You need to make sure the throttle cables are not hanging up, are lubed properly and the throttle is closing all the way, and the throttle return spring is OK. If all this checks out:

I'm assuming you have MM EFI. If so:

1. Remove your right saddlebag and side cover.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly
3. Start the bike and make sure it is at normal operating temp.

You Need A Tach For This Part:

4. Adjust the hot idle to 950/1050 rpm.
5. Unplug the temp sensor.

Your bike now thinks it's cold!

6. Set the cold idle to 1500rpm
7. Shut the bike off.
8. Remove the 5 and 15 amp fuses from the fuse block which is on the side you took the cover off of.
9. Plug the cold sensor connector back in.
10. Replace the air cleaner assembly.
11. Wait at least 30 minutes, then replace the 2 fuses
12.Replace the side cover.
13. Replace the saddlebag.

When you restart your bike, the ECM should remember the new idle settings you did .
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A different way of doing the above mentioned that I found if you have no luck with setting it...

This describes a method to set cold and hot idle speed on Magneti-Morelli EFI systems.

First, when it comes to setting cold idle, the service manual leads you down a path of frustration. This is a very simple and effective way of adjusting it. If you start the engine stone cold and it idles below 1200 rpm (after it stabilizes) then turn the cold idle screw (in linkage, on the side that rotates with the throttle plates) in. If it's over 1300 rpm, then turn the screw out (therefore, set cold idle speed at 1200 rpm for TC-88's)It's that easy . Also, to guarantee that the idle will be recognized by the ECM, run the bike until it's fully warmed up, turn the hot idle (in the throttle body, forward of the front intake, near the bottom) up to 1200 rpm, shut off the ignition and pull the 5 amp fuse (in the fuse holder on the ECM brackett), run a lead from the cold (relay) side of the 5 amp socket to ground. Let it sit for 15 minutes or longer if practical, then put the fuse back in and warm it back up, turn it back down to 1000. Works like a charm.

The Magnetti Morelli was used on baggers from 96-01 never on Softails. The Delphi is used on the Softails and all '02 and later baggers.

 

Multiple threads here on the forum speak to the issue of MM EFI dual fuel line leaks. This particular type of hose connection is found on the EFI models from 1995 through 1999. Later model years use a different type of connection at the tank and are not as prone to fuel line leaks. The later MM model years prior to the Harley Delphi EFI system conversion are repairable with replacement o-rings. The pre-00 MM model years are not.

Like many others, I have experienced fuel leaks and the only real fix is to replace the entire line at a cost of something close to $200...each. These stock lines have a captive fitting inside the tank nut and once assembled, cannot be repaired. I have put together two fixes for this problem short of purchasing new hoses. I have pictures of two versions of this fix posted here. One is an Emergency Fix that can be affected along the roadside and the other, which I call the AN Fitting Fix is more permanent in nature.

The pictures attached explain each fix. It simply involves modification of the existing tank fitting nut to accept a 1/8 x 27 NPT short elbow and either a 5/16 x 1/8 NPTM hose barb for the Emergency Fix, or a -4 x 1/8 NPTM adapter fitting for the AN Fitting Fix. I prefer the AN Fitting Fix and the AN (JIC) -4 fitting can be clamped onto the hose end as opposed to professional crimping if desired. The AN Fitting Fix will result in the hose being practically the same exact length as the stock hose. If one should opt for the Emergency Fix, it would be wise to also include a short section of 5/16 fuel line as well as a 5/16 hose splicing barb along with a few extra clamps in your tool-kit in case you cut the fuel line too short. MM fuel pressure runs around 41 pounds. Worm-gear clamps, standard stepless ear clamps, as well as 5/16 run-of-the-mill rubber hose can handle these pressures.

5/16 hose is actually designed for the use of a -5 AN (JIC) fitting, but the -5 can be rather hard to find and the -4 will work. I know of individuals that are running these fixes as permanent repairs. The line connections on the tank now are simply painted or powder-coated black and you can opt to use expensive stainless steel fittings, or simply paint steel or brass fittings to match.

Outside of the purchase of a new $200 hose, plus the labor to install it, I think this is your best shot. This repair does not require the removal of the tank and can be done in any motel parking lot, service station, or along the roadside in a tight.

The other option is to purchase a set of Goodridge HDFL005 fuel lines at less than 40% of the cost for both stock lines. The Goodridge lines have replaceable o-rings at the tank connection. I am not advertising for any particular manufacturer, I just don't know of any other company that produces an alternate fuel line. I would also pack a complete set of the correct size o-rings for the fuel rail end as well as the tank nut banjo end. The fuel rail end takes the same o-ring as the HD part number The tank banjo end does not and I will be happy to help anyone with part numbers and sizes for any spares they wish to carry, as well as the circlips that can be easily lost....especially in the dark.

As time passes and these MM systems become more aged, dealers will be prone to drop replacement parts for the older bikes. I already know of one particular dealer that does not carry parts for any bike over 10 years in age now. If you own one of these earlier 95-99 MM EFI models....NOW is the time to figure out how you may have to solve this problem in a broken-down situation along the roadside...or even worse out in the middle of the desert.

I will post pictures of each fix and will be most happy to help anyone that wishes to pack a set of these fixes, or have a leaky line in need of service now.