'07 Fork Oil Change
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Po-Dunk Looziana
Bob
I'm changing my fork lowers to chrome myself as outlined in this thread here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/265486-my-diy-chrome-frontend-w-pics.html
After removing the TOP FORK BOLT that is accessible after removing the inner fairing cap, there is a hole there, HOWEVER, it would seem very difficult to be able to pour fork oil into this little hole without making a mess or waiting an hour for it to drain down into the fork tube. The most time consuming part of removing the fork is taking the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender off. After this, it's a breeze. Not hard at all , just time consuming.
I too agree removing the radio is not necessary. The top fork cap bolt is not fastened very tight and easily removed. Just replace the rubber gasket underneath the fork cap bolt as lagniappe.
I'm changing my fork lowers to chrome myself as outlined in this thread here:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/265486-my-diy-chrome-frontend-w-pics.html
After removing the TOP FORK BOLT that is accessible after removing the inner fairing cap, there is a hole there, HOWEVER, it would seem very difficult to be able to pour fork oil into this little hole without making a mess or waiting an hour for it to drain down into the fork tube. The most time consuming part of removing the fork is taking the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender off. After this, it's a breeze. Not hard at all , just time consuming.
I too agree removing the radio is not necessary. The top fork cap bolt is not fastened very tight and easily removed. Just replace the rubber gasket underneath the fork cap bolt as lagniappe.
Thread Starter
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
After removing the TOP FORK BOLT that is accessible after removing the inner fairing cap, there is a hole there, HOWEVER, it would seem very difficult to be able to pour fork oil into this little hole without making a mess or waiting an hour for it to drain down into the fork tube.
The most time consuming part of removing the fork is taking the front wheel, brake calipers, and fender off. After this, it's a breeze. Not hard at all , just time consuming.
The top fork cap bolt is not fastened very tight and easily removed. Just replace the rubber gasket underneath the fork cap bolt as lagniappe.
One last question: Can the fork-tube plug be loosened while still on the bike? If not, how do you secure the fork to remove this plug once the fork is removed from the bike? The manual shows a special vise clamp to secure it. If you can get to it, can it be accessed with a crescent wrench? Someone in another thread said he used a 22mm crow foot, which I don't have, but thought a crescent wrench would work.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,615
Likes: 50
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Darren, I just got this from another forum:
Starting with the 06s, HD got rid of the cartridge fork they had in the left leg, both are connventional now. We simply did what you are suggesting in our shop. You will need to "bounce" the bike a little to insure all oil is drained.
BUT, more importantly... you can't just FILL the forks to capacity in one shot. You need to pour about half the amount in, bounce the front end again, this lets the oil get past the new "damper" they use, then pour the remainder.
I'm going to give this a try, as it can't hurt anything and sounds simple and quick. I may add some fluid (maybe half capacity), bounce the forks, then drain again to make sure most of the old fluid and gunk is out.
Starting with the 06s, HD got rid of the cartridge fork they had in the left leg, both are connventional now. We simply did what you are suggesting in our shop. You will need to "bounce" the bike a little to insure all oil is drained.
BUT, more importantly... you can't just FILL the forks to capacity in one shot. You need to pour about half the amount in, bounce the front end again, this lets the oil get past the new "damper" they use, then pour the remainder.
I'm going to give this a try, as it can't hurt anything and sounds simple and quick. I may add some fluid (maybe half capacity), bounce the forks, then drain again to make sure most of the old fluid and gunk is out.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: Po-Dunk Looziana
Isn't it an o-ring under the top bolt (plug) and a larger one under the fork-tube plug?
One last question: Can the fork-tube plug be loosened while still on the bike? If you can get to it, can it be accessed with a crescent wrench? Someone in another thread said he used a 22mm crow foot, which I don't have, but thought a crescent wrench would work.
I could of taken my forks off, rebuilt the insides, put on the chrome lowers and had the lowers back on the bike in no more than 4 hours had I not had to wait on a part.
If not, how do you secure the fork to remove this plug once the fork is removed from the bike? The manual shows a special vise clamp to secure it.
Last edited by UltraKla$$ic; Aug 13, 2008 at 11:18 AM.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 285
From: Edmond Oklahoma
Shesss, I've been pondering this myself for the last few weeks but now I'm not sure. I'm pretty good with a wrench, but this almost sounds like brain surgery. I didn't find the manual much clearer either.
Beary
Beary
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,294
Likes: 33
From: Po-Dunk Looziana
I'm not kidding, it is EXTREMELY EASY to do. Again, the most time consuming task is taking off the front wheel, brakes and fender without scratching things. It only comes off one way and goes on one way. Idiotproof. Seriously. Absolutely no way would I pay a 5 hour shop fee at $70-$90 bucks an hour to do this job.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
Removing the **** takes no tools except the ignition key. Just push on the tab under the **** with a small finger on your left hand, then rotate the key CCW. The **** will then pop right out. To re-install, just put all the washers/spacers back the way they came off, push in the tab again, and re-insert the **** from the same position you removed it. Rotate the key CW back to OFF, you'll hear a "click," and you're done.
Pilling radio id a PITA but I get it
Last edited by iclick; Aug 13, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
I'm going to try the drain-and-add method--i.e., no wheel, fender, and fork removal--probably tomorrow and will do a quick write-up on this thread. If it doesn't work I'll just remove the freakin' forks.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94119
If so, I have some of these.
Here's something else I ran across. You could use some inner-tube rubber to keep it from scratching the tube, but the straps ought to work. On this one the 1 5/8" maximum size should barely fit the 41mm lower.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94077
Last edited by iclick; Aug 13, 2008 at 11:49 AM.