Getting more power out of an Evo
I was thinking a simple cam change and rejet the carb? Maybe change out the exhaust. Last resort will be to have the heads replaced or reworked.
I am looking for another 15 to 20 horsey's and naturally more torque. I dont want a compromise reliability and dont want an obnoxious thundering bone shaker. The simplier the better.
So whats a guy to do? All replys welcome.
Thanks
Set your budget and contact them and they will help you. IMHO and I have done several evo motors, you should at the least do head work, pipes, cam, crane single fire and a mikuni. Patricks will have a pre tuned mikuni for your proposed set up for $450 or so and thats for a polished flat side.
It also depends on what you want to spend. For less than $6,000 or $7,000 you can get a full crate motor with 120+ HP. But for less than $2500 or so you can get close to 95 HP or so.
Pull the stocker and get an aftermarket (pick your size) with a warranty. Bigger you go the more stuff you're gonna have to change out, starter, battery, clutch, etc. I'm not a fan of the Korean engines, so I would go with S&S, Ultima or Patrick. Then if you ever what to go back to stock or sell it put the stock engine back in.
Do some research on what your build will cost then compare this to a whole new bike. You can get a Titan, Ironhorse or Big Dog for pennies on the dollar right now. Might be cheaper in the long haul and you've got a second bike.
For what it cost to get 'decent' snoose outta a stocker, you can pick up a 107, 113, 120, or 127" Ultima El Bruto. Direct bolt in, ready to run. Spend a day on the puter, find the 'best' deal you can on a 6 spd(they're out there for UNDER a grand, easily), pull the guts outta your 5, put in the 6 spd set (NO PAPERWORK), no clearance issues, same final drive, yadda, yadda.
They are NOT bone shakers, nor maintenance headaches. Good smooth reliable POWER. When Larry first started dealing with these, I thought, right, more after market junk. I know of 2 baggers and a few FX styles, running 'round with these, and they RIDE the chit out of 'em. Neary a problem with the power plants. They eat 'tars', but CAN'T have everything.

BUT you can do the carb, exhaust, ign, and head work route, if'n that'll be more in your $$. But again, to get what I'd consider any decent snoosh (beings I was opening it up), gonna have a chunk o' change in it, anywho. Jus' MFUO, tho.
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As for trannies. You get what you pay for. I would not run anything except a baker for anything with decent HP. Burt makes a bullet proof tranny and guarentees them for 5 years. Make sure you have a decent clutch as well. You can use the stocker primary if you like and if not, I have an S&S billet primary for sale with a good clutch.
I can't say this enough STAY AWAY FROM REVTECH AND BE CAUTIOUS WITH ULTIMA. Another guy you can get in touch with is John at scooters performance in Florida. Feel free to tell him that I said to give him a call. He will be happy to answer your questions and let you know the best direction, in his expert opinion, you should go.
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An Andrews EV13 for more low end, or an EV27 for more power above 3000 rpm would be good reliable choices that won't hurt your fuel mileage much, if any. Be sure to toss the OEM inner cam bearing and use a Torrington B-138 instead. New lifters are a must; the OEM in '94 were weak. Some say the newer style Evo lifters from Harley are OK, and less expensive. I used Crane.
Evo heads flow quite well for OEM, so it's not a necessity to do anything to the heads.
If you don't want to spend money on a Mikuni carb, the CV does very well with some modifications. The http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm site covers these very well. In any case, do not use the kits like the Thunder Slide or Dyno- whatever. These make the carb way too rich.
Even with the stock cam, the exhaust, carb and air cleaner improvements will wake up your Evo noticeably; with the cam you'll be smiling enough to have a problem with bugs on your teeth.
One other improvement you might consider for the future; New Progressive fork springs and shocks. Big difference in handling and overall road feel.






