well with some modifications. The http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm site covers these very well. In any case, do not use the kits like the Thunder Slide or Dyno- whatever. These make the carb way too rich.
Even with the stock cam, the exhaust, carb and air cleaner improvements will wake up your Evo noticeably; with the cam you'll be smiling enough to have a problem with bugs on your teeth.
One other improvement you might consider for the future; New Progressive fork springs and shocks. Big difference in handling and overall road feel.
Originally Posted by Ridetard
Great answer, was just what I was looking for and about the third person with the same advice. I will not replace an Evo with and Ultima, revtech or even and Elbruto. Im not into K-Mart engines even though I am considered by some to be a RUB(dont know where that came from).

Thanks for the replys.
This is the budget answer imho. Add the Mikuni if $$ isn't an issue. I think they start and run a bit better, but there's nothing wrong with a jetted stocker.

I have a 96 Wide Glide with the CV, V&H exhaust, Screamin' Eagle breather, and the EV27 cam. No head work, stock trans. It added 15 ft lbs torque at 2,300 rpm and you can really feel it. Great running bike.

+1 on changing the cam bearing and lifters.

PS The EV27 adds a nice lope at idle without stealing low end torque in the useful range. It idles nice at 800 rpm, pulls well from low rpm, and really starts kicking in at 2,000.

Don't set the idle too slow on an Evo. They sound sexy but don't oil properly.

PS That setup on an evo will run away from a stage 1 TC88. Evo's are runners.
 

Last edited by JBaker421; Mar 3, 2009 at 01:18 PM.



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